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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 18, 2016 - 06:11pm PT
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You seem pretty worked up about this.
I always feel it helps to have a nuanced point of view on these sorts of things - they are never black and white, sorry : / I know it makes it much easier to create a strawman, they are twice as evil and half as difficult to defeat.
I don't know what happened, or whose idea it was, or who was sold what - I've just been a climber for a really long time and had my words mixed up, had things I've said taken out of context and even stretched the truth for someone who was hoping to hear something crazy.
It's no secret that Kevin Jorgenson is hammering the social media and marketing schtick hard as f*#k. It's not my gig, it's not what I like about climbing, but the dude is making money. I sold shitty overpriced mattresses to people that couldn't afford them with bad credit, I'm not gonna hate on the guy TOO much for going after that pie all day because we all sell out in some way.
I'll have to go back into the Eiger story to see what it was that grated you so much and made you very upset. I'm sure, like with all the big sh!t done in Yos, there's fixed ropes and bullshit flying around - I had to climb the Leaning Tower through fixed lines from some yosemite hot shot everyone here adores, I don't harbor hate for the guy I just see it as it is.
Sure the Eiger stunt was lame, but whatever. It's not a big deal. Unless you hate women who are pretty and rad, then it is. I don't see anyone shitting on Kevin...
so it begs the question about what part of their claims are true.
All of it? None of it? I don't give a sh#t what she did or didn't do it is up to her to live with being a FATTY BAD LIAR FACE.
Have we reached the tipping point where corporate interest and hype rules??
Do I need to go through allll the events in the past where climbers used a media circus to garner attention/sponsorships/cash? I think it SUCKS and every climbing company should be for profit and only make gear using hemp and organic threads spun by cage free Syrian Refugees. then we would be back to our true roots of being unimpressive climbers no one cares to watch.
climbing has been f*#ked to death by corporate interest
Not sure where you are climbing or who with but my experience hasn't changed a damn bit in 15 years. Well, I'm slightly less shitty at it, but still shitty.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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May 16, 2019 - 05:35am PT
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Jesus, what a mess, that chick can’t handle a drill! You can see the drill moving all over the place as she drills, no effort or clue what-so-ever to go in straight. You can see the resulting oversized hole as she pounds those bolts in. Bunch of fuking rookies making a mess.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 16, 2019 - 05:39am PT
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HaHa Yeah I saw that post a day ago & thought the same thing
 going about wrecking the place ruining bat habitat too.
All part of the cost of having fun as a pro. Is there any virtue in expanding climbing opportunities,
so making the most of the resources?
I have a daughter, At one time she was all-in. This was an introduction;
(& to stop the haters, this is from Dec 10, 2011)
https://youtu.be/eCLJIypp8kg
Pretty in pink or black& blue(other videos)
She sure is cute (in blue)
And pulz gawd hard I watch her videos
(paint drying never looks this good)
https://youtu.be/_I7K7BOnAWs
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Late Starter
Social climber
NA
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May 16, 2019 - 05:54am PT
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JLP...you are so bitter. I suggest you talk to someone, get some help. EVERY post from you is toxic.
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 16, 2019 - 02:24pm PT
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In previous Olympics, Womens' Gymnastics has been much more front and center than Mens', due to the cute girls prancing around in tights, and also the emotional drama with the crying spells make for good entertainment. I wonder if the same thing will be true of rock climbing at the 2020 Olympics. Also, I wonder if more gymnasts will try out rock climbing, as a result of it being an Olympic Sport. This plus Free Solo has brought rock climbing and mountaineering into the media in a way probably not seen since Hillary and Tenzing conquered Everest.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 16, 2019 - 02:39pm PT
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You're onto something, however our crowded climbing venues hardly need more people.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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May 16, 2019 - 02:44pm PT
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People won't be happy until the Crags look like the beach on Fourth of July
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 16, 2019 - 03:01pm PT
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Donini, I couldn't agree more, we don't need more people on crags, although hopefully most will end up in the gym and stay there. I recall a recent post where someone told someone else, "Just hike below Glen Aulin towards the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne and there are miles of granite with hardly anyone there." There will always be lots of places like that, at least until future advances in drone transportation make it easy to go places. I sometimes wonder how soon that is coming, where you can get in a little flying vehicle and get to places like that quickly and easily. I would imagine the old folks will look back and say it's not the same as when you had to walk in, but then the new generation will not have know anything different.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 16, 2019 - 03:12pm PT
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The old folks say while the young play. Change is inevitable....trust me, I've seen plenty of changes in climbing since I first tied into a rope in 1964. I have enjoyed a lot of the changes in equipment, it's so much better now. And sometimes I wish some things hadn't changed but I don't decry change which would be a self defeating thing to do.
Change, in nearly everything, is inevitable and one of the characteristics of humans is the ability to adjust...not that they always do.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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May 16, 2019 - 03:29pm PT
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Haha Jim. When asked what my strength is, I answer,” my ability to deal with change.” When asked what my weakness is, I answer, “ my ability to deal with change.” It can be a strength, or it can be a weakness.
Peace
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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May 16, 2019 - 03:30pm PT
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A lot of the draw of watching the Olympics, at least for myself, is not just the athleticism but also the personal stories behind the individuals. Everyone loves a good story. Miss the old days of the true amateurs. Would have liked to see Kai Lightner (and mom) in Tokyo but I guess he did not make the cut.
Kai is an amazing person even without climbing. He was one of the top climbers in the world and was also valedictorian of his high school class.
https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/climber-kai-lightner-trades-climbing-dream-for-college-and-helping-others
When climber Kai Lightner started college as a 19-year-old freshman last August, he had two major goals. The first was demanding, but straightforward: keep up with the rigorous academics of his entrepreneurship major. On a full-ride scholarship at Babson College in Boston—ranked No. 1 for entrepreneurship 21 years in a row by U.S. News & World Report—he wouldn’t just be able to study for tests and take online classes. Lightner would be required to attend classes four days a week, study at least six days a week, and partake in post-school meetings, engaging daily with his professors and fellow students.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 16, 2019 - 03:47pm PT
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Wow....he sounds pretty cool!
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 16, 2019 - 07:16pm PT
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"Rock climbing is not a sport for us. It’s a sport for smiling white people in commercials,’” he remembers. “But it worked out for me.”
A few years back, I took a couple of dear friends who happen to be black to a remote area in the Sierras. I asked them why I never saw black families out camping hardly at all, and they said as an American subculture, it just wasn't the way they were raised.
It is too bad that the way they are setting up climbing for the Olympics is such that the teams are so small. I had a friend who went to the Barcelona Olympics as a swimmer. She did not medal, but said it was the experience of a lifetime. Even Magic Johnson said it was so unique and special to play basketball as an Olympian. I wish more people like Kai Lightner could be on the team. Judging from the world cup standings, the Eastern Europeans are going to take most of the medals anyway.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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May 16, 2019 - 07:20pm PT
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I met him and his mom a couple of years ago at the Access Fund and AAC’s “Climb the Hill” event in DC to support public lands.
Both were impressive and inspiring people.
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