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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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May 30, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
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In the rock gym we course set by anchoring the climbing rope side to the wall and hang off of the grigri to get up and down. There have been many times where the Grigri just completely failed where you would just sit back and suddenly you were 15 feet down. This usually happens with new ropes in the device. One day I was course setting being coached by two other setters and I leaned back and decked off of a route 15' getting a concussion. The Grigri didn't feel like it was even attached to me. After my hospital visit we started a new gym rule called the Marty knot. When you are 10 feet up on the rope you tie a knot on the rope below the Grigri. This way you might still get the surprise drop, but the knot will stop the Grigri and you will not hit the floor. This happens on the Grigri one device.
However when I am climbing outside I prefer my belayer to be using a Grigri. Now with all the selfies needing to be taken everywhere, nobody is paying attention to your belay. If your belayer is not holding the rope, the Grigri will lock up faster than the ATC. The Grigri is an awesome device!
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Ballo
Trad climber
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...what does the belay device have to do with how heavy you are? Can I belay a 300lb lummox with my butt?
I know four people who have been dropped on a grigri. None of those incidents were belayed using this technique:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Another problem with the grigri is few people who use them ever seem to summit anything.
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couchmaster
climber
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Ballo said: "I know four people who have been dropped on a grigri. None of those incidents were belayed using this technique:"
Really? What technique were each of them using belaying incorrectly with a gri gri if not the "classic" or "New" as detailed in your link?? Please explain so that we can all avoid it.I'm betting you have no personal first hand info despite what you want us to believe via inference.
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couchmaster
climber
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Ballo added: "Another problem with the grigri is few people who use them ever seem to summit anything. "
Haha, he's now calling you out Donini:-) As in summit what? Everest? I was out the other day and tripped over another familiar old dude who a mutual buddy has indicated has done all 7 summits 4 times. You want to know what he was belaying (a rock pitch) with? LOL.
Ballo, really dude? You need to get out of the house more. There is a disturbing problem with Grigris, and I'm not sure what it is, so I'll keep using them.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I don't care what the device is, the person using it is the key. Operator error is a factor in all human endeavors.
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couchmaster
climber
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Yes, when you learned to belay, they emphasized how critical that was. My first belay was a practice lead with a hip belay-catch of a person on an intentional lead fall. I'd practiced it many (many many many) times, but having a persons life in my hands was pretty heavy. Nowadays - folks often hand a grigri to their girlfriend or buddy and start climbing with no instruction. But there was a person who had a rock stick in the Grigri and make it impossible for the device to lock. Could not other problems also be an issue Jim? EVERY Grigri failure had the device absolved? They were ALL human failure? Hmmm.
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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I was in the gym a couple of days ago and walked up to two whippersnappers who were giggling away while one of 'em was tying in. Told 'em to stop talking and focus on tying and checking the knot, just the knot, and absolutely nothing else. Because it would kinda suck to lean back and fall 50' to the floor. They took that advice remarkably well, actually.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Bearbreeder said it all folks.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Operator error is a factor in all human endeavors. Complexity, fatigue, darkness, cold, distraction (wow look at that chick!) increase operator error.
In my opinion the Grigri is too complex. Or put differently, not intuitive enough. An ATC is totally intuitive (and you can still make a mistake with it)
As noted by the Fet there are places where it's a good choice.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Nothing wrong with the device just something wrong with the belayer and subsequently the climber themselves for not climbing with a competent belayer and/or ensuring that they are competent
another thumbs up for Bear breeder as usual
edit to add
When I first started using one I had a correspondence by email with Hans Florine and he assured me that he and all of his friends had been using gri gris for years and swore by them...good enough for mme. I made sure I learned to use it correctly and I believe it is an invaluable tool so many different things you can use it for
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cuvvy
Sport climber
arkansas
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Jul 10, 2016 - 10:06am PT
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That sounds like smart logic. Climber X never had a problem with the grigri. He is famous. He has to be right.
Most important thing to remember and so many out there dont do it, keep your hand on the brake strand! Read the instructions!
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Jul 10, 2016 - 11:10am PT
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Most folks I watch belaying with a Grigri take their hand off at some point while belaying. Most others just give a giant loop of slack. I like the fact that the Grigri in most cases will catch me if I fall but the downside is I feel it makes many belayers lazy. Most people I watch belaying with an ATC or other similar device seem to keep their hand on the rope.
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WBraun
climber
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Jul 10, 2016 - 11:24am PT
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I've use the Grigri 100% since it first came out.
It came from (developed from) the Petzl Stop.
I've used the Petzl Stop since it first came out and wore out 2 of them even though Petzl told me it can't be worn out.
It will wear out after doing thousands of feet of static line work in remote regions
where grit enters the ropes and wears out the materials where the rope travels thru.
I've never dropped anyone.
It's simple device and only takes a little intelligence to operate.
There will always be a class of people who screw up something.
It's guaranteed!
The minute a screw up happens all the drama people arrive with their opinions against it.
It's guaranteed.
All while thousands of uses daily the device works flawlessly when used intelligently ....
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Jul 10, 2016 - 03:11pm PT
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That sounds like smart logic. Climber X never had a problem with the grigri. He is famous. He has to be right.
Most important thing to remember and so many out there dont do it, keep your hand on the brake strand! Read the instructions!
Yeah cubby that would be pretty stupid if that were my only criteria for forming an opinion
Your response lends even more credence to the fact that anything posted here will find opposition from someone willing to twist a statement to fit their agenda and the rest of your statement is just typical smug Super Topo Guy.
I would certainly put much more faith in Hans' opinion then some random Anonymous Topoian named Cubby
vvvvv I have never tried the new version but I have two of the original version still going after years of use
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jul 10, 2016 - 04:16pm PT
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GRI GRI #2 IS JUNK! It had been recalled 2x's, I will never own one. Gri Gri#1 rocks.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Jul 10, 2016 - 04:23pm PT
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Never saw the need to 'upgrade' myself why to save a few ounces Poor widdle tough climber babies can't pack a few more ounces?
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Jul 10, 2016 - 04:49pm PT
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yup pansy peep's can't hack that weight on their backs.
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Hummerchine
Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
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Jul 13, 2016 - 07:06pm PT
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Somebody posted about the CAMP Matik. In theory it's better than the GriGri...in actual use, no way. Great concept but needs a ton of work (I bought one, sold it on eBay). Btw I used to hate GriGris too...and I'm a very experienced climber of nearly 40 years. Took a trip to Kalymnos using the GriGri 2 only and watching the video on Petzl's website a number of times. For me, and other experienced climbers, you master this thing and I truly thing it's safer. For noobs...I agree, probably not.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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belaying a heavier climber: allows a lighter climber to catch a heavier one with much less grip on the brake hand
Let us know!