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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 10, 2015 - 06:29am PT
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I was reading an article today in the Huff Post on Sasha DiGiulian. She is tearing it up on sport climbs all over the world, as well as at the top of the women's competition circuit. I was just wondering if she has been out to Yosemite yet?
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 10, 2015 - 06:50am PT
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Another hottie
,Sierra Coyle!
This generations women will finally take the reins
as the women should
it is a sport
where a women can out preform men often
and in some ways it is the only physical challenge that provides a level playing field.
Hmm maybe long distance 'super' or 'extreme' running?
Sasha seems more of a sport climber, her focus any way right now.
She will be at the Lander Wy climbing fest July 8 -12 @ only $50 to go through the whole state of Why? To see and clip bolts with her and Hans Florine? Hey Sam Lightner.jr July?
Any how good luck if you go the climbing is fun, if you do not blow a finger on a mono dwau?dwaux? They call some things fun out there that can ruin a climbing trip.
Why am I always pissing off the Cowboys in Wyoming ?
Sorry please see this as a joke not a shot at y'all !!
I have loved the times I suffered climbing and driving in Wyoming!
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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May 10, 2015 - 10:14am PT
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Forty years ago Pat Ament and I used to talk about rock climbing eventually becoming women's gymnastics. Who knows what the sport will look like in fifty years?
In gymnastic competition I don't see why men and women should not be allowed to compete against one another on the horizontal bar.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 10, 2015 - 10:28am PT
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This is how rockclimbing will eventually become a spectator sport. for every hour of watching women's volleyball or gymnastics, I watch about 2 minutes of the men's. Just get Steph to do the commentating, please.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Aug 24, 2015 - 07:33pm PT
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Yer gunna die!!
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA/Boulder, CO
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Aug 24, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^
The video clip of the TV show says "First ever woman to conquer the peak[meaning the North Face of the Eiger]" Obviously that's not the case, at least for the 1938 Route. My guess is that they mean the first woman to free climb the Eiger.
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Berner
Mountain climber
Switzerland
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Aug 25, 2015 - 03:03am PT
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boah, what a piece of bad journalism... there are for sure a lot of other woman who climbed routes in the Eiger north wall. Probably it will be the first woman repeat of this specific route "Paciencia" from Steck/Siegrist (2008)
There are so many attempts on the easier (say till 7c) sportroutes on the Eiger, it is actually impossible to track all of them
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Aug 25, 2015 - 07:06am PT
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Great talent, she should skip the crowds of Yosemite and go directly to the Karakorum and Patagonia. She can hone some ice climbing skills in Ouray this winter.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 25, 2015 - 07:28am PT
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Another hottie
,Sierra Coyle!
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jmacrosoft
Sport climber
Atlanta, GA
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Aug 25, 2015 - 08:29am PT
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Was able to meet her (and Cedar Wright) at my gym's annual fundraiser for the Access Fund, Southeastern Climbers Coalition, and Carolina Climbers Coalition called "rock & rave". She was super chill and ended up doing a boulder competition with others in Sumo Suits. Even in a sumo suit, she crushed problems like it was no big deal. That chick can climb. Doesn't hurt that she's easy on the eyes either.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 25, 2015 - 08:42am PT
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I'm afraid these TV journalists...well, there's little to choose from as it is, so it's not such a big deal who says what...don't think too well when choosing phrases.
"Death-defying limestone" is a case in point.
Think about what that's describing.
Viel Glück , Miss.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Aug 25, 2015 - 08:46am PT
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Peace - became her facebook cover photo on July 25 Yeah - taken right after she fell off a 5.8 crack, I'm sure.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Oakland, CA
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Aug 25, 2015 - 09:58am PT
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I watched a couple of the Eiger short vids and there is almost zero climbing in them. I didn't watch the Dawn Wall show though... Is this the new thing? Sound byte dispatch selfies from the wall? Because it's pretty boring.
Top climber though, some of The Peace photos are terrific. Hope they send.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 25, 2015 - 10:48am PT
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Yeah - taken right after she fell off a 5.8 crack, I'm sure.
An offwidth 5.8 no doubt. But she is hawt, so its ok.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Aug 25, 2015 - 11:35am PT
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Forty years ago Pat Ament and I used to talk about rock climbing eventually becoming women's gymnastics. Who knows what the sport will look like in fifty years?
I have thought the same thing for at least that long, but 40 years ago, I would have been intimidated to join a conversation with either of you. As a father of daughters and an older brother of sisters, I love how women are starting (and, in my opinion, just starting) to take their rightful place among the elite of our sport. Besides, my daughters and son-in-law make great climbing companions, even if I will soon be unable to keep up with them.
