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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Sep 30, 2015 - 09:38pm PT
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I don't believe that the bolt was poorly installed. If it was then we need to talk about it because I don't believe in placing bad bolts. I won't say I'm infallible because I'm not. Also he didn't "chop" anything. He unscrewed a bolt meant to be able to be removed that way.
What else do you think was wrong with the bolt? Was it that it was only loose? That anchor services three climbs. Two are on one face and one is on another face so the anchor can be pulled in different directions. Once again I'm still assuming that we're talking about the same anchor.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 30, 2015 - 10:17pm PT
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If you guys keep advertising the climbing on the Seward Highway you'll find parking difficult to find. The joys of climbing chossy rock in chilly rain whilst Beluga Whales frolic in the sea below will no longer be yours alone.
Given the tenor of this thread....you'll probably tell newcomers that there is great clamming in the mudflats when the tide is out. Then you can enjoy watching them trying to unstick their boots as the bore tide comes rushing in.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2015 - 10:25pm PT
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If you think I was 10 in 1993 then you need to learn how to add... As I've stated before I was climbing at, maybe a little under, that grade when this route went in. If you think this makes me 4 years older then you again learn to count.
Here's a tip... Since you want me to be helpful.
Use your fingers...and toes
If you pull your pants down you'll have 19
You and Kelsey both are pretty good at dodging facts... Like the other half of the FA parties comments. Are you really claiming that I made that up? Same way Kelsey deals with the bad bolts he drilled that others come across. Simply calls whoever points it out a liar. Over and over...
Funny you bring up my hometown... As far as a meca it's a little too far but not by much. With The Cashiers Valley (whitesides, laurel knob) a little over an hour away, looking glass an hour and a half, and the souther edge of the Cumberland Plateau (t-wall, the red, LRC, and so much more) at about a two hour drive it certainly blows away the ANC area in everything climbing related with the obvious exception of mountaineering/alpine climbing.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Sep 30, 2015 - 10:27pm PT
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Donini I don't think anyone would climb long enough on the highway to make it crowded heh. It gets a lot of traffic but it also takes a certain kind of person to return year after year. Although a month ago I was climbing and the belugas were out in force. It was amazing.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Sep 30, 2015 - 10:52pm PT
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No John I don't doubt that you called up Jim and said "Hey these guys put bolts in you're route!" In response I'm sure he probably did say that. Except we didn't and thats been proven. So you're attempt at making others angry at us has just spread your misinformation around.
I don't believe that it was poorly installed. That is true. However, if it was than its important that we talk about it. I'm not hiding away from this. I'm acknowledging that people make mistakes and if I did so than its important to know right away. I have gone back to many routes that I've replaced and climbed on the anchors plenty of times. Most were still tightened down but some had loosened and I tightened them back into place. Its a bolt, not some kind of infallible hardware. I haven't had any bolts that I have retightened loosen back up again. The ASCA sends Powers SS bolts. I believe that these require a somewhat low 10-12lbs of torque to tighten the bolt.
Also, you're going to accuse me of calling someone a liar? Thats been you're basis for this thread. Nearly everyone who has spoken against you has been called a liar. You've almost entirely rejected Rogers comments to this matter. Its over, you've been proved wrong. You really should move on.
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John M
climber
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Sep 30, 2015 - 11:05pm PT
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Let's see... Guy goes and chops some poorly installed ASCA retro junk... Kelsey bitches to him about chopping his poorly retro installed ASCA supplied bolt... Awesome
He ASCA bolts for replacement and his own for his retro jobs...
make up your mind JohnKelley… which is it? both statements are made by you and they conflict..
man this is a confusing dialog.
Did someone shoot the dudes dog or something?
And to think. winter has just started up there. One would think it was now the middle of February.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Sep 30, 2015 - 11:07pm PT
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Had this message forum a long time ago. I kicked him off it for being a jerk because he just couldn't really leave anyone alone. Its sort of continued ever since then.
