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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 06:09pm PT
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Of course you were there first and suggesting they had any right to the route by giving it up would have been a bad example. I find an upbeat "There's no one behind us. You can be next." works well. I'd probably go one further and offer to put up their rope for them after following the route. That way they'll spend the 3 hour toprope sesh on a route I've already done rather than finding another route and ending up on the anchor I was going to use later.
Agreed.
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Stewart Johnson
climber
lake forest
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I usually say hey you guys don't mind if I lead this route?
I won't be long ... Thanks so much!
Then climb the route and maybe display good techniques....
I've been such a Dick so many times it's not a pleasant feeling !
Edit:show the noobs how to act at the crag that I shouldn't
Be at.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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I tell him there will be a fistfight unless he packs his sh#t and makes tracks
Aren't you, like, 50?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Like 50....oh the horror! Did your mother ever tell you about me?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 07:23pm PT
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Greg! What happened in Vegas bro?
Edit:
I usually say hey you guys don't mind if I lead this route?
I won't be long ... Thanks so much!
Tact. I like it.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Well, I guess it stays in Vegas... haha.
I was traveling with a friend in their car and he was on his own agenda : / was a fun trip, tho!
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Just lookit how many feathers got ruffled with a 50 comment! Funny.
50 is the new 30. I perform now in ways I couldn't have dreamed of in my 30's. Heh.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2015 - 07:41pm PT
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Guess so. Thanks for the call!
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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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even if some one is tope roping a route and you want to lead it they should pull the rope and just get out of your way. Then again, showing up late and choosing to join an already busy crag is just lame. I assume that by leaving the names of the routes out you must be hiding something? A true "bad ass trad dude" should be able find a uncrowded obscure pitch to lead. One time my partner and I were on the fifth pitch of the Steck-Salathe and some Bad ass trad dudes showed up and yelled up to us from the ground and asked if they could pass. We thought this was hilarious and said "sure come on up" We didn't see them again until that afternoon as we were hiking down from the top and saw them rapping from the Wilson overhang.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Being In Sierra Happy Of Place
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The internet is great for validation.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 09:44am PT
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I assume that by leaving the names of the routes out you must be hiding something?
Lol.. Ya i'm hiding something by putting myself up for scrutiny. Good one.... Lol. The portion of the wall we chose was empty, and I agree showing up late is lame but my partner doesn't seem to understand, despite my many protests on the subject.
Thanks Kevin. Rope was down and we were racking up, that was precedent. We should have just told them we wouldn't be long and thrown a tr up for them.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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The internet is great for validation
Yeah, Donini, you hear that? Just leave us, the morally challenged,
alone to stew in our own fetid pot of pathos, okay?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 10:01am PT
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That is not going to happen. They shall wait their turn.
Agreed. Unless they have been on the route for hours and are letting all their friends tr it on the way past.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 11:12am PT
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This must be a controversial thread. Two deletions! Lol
In the interest of transparency, the crag was Funarama and the route was Ethan's Crack.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Sorry, fell asleep waiting for my popcorn to be done. Is this decided yet?
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2015 - 12:37pm PT
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Lol! Is there ever a consensus here?? ;)
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Top-ropers are like a lynch party - they just can't get the rope on right.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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So if a freesoloer shows up everybody is sent packing...
Sometime around 1985 I was sitting at the base of Ride a Wild Bago in Josh with Julie Lazar. As I laced up my shoes a God-like blonde haired young man wearing rock shoes, Patagonia baggies and a chalk bag walked up.
"Do you mind if I go ahead? I won't be a minute."
He climbed the route like he was walking on level ground. I had to refer back to my guidebook to see if this really was the 5.10 I was looking for.
I had never seen anything quite like it. I'd seen Henry Barber solo back at the Gunks, and Weissner came by us on a rainy day as we took shelter on the big ledge on High E. But these guys wore rock climbing clothes. Luckily I missed seeing Dick Williams naked on Shockley's. Yikes.
Anyway I didn't think Bachar stepping in front was bad form at all. And when I led the thing I thought it was kind of funky.
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