John
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Aug 25, 2015 - 11:57am PT
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John, there was some consensus that Pat Kelly was among the finest rock climbers - if not the finest - in Great Britain during her prime. Small light women are really better designed for rock gymnastics than most big lumbering guys like us!
;>)
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Aug 25, 2015 - 04:14pm PT
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Yeah - taken right after she fell off a 5.8 crack, I'm sure.
An offwidth 5.8 no doubt. But she is hawt, so its ok.
And how have you fared on Peace? I know I have no chance to get up it but she sent it in 3 days I think.
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steve shea
climber
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Aug 29, 2015 - 02:40pm PT
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When I think of an El Cap route the West face or East Buttress is not the area I think of. More like the Nose to Dihedral Wall or the Nose east past the NA. Same here. The area of best rock for bolt routes is through the Rote Fluh up to the yellow stretch above. The exit is onto the West Flank descent route. Not near the summit at all. The good alpine climbing is to the left of the RF and goes all the way to the Mittleggi Ridge. Most of the mixed alpine routes are true summit routes and start at the base.
I think many of the rock sporty routes are accessed from the railway window near the RF. This eliminates 2000' of climbing. Some easy, some very difficult. The North Face is not always the North Face. There is a good chunk of rock further east on the cusp of the Mittleggi but starts and finishes with alpine terrain, no easy exit. They climbed a route on the NF but far from the '38, Harlin or Lowe's.
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The guy above
climber
Across the pond
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Aug 30, 2015 - 10:56am PT
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It looks they had a hell of a siege team...
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overwatch
climber
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Aug 30, 2015 - 11:07am PT
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Pretty cool picture
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Yikes. Not exactly the alternate version you want in the press especially on Reddit. Where is the truth in this matter? Only Duguilian knows herself. I would say this sounds right on par for harder climbs. Sure, many have been done in way better style, but I think they are exceptions, not the norm.
Most assume, based on the style they approach far easier routes, that the hard routes done by the best climbers must therefore be approached the same way. They generally are not. Everyone getting to see more detail on the whole Dawn Wall thing is another easy example.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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if you call yourself a traditional climber then you better perform like a trad climber. I'm not very good a trad climbing but when i did it was without a clip cheat stick.. after a few years of banging the knees and elbows a stick clip is really nice to have.. I always take one with me if not I have the Medusa climb it for me.
to each is whatever!
I'm still try'n to figure out what makes a professional climber they make NO money!
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Most assume, based on the style they approach far easier routes, that the hard routes done by the best climbers must therefore be approached the same way. They generally are not. Everyone getting to see more detail on the whole Dawn Wall thing is another easy example.
That is an easy example of what happens when businessmen-climbers put up a hard climb with real-time blogging, filming, etc.
Not so sure it's a good example of what happens when the climbers aren't drive by monetizing the climb.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Apr 18, 2016 - 12:05am PT
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 18, 2016 - 12:09am PT
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I was just wondering if she has been out to Yosemite yet?
UNTIL SHE DOES THE SLACK OR MOBY DICK RIGHT I GIVE NO SH#TS OF HER 'ACCOMPLISHMENTS'
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Apr 18, 2016 - 06:09am PT
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I'm a total ho for stick clippin' the first bolt, sometimes two, from the ground. I have ZERO interest in another sprained or broken ankle. The point is to have fun and be able to come back again the next day.
Re. the Eiger gossip: Are these style-criticizing Euros the same ones who drill holes in dry-tool routes to make them go? Pot, meet kettle.
BAd
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 18, 2016 - 06:18am PT
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How do you hate on this wonderkind?
She is smart, some peoples taste in what's hot physically, & willing to put it out there.
GTFO Utha' the way. Let the children play. We taught them, some of us were more hands on in the process.
'By Any means' has been the black secret that we have held in check, now that is out of the bag let the great ones become great . It is Their time,
Obviously #TeamSasha DiGiulian! You Go Girl, , #GoyleSuper human mutants rule!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Apr 18, 2016 - 08:03am PT
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I'm a total ho for stick clippin' the first bolt, sometimes two, from the ground. I have ZERO interest in another sprained or broken ankle. The point is to have fun and be able to come back again the next day.
I'm a total stick clipper.. it's useful
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 18, 2016 - 08:05am PT
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I don't get busting balls over stick clipping, so what? Not disclosing its use when spraying would be another matter
I think Sasha is awesome, she is spot on, good on her
Her grandfather, Remy DiJullian was a famous stunt driver
vvvvvvvvvvv Yeah, traaahhhdddd, myahn!
