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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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May 29, 2015 - 02:28pm PT
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I think rope diameter and coating are variables but I have taken multiple falls on device while solo aiding. No hands were on the device or rope for breaking and my device had no modifications.
I almost had a partner drop me once due to user error while lowering. My experience if left alone the device is pretty awesome at doing its job. Biggest dangers are in holding down camming device while playing out slack to a leader and when lowering. In both situations if the belayer freezes and clamps down the rope can flow the through the device unabated and result in an accident.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 29, 2015 - 02:39pm PT
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Took a rock to my face when my climbers foot hold broke off unexpectedly. I held the fall with the ATC but the 'what if' convinced me to get a grigri.
I know all about the "what if" factor. I would certainly have died three years ago if my belayer had not been using a grigri that day.
I pulled off a big block, which hit somewhere below me and exploded into pieces. Tom was as far out of the line of fire as was possible to be on that climb, but one of the pieces, about the size of a standard brick, flew out sideways nailed him square on the kneecap. He's as tough as any of you guys, but he passed out with the shock. Not for very long, but if the grigri hadn't taken over in his brief absence, i'd have cratered from 100 feet up.
A grigri (or its equivalent) isn't the right tool for every job, but you won't hear me badmouthing it.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 29, 2015 - 03:08pm PT
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Belaying someone who weights a lot more than you with an ATC can give you rope burns so in that regard, using a grigri is nice.
Huh, seriously? Rope burns? Man, someone is doing something seriously wrong...
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 29, 2015 - 03:10pm PT
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I've owned and stiil own the grigri 1 and 2. For about 8 or so years the gym I climbed at regularly allowed solo TR with a grigri. Rope is anchored to the floor via bolts. I've literally fallen on the grigri 1000+ times also with no assist from the brake hand and it never let me down. Thats not to say that the cam couldn't possibly somehow get obstructed or held down but in my case it didn't. If you are super worried and the route allowed you could climb up to a ledge or stance and have the belayer tie a back up knot. Then at least you wouldn't deck in a catastrophe. I also agree that in chossy areas the grigri is preferred for obvious safety reasons.
Edit: The gym no longer allows that practice due to insurance liabilities. But they never had a recorded accident either.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 29, 2015 - 03:27pm PT
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Held endless falls over forty one years and never once been burned. Can't imagine...
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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May 29, 2015 - 03:37pm PT
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Issue I ran into was an inexperienced partner lowering me. Got too fast, and, their panic reaction was more lever instead of the counter-intuitive letting go. Corrected prior to splash down, thankfully (60 feet...woulda been fugly for me). Burned their brake hand when they finally got control. All the credit for the final save, but, got me thinkin' about folks using for lowering.
I kinda prefer an ATC for the inexperienced. Easy.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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May 29, 2015 - 04:25pm PT
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Burch you need to keep that hand down while feeding slack bro!
Brian i almost got dropped on an atc. Her hand was even to the device when she started lowering and then got burned and let go. Fortunately i was holding the brake side because i didn't trust her.
Much training and she performed admirably the day previous under supervision.
You never know. That day we went and bought a gri gri, and i made her use it till she understood the forces a 200 pounder like me can generate.
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WBraun
climber
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May 29, 2015 - 04:29pm PT
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Maaannn ....
Another stupid grigri thread.
Americans can't even do simple thing like pull the lever ......
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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May 29, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
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Held endless falls over forty one years and never once been burned. Can't imagine...
How much do you weigh? How much do your climbing partners weigh? How big were the falls? Do you have the grip strength of a 12 year old girl (that is, after all, what the OP is talking about)? I've never been burned using an ATC either, but my partners don't weight twice as much has I do, and I'm not a 12 year old girl (I think).
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DanaB
climber
CT
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May 29, 2015 - 04:58pm PT
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old skool belay devices. Figure 8's, belay plates.
Those are not old school.
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son of stan
Boulder climber
San Jose CA
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May 29, 2015 - 05:01pm PT
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Some experience with the grigri. In those moments of high stress or panic
brain function can collapse to caveman mode. Fight flight or grab and hold
on to the belay rope. All training and experience can become inaccessible
for a brief second. And that's enough to cost someone their life.
Keep it simple. Stay alive.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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May 29, 2015 - 06:24pm PT
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Gri gri concerns?
No.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 29, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
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I'm guessing someone must make a small blue pill which completely alleviates grigri concerns.
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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May 29, 2015 - 08:24pm PT
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All this talk of grip strength and rope burns and no one mentions that a leather glove might be a good idea for a young belayer?
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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May 29, 2015 - 08:41pm PT
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I made my worst mistake belaying while using a Gri-Gri. I managed to thread it in backwards and when My partner sat back to be lowered... SURPRISE!!! he quickly descended about 3 feet before I caught him. Fortunately I am careful about using my break hand properly even with a gri-gri. He was kinda pissed off though... can't blame him.
He should be pissed...at himself! He should have checked you.
I especially love gri gris when someone is going to be hanging a lot.
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matlinb
Trad climber
Fort Collins, CO
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May 29, 2015 - 08:44pm PT
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Dan, Have you considered a device like the Edelrid Jul. It is self locking and from my experience impossible to completely drop someone, like a grigri.
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colin rowe
Trad climber
scotland uk
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May 30, 2015 - 03:51am PT
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I'm planning to do single pitch sport routes in Corsica this year with my child. Because of the discrepancy in our weight I've decided to lead using a Silent Partner and set up a bottom rope system to belay her.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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May 30, 2015 - 10:18am PT
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Excellent post, Bearbreeder!
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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May 30, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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May 29, 2015 - 04:29pm PT
Maaannn ....
Another stupid grigri thread.
Americans can't even do simple thing like pull the lever ......
Actually, ducky, I think the issue is that they DO pull the lever when they shouldn't.
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