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steve shea
climber
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Aug 29, 2015 - 02:40pm PT
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When I think of an El Cap route the West face or East Buttress is not the area I think of. More like the Nose to Dihedral Wall or the Nose east past the NA. Same here. The area of best rock for bolt routes is through the Rote Fluh up to the yellow stretch above. The exit is onto the West Flank descent route. Not near the summit at all. The good alpine climbing is to the left of the RF and goes all the way to the Mittleggi Ridge. Most of the mixed alpine routes are true summit routes and start at the base.
I think many of the rock sporty routes are accessed from the railway window near the RF. This eliminates 2000' of climbing. Some easy, some very difficult. The North Face is not always the North Face. There is a good chunk of rock further east on the cusp of the Mittleggi but starts and finishes with alpine terrain, no easy exit. They climbed a route on the NF but far from the '38, Harlin or Lowe's.
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The guy above
climber
Across the pond
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Aug 30, 2015 - 10:56am PT
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It looks they had a hell of a siege team...
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overwatch
climber
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Aug 30, 2015 - 11:07am PT
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Pretty cool picture
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Yikes. Not exactly the alternate version you want in the press especially on Reddit. Where is the truth in this matter? Only Duguilian knows herself. I would say this sounds right on par for harder climbs. Sure, many have been done in way better style, but I think they are exceptions, not the norm.
Most assume, based on the style they approach far easier routes, that the hard routes done by the best climbers must therefore be approached the same way. They generally are not. Everyone getting to see more detail on the whole Dawn Wall thing is another easy example.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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if you call yourself a traditional climber then you better perform like a trad climber. I'm not very good a trad climbing but when i did it was without a clip cheat stick.. after a few years of banging the knees and elbows a stick clip is really nice to have.. I always take one with me if not I have the Medusa climb it for me.
to each is whatever!
I'm still try'n to figure out what makes a professional climber they make NO money!
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Most assume, based on the style they approach far easier routes, that the hard routes done by the best climbers must therefore be approached the same way. They generally are not. Everyone getting to see more detail on the whole Dawn Wall thing is another easy example.
That is an easy example of what happens when businessmen-climbers put up a hard climb with real-time blogging, filming, etc.
Not so sure it's a good example of what happens when the climbers aren't drive by monetizing the climb.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Apr 18, 2016 - 12:05am PT
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 18, 2016 - 12:09am PT
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I was just wondering if she has been out to Yosemite yet?
UNTIL SHE DOES THE SLACK OR MOBY DICK RIGHT I GIVE NO SH#TS OF HER 'ACCOMPLISHMENTS'
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Apr 18, 2016 - 06:09am PT
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I'm a total ho for stick clippin' the first bolt, sometimes two, from the ground. I have ZERO interest in another sprained or broken ankle. The point is to have fun and be able to come back again the next day.
Re. the Eiger gossip: Are these style-criticizing Euros the same ones who drill holes in dry-tool routes to make them go? Pot, meet kettle.
BAd
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Apr 18, 2016 - 06:18am PT
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How do you hate on this wonderkind?
She is smart, some peoples taste in what's hot physically, & willing to put it out there.
GTFO Utha' the way. Let the children play. We taught them, some of us were more hands on in the process.
'By Any means' has been the black secret that we have held in check, now that is out of the bag let the great ones become great . It is Their time,
Obviously #TeamSasha DiGiulian! You Go Girl, , #GoyleSuper human mutants rule!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Apr 18, 2016 - 08:03am PT
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I'm a total ho for stick clippin' the first bolt, sometimes two, from the ground. I have ZERO interest in another sprained or broken ankle. The point is to have fun and be able to come back again the next day.
I'm a total stick clipper.. it's useful
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 18, 2016 - 08:05am PT
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I don't get busting balls over stick clipping, so what? Not disclosing its use when spraying would be another matter
I think Sasha is awesome, she is spot on, good on her
Her grandfather, Remy DiJullian was a famous stunt driver
vvvvvvvvvvv Yeah, traaahhhdddd, myahn!
How PC
ghey-azz
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Apr 18, 2016 - 08:15am PT
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this a TRAD site, no ghey-azz stick clipping allowed!!!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Apr 18, 2016 - 10:25am PT
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Bad Climber, I am totally with you on the stick clip front. I'm too old to lose a season to a broken / sprained ankle. I use it when it seems prudent.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Apr 18, 2016 - 12:47pm PT
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The Americans switched to “Magic mushroom” (7c. 2o SL), a 2oo7 line opened by Roger Schäli and Christoph Hainz, redpointed by Stephan Siegrist. It ends on the famous mushroom – a base jump exit on the west ridge. From there Sasha and Carlo rappelled and installed fixed ropes in the headwall and then score the route in three days. Supposedly other climbers could not even think of climbing there at this time with all the fixed ropes and drones buzzing around. Once on top they made a selfie with the US flag and on the next day they got stuck rappelling and called a helicopter. The euphoric US media called DiGiulians “adventure” “Conquering the Eiger”.
wow what a sh#t show.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 18, 2016 - 01:39pm PT
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Stick clipping is fine as long as you own up to the fact you didn't climb it ground up.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Apr 18, 2016 - 03:49pm PT
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you climbed it ground up, not protected ground up
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Apr 18, 2016 - 03:54pm PT
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Agreed. First moves top roped.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Apr 18, 2016 - 05:21pm PT
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I'm guessing the Eiger climb was pitched by the big corporate sponsors and they had to play along, regardless of how silly and phuked up it was.
doesn't seem congruous with the bulk of either of their work and seems to be what it is - a one off media circus that hopefully won't happen too often.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Apr 18, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
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Have we reached the tipping point where corporate interest and hype rules??
This is sad.
Maybe it is time to go amateur again
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