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skitch
climber
East of Heaven
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 31, 2015 - 03:06pm PT
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Is there anything better than the Mythos for thin cracks?
I have Tc Pros and Mocasyms, but my mythos seem to work best, but they have been resoled once and they are beat. Is there anything better than the Mythos? Too bad the new Scarpa Techno went to crap. . .
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 31, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
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Is there anything better than the Mythos for thin cracks?
Baby angles.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 31, 2015 - 03:30pm PT
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Really? Is there anything worse? Imho mythos are complete sh#t unless you are only doing hand cracks.
lace up LS Muira seemed like the best to me When I had them. tc pro works good now. I guess it depends on foot and preference.
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skitch
climber
East of Heaven
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2015 - 03:42pm PT
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Maybe I should mention that I have a size 14 foot, and my Mythos are around my exact shoe size if not even a bit too big, I really don't like them for anything but thin cracks, but on the opening moves of Five and Dime I was able to put my toe into the crack before my friends could with their mocasyms.
I wish I could have found a pair of the original technos in my size. My wife has 2 pairs and loves them.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
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Size 14 foot!?! Aren't all cracks thin cracks for you?
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
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The most important factor is the shoes fitting your feet.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Mar 31, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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Katanas are good in thin cracks and don't have the lace cut/difficult relace problems of Mythos.
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
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I think the Katana would work if they made them big enough that they weren't a tight fit for me, but unfortunately the biggest they make is a 46, which is a sport climbing fit for me. . .I hate my feet.
The TC Pro is THE shoe for most everyone I know. . .but everything around here is vertical to slabby.
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2015 - 04:41pm PT
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Not really for thin cracks, but is the Evolv Addict pretty much an exact copy of the Mocasym? I've seen those in my size for super cheap.
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Brian
climber
California
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Mar 31, 2015 - 05:22pm PT
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Mocs (or Supermocs, if you can find 'em) are the best for thin cracks. Be sure to size for flat toes, which can take some doing given the significant stretch that occurs breaking in Mocs.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Mar 31, 2015 - 05:37pm PT
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Boreal high tops circa 1985.....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 31, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
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Cobras
Old school Ninjas
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Mar 31, 2015 - 06:09pm PT
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The advantage of clunky-toed shoes in thin cracks is, you can say "screw this, let's go do that hand crack one" much sooner.
(And aren't the opening moves on F&D juggy knobs? I thought I remembered getting halfway up before yelling "screw this, . . .")
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thebravecowboy
climber
Greyrock, CO
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Mar 31, 2015 - 07:05pm PT
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copperheads
Yes. Mine are lookin' a out as sorry as that squirrel out in the gutter, but they are keepers nonetheless
And yeah, the TCs are kinda neglected of the shoes in my quiver, for some reason (shh, they fall apart pretty quick)
^this may or may not relate to inverting on some sharp cracks.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 31, 2015 - 07:07pm PT
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The Scarpa Techno, a third endorsement. Of course, as with anything good, they stopped making them. The new Techno is a good shoe but not for thin cracks.
The myth of the Mythos has always puzzled me.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
therealmccoy from Nevada City
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Mar 31, 2015 - 08:55pm PT
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They work great for me, but I have never climbed anything "hard" so I feel like its hard to say.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 31, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
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Aces
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 11:04pm PT
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Another vote for Muira. They aren't torture for multi pitch either.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 11:07pm PT
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A fourth for the techno. Mythos have never been a favorite of mine for anything.
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