Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Bent knee
Ice climber
VT
|
|
Not sure what you did with your drill. Maybe you over widened, speed wobbles, not a solid hand, maybe you didn't clean it enough and rain settled the dust and the bolt became looser, maybe you put the sleeve together incorrectly, maybe it was a bunk stud, perhaps you need to buy a torque wrench and learn what 12 pounds of pressure feels like, maybe you didn't flatten out around the hanger, maybe you just didn't pay attention to what you were doing. Either way an anchor was incorrectly placed and for this reason on that specific day I became enraged enough to pull the hangers.
|
|
Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
|
|
I still don't really know what else was wrong with it. So the only problem it had was being loose? You had only been here for a year or two and were already enraged about replacements in an area you were so new to?
When I get back I'm going to take a new bolt up there and see how it looks. The stud should still be in the hole so it'll go right in. If I did in fact mess up the anchor in anyway I'll get back to you. I think you're biggest frustration is tha you didn't think it was needed. But it was a replacement and not a retro job so it wasn't really up to you.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
I like to place a few shitty bolts here and there..
You know, keep em on their toes as it were :)
If your name is on it, it better be good, or you are gonna get flamed.
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
ROFLMAFAO
You guys are crying about crappy bolts on literally THE WORST F*#KING ROCK ON THE F*#KING PLANET>>>>
I KNOW! I grew up on that rock...learned how to climb on it..spent more time on it than maybe you guys have. Did 10 laps on Sunshine Butress one morning just for the hell of it. Did A4+ sh#t on it..accidentally free-soloed 5.10 on it..love and hate the hell out of that complete CRAP. Took a gnarly leadfall onto a beak placed by Garvey while he yelled encouragement on some pathetic rediculous crappy 5.11+ FA.
Blow it all up with dynamite for f*#ks sake...hell that is how most of those routes even exist...
R.I.P. Monkey Paws..a rock that the railroad blew to hell because folks were climbing on it next to the railroad..a place Donini climbed with one of my best buds.
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
If someone magically transported the worst cliff in all Yosemite to the Seward highway it would instantly become 10 time better than the best rock you guys have. it would be gridbolted with routes totally unimagineable by Yosemite locals.. and touted as the greatest sport climbs in all of Alaska!
Keep up the good work Kelsey! You may be saving lives..unless of course someone falls and brings the whole damn cliff down anyway... which is not all that unlikely.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
So mean^^^
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
ROFLMAFAO
You guys are crying about crappy bolts on literally THE WORST F*#KING ROCK ON THE F*#KING PLANET>>>>
I KNOW! I grew up on that rock...learned how to climb on it..spent more time on it than maybe you guys have. Did 10 laps on Sunshine Butress one morning just for the hell of it. Did A4+ sh#t on it..accidentally free-soloed 5.10 on it..love and hate the hell out of that complete CRAP. Took a gnarly leadfall onto a beak placed by Garvey while he yelled encouragement on some pathetic rediculous crappy 5.11+ FA.
Blow it all up with dynamite for f*#ks sake...hell that is how most of those routes even exist...
R.I.P. Monkey Paws..a rock that the railroad blew to hell because folks were climbing on it next to the railroad..a place Donini climbed with one of my best buds.
Edit
Dingus Milktoast
Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
Oct 1, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
Well at least lurchingturd stopped not-caring so much for this thread. Her angst was killing me!
DMT
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Oct 1, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
If someone magically transported the worst cliff in all Yosemite to the Seward highway it would instantly become 10 time better than the best rock you guys have. it would be gridbolted with routes totally unimagineable by Yosemite locals.. and touted as the greatest sport climbs in all of Alaska!
Keep up the good work Kelsey! You may be saving lives..unless of course someone falls and brings the whole damn cliff down anyway... which is not all that unlikely.
Edit
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Oct 1, 2015 - 04:52pm PT
So mean^^^
Yeah... but True!
|
|
Bent knee
Ice climber
VT
|
|
Kelsey please take a look and see what you can find.
SunShine Ridge, some of my happiest and most terrifying moments, the scenery on that chunk of rock is just spectacular. I think the most back to back solo runs up I did was 8 in an evening. Climbed it at least once every month of the year for 2 years.
Once had a shotgun leveled at me by a twitchy family thinking I was a bear as I ran down the upper gully. Unknowingly flushed a bear off the point that splits the gully in two into a crowd that was gathered to take photos of it. Going for laps one spring I was on my second top out and thought I saw something brown but brushed it off, on the third lap I found bear prints going down in my tracks, be lined it to Morningstar gully only to find a black bear just below where you would turn off for yellow fever.
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
^^ awesome!
SO many great memories..so much shitty rock.
|
|
Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
|
|
climbski2 - I know what you mean. Everytime I think about how all this could be about a couple of climbs on the seward highway it makes me cringe a bit. But it sounds like I'm in the same boat as you. Its a huge pile of choss and I love it.
