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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 11:17pm PT
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Basically, the mythos is too soft for most, but having a midsole put in during a resole would almost make a syncro out of it. I had Barrys do that to the first gen dominator and was my favoritest shoe for years until putrescence set in.
Never thought the techno, muira, or even TC pro were bad. Lots of people like the moccasym for cracks, but its a bit of a cult following. I love my mocs, but not for cracks.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 11:27pm PT
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Definitely prefer the new techno to the old myself, but you go with what fits and feels good.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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The crux of this thing for the OP is the same as mine; size 14 eeee feet. (Well, maybe not the eeee part.) That translates to a size 48 EU, maybe a 47+. Just finding a shoe in that size is a pain in the ass, much less getting on that does what you want. My Mythos turn into flip flops within 3 months. They still work, but all the stiffness is gone. My feet are so wide though, that I've stretched them out a bit and that has reshaped the tip of the shoe to a tight point that works pretty good in finger cracks. I would love to find something better (that fits me) though.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Send your floppy mythos to Barrys and ask him for a midsole addition, he might still do them.....is Barrys still around?
Seems like scarpa is one of the few that makes shoes that big.
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2015 - 07:47am PT
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Ed: let me know if you ever see the techno in a 48, I have an ebay alert for "14 climbing shoes" and have never been alerted with anything I would actually buy.
The rubber room and Yosemite bum can add a midsole, Yosemite bum will cost you around $60, the rubber room will charge around what a new pair of shoes would cost.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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is Barrys still around?
two-shoes says so...
I have recently received newly repaired rands on my Legends and Kaukulators... wonderful work well worth the wait
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Kalkulators have their place and thin cracks isn't one of them. When a crack gets down to red camalot size the toe profile is critical.
I go so far as to be bevel the lateral edge with a dremel tool to thin it down. In thin cracks you drop your knee so that you can present the shoe in it's narrowest configuration which means that the lateral edge will be the weight bearing side. Also, consider that the lateral edge need not be as thick as the medial because it is rarely used for edging.
Length is also important. You want zero knuckling of the toe, the foot must be totally flat.
When buying shoes for thin cracks make sure that:
they fit comfortably
they allow the foot to lie completely flat
they have a low, sculpted toe profile
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Skitch- Try out the new Anasazi Pinks dude. I just got a pair. Love em for slab and they have a low toe profile. I haven't stuck em in any thin stuff yet but my old pair were the cat's ass for that.
The new ones are stiffer too which would be good for jamming. They come in up to size 15!
http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/14522-anasazi-lace-the-pink#tab3
The other shoe i've had success with is it's cousin the Vcs. It's basically a velcro version.
Signed
Size 13
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couchmaster
climber
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Size 14? Whoh! At that size, you'd be better off grabbing 2 cows, stuffing your feet up their asses, offing them and walking over to Locker the resoler to slap some 5.10 rubber on the bottoms of those big leather ballons. Bam, done.
Cosmic will show up with a photoshop of this method soon I suspect.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Cows?!?!??? What's the matter with you? Goats are much more sure footed.....
Hey Mike!! Did your pinks stretch at all; maybe just a little? I need to try a pair of those on to check 'em out. With my wide feet, I'm thinking maybe I can "modify" the toe profile a bit to get them in the thin stuff.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Ya they're stretching a bit. Five Tens are a wider last too and the toe is already pointy. Size em comfy Chris.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Cool Mike! After my feet are done with them, they will have an even lower toe profile. But they gotta fit right.
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