How PC
ghey-azz
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Apr 18, 2016 - 08:15am PT
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this a TRAD site, no ghey-azz stick clipping allowed!!!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Apr 18, 2016 - 10:25am PT
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Bad Climber, I am totally with you on the stick clip front. I'm too old to lose a season to a broken / sprained ankle. I use it when it seems prudent.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 18, 2016 - 12:47pm PT
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The Americans switched to “Magic mushroom” (7c. 2o SL), a 2oo7 line opened by Roger Schäli and Christoph Hainz, redpointed by Stephan Siegrist. It ends on the famous mushroom – a base jump exit on the west ridge. From there Sasha and Carlo rappelled and installed fixed ropes in the headwall and then score the route in three days. Supposedly other climbers could not even think of climbing there at this time with all the fixed ropes and drones buzzing around. Once on top they made a selfie with the US flag and on the next day they got stuck rappelling and called a helicopter. The euphoric US media called DiGiulians “adventure” “Conquering the Eiger”.
wow what a sh#t show.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 18, 2016 - 01:39pm PT
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Stick clipping is fine as long as you own up to the fact you didn't climb it ground up.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Apr 18, 2016 - 03:49pm PT
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you climbed it ground up, not protected ground up
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 18, 2016 - 03:54pm PT
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Agreed. First moves top roped.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 18, 2016 - 05:21pm PT
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I'm guessing the Eiger climb was pitched by the big corporate sponsors and they had to play along, regardless of how silly and phuked up it was.
doesn't seem congruous with the bulk of either of their work and seems to be what it is - a one off media circus that hopefully won't happen too often.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Apr 18, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
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Have we reached the tipping point where corporate interest and hype rules??
This is sad.
Maybe it is time to go amateur again
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 18, 2016 - 06:11pm PT
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You seem pretty worked up about this.
I always feel it helps to have a nuanced point of view on these sorts of things - they are never black and white, sorry : / I know it makes it much easier to create a strawman, they are twice as evil and half as difficult to defeat.
I don't know what happened, or whose idea it was, or who was sold what - I've just been a climber for a really long time and had my words mixed up, had things I've said taken out of context and even stretched the truth for someone who was hoping to hear something crazy.
It's no secret that Kevin Jorgenson is hammering the social media and marketing schtick hard as f*#k. It's not my gig, it's not what I like about climbing, but the dude is making money. I sold shitty overpriced mattresses to people that couldn't afford them with bad credit, I'm not gonna hate on the guy TOO much for going after that pie all day because we all sell out in some way.
I'll have to go back into the Eiger story to see what it was that grated you so much and made you very upset. I'm sure, like with all the big sh!t done in Yos, there's fixed ropes and bullshit flying around - I had to climb the Leaning Tower through fixed lines from some yosemite hot shot everyone here adores, I don't harbor hate for the guy I just see it as it is.
Sure the Eiger stunt was lame, but whatever. It's not a big deal. Unless you hate women who are pretty and rad, then it is. I don't see anyone shitting on Kevin...
so it begs the question about what part of their claims are true.
All of it? None of it? I don't give a sh#t what she did or didn't do it is up to her to live with being a FATTY BAD LIAR FACE.
Have we reached the tipping point where corporate interest and hype rules??
Do I need to go through allll the events in the past where climbers used a media circus to garner attention/sponsorships/cash? I think it SUCKS and every climbing company should be for profit and only make gear using hemp and organic threads spun by cage free Syrian Refugees. then we would be back to our true roots of being unimpressive climbers no one cares to watch.
climbing has been f*#ked to death by corporate interest
Not sure where you are climbing or who with but my experience hasn't changed a damn bit in 15 years. Well, I'm slightly less shitty at it, but still shitty.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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May 16, 2019 - 05:35am PT
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Jesus, what a mess, that chick can’t handle a drill! You can see the drill moving all over the place as she drills, no effort or clue what-so-ever to go in straight. You can see the resulting oversized hole as she pounds those bolts in. Bunch of fuking rookies making a mess.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 16, 2019 - 05:39am PT
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HaHa Yeah I saw that post a day ago & thought the same thing
 going about wrecking the place ruining bat habitat too.
All part of the cost of having fun as a pro. Is there any virtue in expanding climbing opportunities,
so making the most of the resources?