I wonder if I'm not giving you a run for your money on the amount of time on the highway though! ....suddenly, I think this may not be a good thing! heh.
Also wasn't it Gorilla Rock that was blown up? We knocked down the Monkeys Foot climb on Twinkle Toes. (see clinker, he kind of wasn't kidding) https://vimeo.com/43881692
I'd love to hear some more about your A4+ and Garvey route! I've done some aid routes on the highway, I'd say probably C2 or C3 at best. on one route I was on an overhanging thin crack with two opposing micro stoppers. Somehow it worked. I wasn't on lead though, I just toproped it from a tree which actually kind of made it more scary since the swing was huge and the fall would only have been about 6 ft.
Oh man this thread definitely needs more Seward Highway love...
But lets be honest. We don't do it for the rock...we do it for the views.
Bent Knee - I'll definitely check it out when I get back. The picture you posted didn't show up, what was it for?
|
|
climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
|
|
Yeah Gorilla rock!...that was the one... at least I remembered it had something to do with Apes.
Some climbs out there have collapsed and gone to dust.. but that one is the only climb I've done that actually got blown up..lol.
Seriously... Donini climbed it too.
Lets see A4...did 2 pitch thin ass solo aid ..hooks, a drilled bathook, beaks..tied blades..spent probably 3 hours on the first 50 feet...on that pullout right before McHugh creek. Just to the right of the nice 5.7 ish multipich crack..oh wait that thing fell off too.
The Garvey one was when he was developing a bunch of routes above the old Iditarod trail above the highway. the place where there was/is? an old cable handrail on the trail.. past sunshine buttress I think.
Ha Garvey..that guy had so much psyche he could push you far beyond what you had any idea you could do..yeah you got it man!.. I can still hear it..
Pics..from some old winter aid from around that deceased 5.7 crack...Cheater stick tryout...
Ballistic wall FA effort..in Eagle river. (its in that little book of FA's at AMH that you borrowed for a bit Kelsey) Why was it called ballistic wall?.. because of all the projectiles that were falling and trying to kill us.
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
Ah....nightfall has descended on the frontier metropolis of Anchorage and all is silent. The bore tide is rolling, unseen, up Turnagin Arm and the Seward Highway choss is getting a respite from the unsightly stains left from sticky rubber and chalk.
Have no fear...a new day is dawning and the slashing sabers of name calling and invective will once again leave their ugly scars.
Gentleman....on your marks!
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
Ballistic wall
Rhymes with killer whale. Nice.
|
|
mike m
Trad climber
black hills
|
|
I have climbed on worse rock.
|
|
Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
|
|
Those are some cool shots for sure! I hadn't seen them before. Would love to see more.
I took pictures of that book and I can't remember where they went! I brought the book back I hope its still there.
I'm not sure which area you're talking about for the aid route. Good Vibes Wall aka I heart B wall? One of Garvey's routes, Ditchweed is there. Its probably the hardest of its grade that I've found.
The area you're probably talking about is Dino Head. Its above the highway and still has the cable railing. That areas actually become pretty good and is a good training area for some harder climbing.
donini, shhhhhh I'm hoping we've turned from the darkside. ;)
|
|
Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
|
|
ROFLMAFAO
You guys are crying about crappy bolts on literally THE WORST F*#KING ROCK ON THE F*#KING PLANET>>>>
I KNOW! I grew up on that rock...learned how to climb on it..spent more time on it than maybe you guys have. Did 10 laps on Sunshine Butress one morning just for the hell of it. Did A4+ sh#t on it..accidentally free-soloed 5.10 on it..love and hate the hell out of that complete CRAP. Took a gnarly leadfall onto a beak placed by Garvey while he yelled encouragement on some pathetic rediculous crappy 5.11+ FA.
Blow it all up with dynamite for f*#ks sake...hell that is how most of those routes even exist...
Priceless.
|
|
Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
|
|
Hazy memory of climbing off the Seward Highway 15 or so years ago. Ran into a couple of friendly locals. What made it memorable wasn't just how chossy it was, but, that a raven was chuckin' stones in a steep gully in an effort to initiate a choss-a-lanche onto us. I guess it was hoping for any easy roadside kill picnic. Too funny.
Bolts work in that rock? Hmmm.
|
|
Larry Nelson
Social climber
|
|
Dino Head is the formation with the cables and super gritty rock.
We used to call the area up from the highway the 2nd tier.
I always hated belaying with 65mph traffic 10 feet behind me.
Edit: My first free solo's were on Sunshine Ridge.
Note: My only free solo's could be called 4th class by some.
Gorilla rock was fun.
|
|
johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2015 - 11:51am PT
|
Anyone been to the base of Lemming Ranch lately?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!