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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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Fantastic idea,,although theres way more than 50 most crowded climbs ,yes we will all share,,starting with one per area ,seems good,so also the americas,or western hem.also,,mixed could work but with this crowd ,rock primarily,,probably over a few pitches,,thinning out some sporty spots,,still the dessert has enough to go around,,,tetons are a pile of chos compared to the winds,,then theres the buggaboos,,on and on ,,seems like I say great idea,great place to start,,
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Somebody needs to do a 50 Classic Boulder Problems of North America book. I'd hit that.
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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Posting here is probably a waste of time, but I'd update it to be 50 classic and rewarding climbs that an ordinary person on an ordinary budget could reasonably complete in an ordinary lifetime. To me, that means 5.10 at most, with some kind of access by foot or fixed-wing aircraft that's no worse than Waddington. They should also introduce people to a wide variety of areas.
For example, Hummingbird Ridge on Logan is way too logistically complex and expensive for most normal people. And unless you're independently wealthy or getting paid to climb, you're highly unlikely to mount expeditions to all of the "Alaska and Yukon" peaks within your lifetime. One or two of these climbs would give the flavor, but there are too many in the current version.
Also, there's nothing in Montana, the far northern Cascades, or the southwest. I think anyone who loves mountains should visit the Crazies, Beartooths, Pickets, and something like Baboquivari or Cochise if they can.
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SethKane
Ice climber
Bozeman, MT
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Also, there's nothing in Montana, the far northern Cascades, or the southwest. I think anyone who loves mountains should visit the Crazies, Beartooths, Pickets, and something like Baboquivari or Cochise if they can.
What in the Beartooths would qualify as classic though? Even most of the stuff that's really good nobody knows about even in Montana. Cali Ice maybe?
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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What in the Beartooths would qualify as classic though? I don't have enough experience to say. But they seemed unique enough when I was there -- basically, the Canadian Rockies with the ice fields all melted off and better rock underneath. There should be at least one fun, classic line to be found, and it's telling that even most locals don't know about your "really good stuff." "50 Classics" aims for a balance of quality, position, and history. If you could pick one 4th-5.10 alpine rock route, or one WI3-5 ice line, that shows the Beartooths at their best (like Matthes Crest for the Sierra) or was an iconic local climb, what would it be?
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2016 - 08:18pm PT
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Seano, thanks for posting. Very interesting comment.
There have been a ton of thoughtful, fun responses to this thread. Thanks to everybody for their input.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Cochise? Like the Apache chief? Where is that, is it in the southwest?
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Rosamond
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 13, 2016 - 09:22am PT
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Matthes Crest should be on there instead of E.Face Whitney.
Also, Astroman instead of E. Butt Middle Cathedral.
If I remember, the Muldrow route on Denali isn't on there, and it truly is a classic. Anything to reduce the annual traffic jam on the West Buttress.
But frankly, it seems that all that happened to the "50 classics" is that they then became the 50 crowded climbs.
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Rosamond
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Feb 13, 2016 - 09:25am PT
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Oh, and that nice 5.8 route on the west side of Snowpatch spire (the one that goes by surf's up ledge) is WAY nicer than that pigeon spire thing Roper put in there.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Feb 13, 2016 - 10:13am PT
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Here's an addition for K-man's list:
The 50 Schittiest Schitt Climbs in the U.S.....
Just an irreverent thought....
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