Solo Aid for Practice (Opinions Needed)

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climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Nov 29, 2015 - 09:17am PT

Most folks don't do that with the rope. Norwegian seems to like it though. One loop hitched is enough to keep you always backed up. Add a new loop each time before you reach and undo one. On most pitches you can leave the rope flaked at the anchor below.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Nov 29, 2015 - 09:20am PT

Gene- Thanks for the clarification on the two devices. It is the Soloist that I am thinking of.

I have gone fully inverted only once on a big fall on the Central Scrutinizer. I had the presence of mind to cross my arms in flight to make sure that the racks didn't come off. I was very happy to have a partner.

I'M GONNA DIE did flash on the screen that day as I listened to a Forrest Fall Arrest and a Yates Screamer blow up far away on a #3 and #4 RP which was all that I had in to prevent a full 200 foot factor two fall right on the belayer. "Steve, I think I might be getting a little old for this," was his remark once we checked in with each other. Suck it up and get back up there...

Alpamayo

Trad climber

Davis, CA

Nov 29, 2015 - 09:39am PT

The knot/biner just needs to keep the rope from passing through the device. Clipping them back to your harness, however is important for not only backup, but also allows the rope to feed better. If there is too much weight on the rope (ie, too much rope hanging) the device will not feed well, or at all. You need to balance the weight hanging off of each side of the SP to keep it feeding well, and keep backup knots and/or re-belays on the anchor side as needed.

You can tie just a few knots at a time and tie/untie them as you go. It is a trade-off, however, since if the free climbing is difficult enough that you can't tie/untie, this will be difficult. As the climbing becomes more difficult, it is easier IMO to keep more backups clipped to you and just undo them as you get to them, without the need to tie another one. Of course, this also means you are carrying more and more rope with you.

I have hit the backup knot on the soloist. I have not needed it with the SP, not that I fall all that frequently while soloing. I had tried carrying the excess rope in a pack with the Soloist, but have not tried this with the SP (not sure if this would work?). Didn't really like it.

Mad Max

Trad climber

Bakersfield

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2015 - 10:14am PT

Awesome, so I think I'm going to go ahead and get the Silent Partner soon because (A) I'm a big chicken and (B) it seems like a little less fuss to worry about on my harness.

Now I just need to sew up an un-tippable beer holster and I'm golden!

Jim Clipper

climber

from: forests to tree farms

Nov 29, 2015 - 10:16am PT

Does fish sew those?

climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Nov 29, 2015 - 10:18am PT

Now I just need to sew up an un-tippable beer holster and I'm golden!

How will you make sure it doesn't party foul in an upside down fall?

Alpamayo

Trad climber

Davis, CA

Nov 29, 2015 - 10:21am PT

It is definitely not "less fuss"! Compared to knots it is a whole lot more fuss. But if you work out the kinks, it self feeds for free climbing better than anything I've tried. Also keep in mind that while aiding, you'll have your daisies and rope tied into your harness. With a SP plus backup knots in the mix, it gets real crowded in a hurry.

Try checking out Hudon's solo TR's if you want to see a good use of the SP for bigwalls.

RyanD

climber

Nov 29, 2015 - 10:37am PT

Some really cool ideas here.

A grigri has worked well for me in the little experience I have with solo sport poofter aid climbing. If u turn it upside down it feeds a little better and it is easier to get extra rope if needed with one hand if you are free climbing by pulling on the sharp end and holding the grigri cam against your leg. I usually have a backup knot below at some point above the ground.

I use this method to get the rope up on single pitch projects sometimes when I don't have a partner. Then I'll flip the grigri and climb it on tr, pulling rope as needed. It's actually easier to work hard moves in a lot of ways too because you can control the rope so precisely, top rope, etc.

not sure how this would work on a wall or hard aid or if ppl have experience doing this, but to go climbing by yourself with a rope it works good for me and I don't need any extra gear than I would going cragging with friends. Plus you can dial you prahjjjjjkkkttt then go back there with ur buddies and burn them off.

If you are considering aid climbing as a necessary evil due to partner situations maybe consider this first? Bouldering isn't as bad as it looks either.

Mad Max

Trad climber

Bakersfield

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2015 - 10:49am PT

Very true Ryan, I'm considering all approaches to kill boredom this winter. Any tips for bouldering when its 25-45 degrees? (no snow...yet).

Alpamayo, I get all that but it's aid climbing, its gonna be a massive clusterf#ck anyways, so might as well throw in one more doodad for my crotch to contend with.

RyanD

climber

Nov 29, 2015 - 10:57am PT

It's 0 degrees Celsius here and we have been we have been enjoying the finest friction and bouldering conditions probably in North America for the past week. Zero humidity, no sweat or grease

A quick hang board session before heading out and trying not to sit around too much in the cold helps to stay warm. A thermos of tea or coffee or whisky and spliffs or all of those things can potentially extend a session. It's probably my favourite type of climbing tbh. You are on the rock for shorter periods and don't have to belay.