I have a daughter, At one time she was all-in. This was an introduction;
(& to stop the haters, this is from Dec 10, 2011)
https://youtu.be/eCLJIypp8kg
Pretty in pink or black& blue(other videos)
She sure is cute (in blue)
And pulz gawd hard I watch her videos
(paint drying never looks this good)
https://youtu.be/_I7K7BOnAWs
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Late Starter
Social climber
NA
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May 16, 2019 - 05:54am PT
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JLP...you are so bitter. I suggest you talk to someone, get some help. EVERY post from you is toxic.
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 16, 2019 - 02:24pm PT
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In previous Olympics, Womens' Gymnastics has been much more front and center than Mens', due to the cute girls prancing around in tights, and also the emotional drama with the crying spells make for good entertainment. I wonder if the same thing will be true of rock climbing at the 2020 Olympics. Also, I wonder if more gymnasts will try out rock climbing, as a result of it being an Olympic Sport. This plus Free Solo has brought rock climbing and mountaineering into the media in a way probably not seen since Hillary and Tenzing conquered Everest.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 16, 2019 - 02:39pm PT
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You're onto something, however our crowded climbing venues hardly need more people.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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May 16, 2019 - 02:44pm PT
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People won't be happy until the Crags look like the beach on Fourth of July
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 16, 2019 - 03:01pm PT
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Donini, I couldn't agree more, we don't need more people on crags, although hopefully most will end up in the gym and stay there. I recall a recent post where someone told someone else, "Just hike below Glen Aulin towards the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne and there are miles of granite with hardly anyone there." There will always be lots of places like that, at least until future advances in drone transportation make it easy to go places. I sometimes wonder how soon that is coming, where you can get in a little flying vehicle and get to places like that quickly and easily. I would imagine the old folks will look back and say it's not the same as when you had to walk in, but then the new generation will not have know anything different.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 16, 2019 - 03:12pm PT
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The old folks say while the young play. Change is inevitable....trust me, I've seen plenty of changes in climbing since I first tied into a rope in 1964. I have enjoyed a lot of the changes in equipment, it's so much better now. And sometimes I wish some things hadn't changed but I don't decry change which would be a self defeating thing to do.
Change, in nearly everything, is inevitable and one of the characteristics of humans is the ability to adjust...not that they always do.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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May 16, 2019 - 03:29pm PT
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Haha Jim. When asked what my strength is, I answer,” my ability to deal with change.” When asked what my weakness is, I answer, “ my ability to deal with change.” It can be a strength, or it can be a weakness.
Peace
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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May 16, 2019 - 03:30pm PT
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A lot of the draw of watching the Olympics, at least for myself, is not just the athleticism but also the personal stories behind the individuals. Everyone loves a good story. Miss the old days of the true amateurs. Would have liked to see Kai Lightner (and mom) in Tokyo but I guess he did not make the cut.
Kai is an amazing person even without climbing. He was one of the top climbers in the world and was also valedictorian of his high school class.
https://www.rei.com/blog/climb/climber-kai-lightner-trades-climbing-dream-for-college-and-helping-others
When climber Kai Lightner started college as a 19-year-old freshman last August, he had two major goals. The first was demanding, but straightforward: keep up with the rigorous academics of his entrepreneurship major. On a full-ride scholarship at Babson College in Boston—ranked No. 1 for entrepreneurship 21 years in a row by U.S. News & World Report—he wouldn’t just be able to study for tests and take online classes. Lightner would be required to attend classes four days a week, study at least six days a week, and partake in post-school meetings, engaging daily with his professors and fellow students.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 16, 2019 - 03:47pm PT
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Wow....he sounds pretty cool!
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 16, 2019 - 07:16pm PT
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"Rock climbing is not a sport for us. It’s a sport for smiling white people in commercials,’” he remembers. “But it worked out for me.”
A few years back, I took a couple of dear friends who happen to be black to a remote area in the Sierras. I asked them why I never saw black families out camping hardly at all, and they said as an American subculture, it just wasn't the way they were raised.
It is too bad that the way they are setting up climbing for the Olympics is such that the teams are so small. I had a friend who went to the Barcelona Olympics as a swimmer. She did not medal, but said it was the experience of a lifetime. Even Magic Johnson said it was so unique and special to play basketball as an Olympian. I wish more people like Kai Lightner could be on the team. Judging from the world cup standings, the Eastern Europeans are going to take most of the medals anyway.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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May 16, 2019 - 07:20pm PT
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I met him and his mom a couple of years ago at the Access Fund and AAC’s “Climb the Hill” event in DC to support public lands.
Both were impressive and inspiring people.
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