PT DUME

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justthemaid

climber

Jim Henson's Basement

Jan 20, 2016 - 06:30am PT

It's actually a State Park if I remember correctly. I'll make a phone call to the park today to ask them what's going on with the access and for a direct contact for the climbing community. This whole thread is based on a second hand post from another website. I'd like to make sure it's factual before dragging Access Fund into it.

Edit to update: Total PIA getting a district ranger on the phone. Spent all morning getting referred to no answer phone #s, and full mailboxes. Talked to some contacts at the Santa Monica Visitors Center (who didn't have a clue) and sent off a couple emails to the Park Service (wrong agency but maybe they can hook me up or get some info.)

The only reference I can find to this issue on the entire internet is that single post on SoCal Climbers. Guy says he's already contacted Access Fund.

Guess we wait to hear back from someone.

clinker

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, California

Jan 20, 2016 - 06:51am PT

I was friends with your girl... not you.

This is why a morning click onto ST is so worth the while.
:)

justthemaid

climber

Jim Henson's Basement

Jan 20, 2016 - 09:57am PT

Got a Response from the park service just now: here's the scoop. I'll phone the guy now to ask permission to replace the anchors.

Your email to our Sacramento Communications Office on Point Dume Access Issue was forwarded to me for a response. There isn’t a formal ban on climbing at Point Dume. Yesterday I was made aware of the removal of the top-rope anchors and the closing of unauthorized use trails had occurred. I made an immediate inquiry into this matter and discovered that over this past weekend there was a State Park sponsored Point Dume Volunteer Work Day in which approximately twenty volunteers lead by State Parks staff repaired and brushed system trails, repaired rusted or missing fencing, and added signage to prevent off trail use with the intent to protect the extremely fragile coastal environment. Unfortunately, the over-zealous volunteers and uninformed staff took it upon themselves to remove what they deemed to be tripping hazards. While the anchors are not maintained by State Parks nor condoned it was never managements intention to remove any existing anchors or bolts or actively prohibit climbing activities from the Point Dume.
This issue has been addressed with the employee in question to ensure this sort of action does not occur again. If you have any questions or additional concerns please do not hesitate to contact me.

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Jan 20, 2016 - 10:01am PT

what they deemed to be tripping hazards.

What were they doing on top of the rock wearing Birckenstocks?

StahlBro

Trad climber

San Diego, CA

Jan 20, 2016 - 10:14am PT

Good work JtM.

It is a fun place. We were there a few years back soloing the arete and ran into Captian Kirk (William Shatner). He was there with a crew practicing for his "climbing scenes" in the up coming Star Trek movie. We talked to him for a bit, and he seemed like a good guy was pretty funny.

Sam E

Boulder climber

Malibu

Jan 20, 2016 - 10:35am PT

Thanks for the info Skip. The Ocean side anchors were chopped some time ago. I can only speculate it was to try and deter the "Look at me" rappelling antics of a certain euro. All the rusted lead bolts on the beach side and the ocean side remain. Although as Skip noted, most are smashed from the first Good Samaritan. That beach is packed every summer and no amount of Closed signs and piled of brush will stop a group of adventurous teens from the summit.

overwatch

climber

Jan 20, 2016 - 10:35am PT

apparently they were the ones that were tripping

justthemaid

climber

Jim Henson's Basement

Jan 20, 2016 - 10:48am PT

Thanks for the pictures Sam. It helps with the replacement discussion. It's a "delicate" subject. Anyone who needs more specifics can PM me.

The Splinter trails and cut-throughs - some of which were created by climbers- are the issue they were trying to correct. The area is a preserve and the plants and wildlife are fragile, so please respect any trails they have blocked.

Is there still a main access trail that isn't "closed"?

Edit- LOL- I know the Euro you speak of.

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Jan 20, 2016 - 11:21am PT

Thanks for the good work, Skip.

John

guyman

Social climber

Moorpark, CA.

Jan 20, 2016 - 01:13pm PT

Guy says he's already contacted Access Fund.

Hi, JTM.... thank you for getting on this one, in a meaningful way. So it seems to me if they really don't want a trip and fall incident the best thing to do is put the anchors over side and down some, then one must lead the climbs before a Top Rope can be set. And this way climbers would not need to walk around on the top. We could make this a win win and replace all the old bolts with good long lasting bolts and all the climbs could be sport climbs, only no rappelling.... IMHO a good thing.

and by the way.... I have never contacted the AF.

Escopeta

Trad climber

Idaho

Jan 20, 2016 - 01:19pm PT

I think it was short for "the guy" (who first reported it on SoCal Climbers. Not "the Guy" (notice capitalization). Ha

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2016 - 01:22pm PT

[Click to View YouTube Video]

NIce WORK JTM.. as you work foreman i'll give you credit..

