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| Messages 1 - 34 of total 34 in this topic |
skitch
climber
East of Heaven
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 31, 2015 - 03:06pm PT
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Is there anything better than the Mythos for thin cracks?
I have Tc Pros and Mocasyms, but my mythos seem to work best, but they have been resoled once and they are beat. Is there anything better than the Mythos? Too bad the new Scarpa Techno went to crap. . .
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Mar 31, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
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Is there anything better than the Mythos for thin cracks?
Baby angles.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 31, 2015 - 03:30pm PT
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Really? Is there anything worse? Imho mythos are complete sh#t unless you are only doing hand cracks.
lace up LS Muira seemed like the best to me When I had them. tc pro works good now. I guess it depends on foot and preference.
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skitch
climber
East of Heaven
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2015 - 03:42pm PT
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Maybe I should mention that I have a size 14 foot, and my Mythos are around my exact shoe size if not even a bit too big, I really don't like them for anything but thin cracks, but on the opening moves of Five and Dime I was able to put my toe into the crack before my friends could with their mocasyms.
I wish I could have found a pair of the original technos in my size. My wife has 2 pairs and loves them.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
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Size 14 foot!?! Aren't all cracks thin cracks for you?
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two-shoes
Trad climber
Auberry, CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 03:53pm PT
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The most important factor is the shoes fitting your feet.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Mar 31, 2015 - 04:07pm PT
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Katanas are good in thin cracks and don't have the lace cut/difficult relace problems of Mythos.
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
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I think the Katana would work if they made them big enough that they weren't a tight fit for me, but unfortunately the biggest they make is a 46, which is a sport climbing fit for me. . .I hate my feet.
The TC Pro is THE shoe for most everyone I know. . .but everything around here is vertical to slabby.
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2015 - 04:41pm PT
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Not really for thin cracks, but is the Evolv Addict pretty much an exact copy of the Mocasym? I've seen those in my size for super cheap.
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Brian
climber
California
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Mar 31, 2015 - 05:22pm PT
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Mocs (or Supermocs, if you can find 'em) are the best for thin cracks. Be sure to size for flat toes, which can take some doing given the significant stretch that occurs breaking in Mocs.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Mar 31, 2015 - 05:37pm PT
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Boreal high tops circa 1985.....
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 31, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
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Cobras
Old school Ninjas
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Mar 31, 2015 - 06:09pm PT
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The advantage of clunky-toed shoes in thin cracks is, you can say "screw this, let's go do that hand crack one" much sooner.
(And aren't the opening moves on F&D juggy knobs? I thought I remembered getting halfway up before yelling "screw this, . . .")
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thebravecowboy
climber
Greyrock, CO
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Mar 31, 2015 - 07:05pm PT
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copperheads
Yes. Mine are lookin' a out as sorry as that squirrel out in the gutter, but they are keepers nonetheless
And yeah, the TCs are kinda neglected of the shoes in my quiver, for some reason (shh, they fall apart pretty quick)
^this may or may not relate to inverting on some sharp cracks.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 31, 2015 - 07:07pm PT
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The Scarpa Techno, a third endorsement. Of course, as with anything good, they stopped making them. The new Techno is a good shoe but not for thin cracks.
The myth of the Mythos has always puzzled me.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
therealmccoy from Nevada City
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Mar 31, 2015 - 08:55pm PT
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They work great for me, but I have never climbed anything "hard" so I feel like its hard to say.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Mar 31, 2015 - 09:35pm PT
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Aces
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susu
Trad climber
East Bay, CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 11:04pm PT
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Another vote for Muira. They aren't torture for multi pitch either.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 11:07pm PT
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A fourth for the techno. Mythos have never been a favorite of mine for anything.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 11:17pm PT
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Basically, the mythos is too soft for most, but having a midsole put in during a resole would almost make a syncro out of it. I had Barrys do that to the first gen dominator and was my favoritest shoe for years until putrescence set in.
Never thought the techno, muira, or even TC pro were bad. Lots of people like the moccasym for cracks, but its a bit of a cult following. I love my mocs, but not for cracks.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 31, 2015 - 11:27pm PT
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Definitely prefer the new techno to the old myself, but you go with what fits and feels good.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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The crux of this thing for the OP is the same as mine; size 14 eeee feet. (Well, maybe not the eeee part.) That translates to a size 48 EU, maybe a 47+. Just finding a shoe in that size is a pain in the ass, much less getting on that does what you want. My Mythos turn into flip flops within 3 months. They still work, but all the stiffness is gone. My feet are so wide though, that I've stretched them out a bit and that has reshaped the tip of the shoe to a tight point that works pretty good in finger cracks. I would love to find something better (that fits me) though.
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BuddhaStalin
climber
Truckee, CA
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Send your floppy mythos to Barrys and ask him for a midsole addition, he might still do them.....is Barrys still around?
Seems like scarpa is one of the few that makes shoes that big.
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skitch
Gym climber
Bend Or
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2015 - 07:47am PT
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Ed: let me know if you ever see the techno in a 48, I have an ebay alert for "14 climbing shoes" and have never been alerted with anything I would actually buy.
The rubber room and Yosemite bum can add a midsole, Yosemite bum will cost you around $60, the rubber room will charge around what a new pair of shoes would cost.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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is Barrys still around?
two-shoes says so...
I have recently received newly repaired rands on my Legends and Kaukulators... wonderful work well worth the wait
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Kalkulators have their place and thin cracks isn't one of them. When a crack gets down to red camalot size the toe profile is critical.
I go so far as to be bevel the lateral edge with a dremel tool to thin it down. In thin cracks you drop your knee so that you can present the shoe in it's narrowest configuration which means that the lateral edge will be the weight bearing side. Also, consider that the lateral edge need not be as thick as the medial because it is rarely used for edging.
Length is also important. You want zero knuckling of the toe, the foot must be totally flat.
When buying shoes for thin cracks make sure that:
they fit comfortably
they allow the foot to lie completely flat
they have a low, sculpted toe profile
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Skitch- Try out the new Anasazi Pinks dude. I just got a pair. Love em for slab and they have a low toe profile. I haven't stuck em in any thin stuff yet but my old pair were the cat's ass for that.
The new ones are stiffer too which would be good for jamming. They come in up to size 15!
http://fiveten.com/products/footwear-detail/14522-anasazi-lace-the-pink#tab3
The other shoe i've had success with is it's cousin the Vcs. It's basically a velcro version.
Signed
Size 13
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couchmaster
climber
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Size 14? Whoh! At that size, you'd be better off grabbing 2 cows, stuffing your feet up their asses, offing them and walking over to Locker the resoler to slap some 5.10 rubber on the bottoms of those big leather ballons. Bam, done.
Cosmic will show up with a photoshop of this method soon I suspect.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Cows?!?!??? What's the matter with you? Goats are much more sure footed.....
Hey Mike!! Did your pinks stretch at all; maybe just a little? I need to try a pair of those on to check 'em out. With my wide feet, I'm thinking maybe I can "modify" the toe profile a bit to get them in the thin stuff.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Ya they're stretching a bit. Five Tens are a wider last too and the toe is already pointy. Size em comfy Chris.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Cool Mike! After my feet are done with them, they will have an even lower toe profile. But they gotta fit right.
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| Messages 1 - 34 of total 34 in this topic |
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