Yeah, I hope everyone gets some Vitamin D supplements or its going to be a long winter!
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John M
climber
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Sep 30, 2015 - 11:12pm PT
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Prezwood, If I were you I would just stop responding to him.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Sep 30, 2015 - 11:15pm PT
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I think you're right John M and I also think maybe we've finally reached the point in this thread where that works.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 30, 2015 - 11:20pm PT
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Imagine if this dude lived in California.
His autistic ramblings would never end.
Has any 'call out' thread backfired as much as this? From unknown local hardman to consensus wanker in a handful of days. Fascinating.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2015 - 11:20pm PT
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Sorry John M didn't mean to be confusing...
Some guy, I don't know him, comes across some poorly placed ASCA bolts that Kelsey placed so he chops them. Kelsey decides to bitch at the guy for chopping his f*#k up. Then decides to call the guy a liar and claims it never happened.
Kelsey uses ASCA bolts for replacements and his own hardware for his retro jobs.
Is that clearer?
Kelsey your forum took a nose dive and flopped after you booted me.
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John M
climber
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Sep 30, 2015 - 11:39pm PT
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Its not really clearer because you keep complaining about the ASCA giving a retrobolter bolts. But the two don't go together because even you admit he isn't using the ASCA bolts for retrobolting.
Your argument might make more sense if you stuck to whether he was retrobolting or not.
This back and forth he said, she said.. he is a liar, no he is.. is just bullsh#t. It doesn't prove anything. The easiest thing in the world to do is misconstrue someones words. And countries go to war over that kind of nonsense. Thats a sad sad word, because from my seat in this, Prezwood seems like a decent and likable guy. And you seem like you have had some rad adventures. But damn dude.. this calling everyone a liar just makes you look nuts. I doubt pretty seriously that Prezwood is lying about anything. He seems like too standup of a guy. If anything he is too honest, which ends up making mountains out of molehills.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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If you guys keep advertising the climbing on the Seward Highway you'll find parking difficult to find. The joys of climbing chossy rock in chilly rain whilst Beluga Whales frolic in the sea below will no longer be yours alone.
Given the tenor of this thread....you'll probably tell newcomers that there is great clamming in the mudflats when the tide is out. Then you can enjoy watching them trying to unstick their boots as the bore tide comes rushing in.
Classic
Here's a tip... Since you want me to be helpful.
Use your fingers...and toes
If you pull your pants down you'll have 19
Born teacher
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Bent knee
Ice climber
VT
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IMO this was a crap job. IMO a crap job is dangerous, even more so at an area where a person who feels the need to TR is probably not experienced enough to see it as a crap job. IMO an anchor replacement is one place where there should be no mistakes. IMO this was a crap job that was not needed.
As I stated previously, at least one stud was loose and wobbly. So in closing, while you may believe that I made the TR unsafe by removing the anchor, I believe I made it safer by removing a crap job.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Bent knee I'm trying to ascertain what you think was wrong with the anchor besides where it was. You said loose and wobbly. Yes if it was loose it would be wobbly. Was there anything else wrong with the anchor? I'm asking because I really want to know why you think it was a bad job. When I get back to AK I'll go back and check it out.
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franky
Trad climber
Black Hills, SD
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it seems like the community minded climber would tighten a loose nut rather than take the hanger. Although, it might be best to just leave it alone if you aren't familiar with the torque specs for the bolt in question.
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overwatch
climber
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Burch for the wake and bake.
Did anyone actually read that Klein Manifesto?
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franky
Trad climber
Black Hills, SD
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I did it right after i pulled my toenails out with a pliers.
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overwatch
climber
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Good idea, use a greater pain to negate the effect of great pain.
I just stopped reading after he proclaimed he would make no more responses...why bother?
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Chossboss
Trad climber
The GNAR
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Did anyone actually read that Klein Manifesto?
I did, while finishing my drinks from the John Kelley Drinking Game.
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