GUYMAN you cant take the rappelling out of it!
LOTS of search and rescue guys are all the time rapping that thing..

sam thanks for the pic's I went up there today after surfing ZUMA..
these rangers are INSANE..

G_Gnome

Trad climber

Cali

Jan 20, 2016 - 01:37pm PT

Sewelly, Pyro is not little Jeff, nor is anyone else on this thread. Little Jeff is Jafer on ST.

Part of the problem is that Pyro's wife also posts under his account and is nastier than Pyro himself so read anything posted under his name with that in mind.

overwatch

climber

Jan 20, 2016 - 02:03pm PT

Do they both worship Medusa?

Fat Dad

Trad climber

Los Angeles, CA

Jan 20, 2016 - 03:14pm PT

Trip and fall risk? If that's their rationale then why not close the area completely. I suppose they just happened to have a hammer, crow bar and hacksaw for unanticipated trip and fall possibilities? Sounds pretty suspect to me.

Tom

Big Wall climber

San Luis Obispo CA

Jan 20, 2016 - 04:23pm PT

How is a bolt anchor at the brink of a precipice a "tripping hazard"? People shouldn't be walking that close to the edge, at all. A shrub, a round stone or a squirrel hole would all be equally dangerous, maybe even more dangerous. And, even more obvious, people scaling the upper region of the cliff have more to worry about than "tripping" over TR anchors on the face.

Note to whomever replaces those bolts: Pt. Dume is exactly the type of place where 304 stainless steel bolts are unsuitable. Titanium and glue, baby.

SuperTopo topic: 304 stainless steel bolts near the ocean

SuperTopo topic: using silicone sealant to inhibit corrosion of bolts

I used to hammer two 1/2" galvanized sch 40 steel pipes into the top of seaside cliffs, to form an X for TR and rappel slings. Now THAT is a tripping hazard. But, again, anyone walking one or two feet from the sharp edge of a tall cliff is at risk of tripping and falling, anyway. Maybe the thing to do is hammer 2" sch 40 pipes into the ground for TR/rap anchors, and leave three feet sticking up, for a big WARNING sign. Or make a continuous railing out of the same stuff.

I bet those safety-minded Pt. Dume locals would love that.

One of those chopped bolts looks like someone cut it off with an angle grinder. That same type of portable cutting machine could be used to remove illegally-placed locks and chains on gates that prevent use of public access walkways at Malibu-area beaches.

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2016 - 04:25pm PT

Picture taken for U TOM..

I'll find the YOUTUBE video of the Making of the PLANET OF THE APES..

Tom

Big Wall climber

San Luis Obispo CA

Jan 20, 2016 - 04:31pm PT

Thanks, Pyro, but I already have an entire box-set of blu-ray diskettes, and one of them tells the tale of those Damn Dirty Apes.

I remember going to Pt. Dume Zuma, and seeing where the "archeology cave" scenes were shot. Planet of the Apes was the coolest when I was a kid. The Star Wars of its day, with Barbie-sized monkey dolls and everything.

I think Moses was better than Marky Mark, when dealing with the Monkey Men.

pyro

Big Wall climber

Calabasas

Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2016 - 06:24pm PT

Mynor H. Sosa thank's

Response from California State Parks: Mr. Sosa,

From So Cal Facebook Page.. Jeez!
lol..

Your email to our Sacramento Communications Office on Point Dume Access was forwarded to me for a response. It wasn’t until receipt of your email that the Angeles District-State Parks was made aware of the removal of the top-rope anchors and the closing of unauthorized use trails had occurred. I made an immediate inquiry into this matter and discovered that over this past weekend there was a State Park sponsored Point Dume Volunteer Work Day in which approximately twenty volunteers lead by State Parks staff repaired and brushed system trails, repaired rusted or missing fencing, and added signage to prevent off trail use with the intent to protect the extremely fragile coastal environment. Unfortunately, the over-zealous volunteers and uninformed staff took it upon themselves to remove what they deemed to be tripping hazards. While the anchors are not maintained by State Parks nor condoned it was never managements intention to remove any existing anchors or bolts or actively prohibit climbing activities from the Point Dume.
This issue has been addressed with the employee in question to ensure this sort of action does not occur again. If you have any questions or additional concerns please do not hesitate to contact me.

Craig Sap
District Superintendent
Angeles District
1925 Las Virgenes
Calabasas, CA. 91302
(818) 880-0396 Office
(310) 699-1732 Cell
(818) 880-0359 FAX

So put Em back!