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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 28, 2016 - 12:04pm PT
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The Ribbon Falls Amphitheater holds some desirable free climbs.
Werner Braun, talking about Thin Line:
When we did that new route in the Ribbon Falls amphitheater to the top,(what's it called?). Anyways ....
I lead my pitch to a nice ledge and look at the next pitch while belaying coz up and just freak at what I see. No protection for 35 some feet off that ledge with bone shattering results if your mind is thinking Kansas.
I'm glad it's not my lead as I would have bailed. I'm scared sh'itless belaying coz as he goes for it on those hard sequential moves.
From: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=568523&msg=568596#msg568596
Scott Cosgrove's annotations:
Note the changes Scott made at the bottom right, he re-rated the 11c flair "Coz 10d" ...
*Hey Werner, which section on the topo relates to your quote?
Four challenging Yosemite routes with Cosgrove annotated topos
The Affliction, Higher Cathedral Rock
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2788402/THE-AFFLICTION-FA-Walt-Shipley-Scott-Cosgrove-July-1990
Powerpoint, Higher Cathedral Rock
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2789272/POWERPOINT-FA-Werner-Braun-Scott-Cosgrove-April-1986
Ribbon Candy, Ribbon Falls Area
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2788451/RIBBON-CANDY-FA-Johnny-Woodward-Scott-Cosgrove-May-1988
Return to the Stone Age, Bridalveil Falls Area
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2623375/Return-to-the-Stone-Age
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 28, 2016 - 12:53pm PT
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11c flare, poor pro. 10d stem, no pro.
And a nice long approach to boot!
Really busting out the gems today eh TarMan?
Always wanted to go up there. (Not for that route)
Still haven't made it, after gazing at it from El Cap so many times....
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 28, 2016 - 01:17pm PT
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I would also like to know if Werner has other recollections of this route.
WERNER!! BUST OUT SOME MORE TALES!!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Mar 28, 2016 - 02:31pm PT
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hey there say, tarbuster... say, wow, now this is special, :)
thanks for sharing some neat climbing stuff... stuff, of COURSE, that i won't
understand, but AM in awe of, :))
say, hope you are doing well and good, as far as is possible!
and sending my best wishes to you, and family, :)
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Mar 29, 2016 - 07:09am PT
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....bump....
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 29, 2016 - 07:32am PT
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Great threads Tarbuster. I am pretty sure I was able to scope the line of this one from Gates of Delirium (another great climb in the area). Looked like a nice clean corner system they took.
Survival, did you change your photo as a call back for Werner? Did you guys figure out why he has left the site or was he deleted?! I try to pay less attention to the forum as a whole, so have no idea what happened. He was sure nice to have on here.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 29, 2016 - 07:56am PT
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That run out pitch off the ledge you need huge balls to lead.
It says 10 feet I think it was a few feet more.
If you fall there before getting pro in you will be TOAST.
You will hit the ledge and then it will be the serious house of pain ......
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Toast? Serious house of pain? No no no no.
I'm past that point in my career. Actually, I will still take that risk, but on easier ground, where I'm not as likely to crater. Me like pro...
V Man, yes, the smoking duck was to call back Werner. As you can see, the King Curmudgeon has returned. You should also see a new pic for me, on a peak above Death Valley.
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bob
climber
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Tarbuster thank you for all the fun posts! I really enjoy that kind of stuff.
I have been on a couple of the routes mentioned, at least partially. ;). First pitch of Thin Line, and first couple of Return to the Stone Age. Did not have a proper rack for that tedious feeling route! Puckered. Brass and offset cams needed for a mortal like me.
One other Cosgrove/Ship route that's a bit nuts is Min Ne Ah to the right of Yosemite Point Buttress.
Here is a write up of that experience that maybe some folks enjoying your threads here will appreciate.
Unfortunately, Mr Cosgrove wrote some great responses, but they have been deleted. :(. That's really too bad.
Again, great stuff you're posting Tarbuster.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/757337/Min-Ne-Ah-Small-big-wall-for-some-big-free-climb-for-others?utm-source=web&utm-medium=twitter
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2016 - 08:53am PT
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Now we are really getting somewhere!
This is great to hear, Bob, that you have had some experience with Return to the Stone Age.
I don't remember you mentioning that on the namesake thread for that route.
What you described, things being tedious with protection, totally echoes what Scott told me about the climb.
And yes, I love your account of that Min Ne Ah Shipley/Cosgrove Show to the right of YPB!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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I love how some threads track backwards, and sometimes splinter into tributaries. As though we are moving upstream, toward the headwaters....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2016 - 03:32pm PT
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Me too, Bruce.
It's part of the fun of reverse engineering, and filling in the gaps of the timeline of someone's life.
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