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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 5, 2015 - 01:40pm PT
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This gem was posted on MP on a topic about Cochise where the newlings are bitching about old bolted routes:
Generally speaking the more intelligent a person the less likely they are to risk life and limb. That being said wouldn't that mean the runout scarefests are already "dumbed down to the ability of the lowest common denominator"?
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jonnyrig
climber
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Isn't everything a runout when your a noob?
Meaning, if you decide to try climbing, you're already the lowest denominator.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Isn't everything a runout when your a noob?
No, it's not until you really know what's going on that you get smart enough to get scared. At least that's how it was for me.
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Thanks Healyje.
Funniest thing I've read today.
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jonnyrig
climber
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so... if you start out scared and continue anyway, are you bold? or just dumb?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Generally speaking the more intelligent a person the less likely they are to risk life and limb.
It's got nothing to do with intelligence. It's all about sanity. Most of those runout scarefests were put up, and subsequently climbed by, people who were very intelligent. And also batshit crazy.
A lot of us here fit that description.
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Rock!...oopsie.
Trad climber
the pitch above you
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so... if you start out scared and continue anyway, are you bold? or just dumb?
Based on reading the taco, I believe this is entirely outcome dependent. If you top out you are a bold hero. If you fall, you were an incompetent dimwit that should have known better.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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No, it's not until you really know what's going on that you get smart enough to get scared. At least that's how it was for me.
You speak much truth there, Gary. My first leads were chimneys - totally unprotected - but where I felt secure. I was much more frightened leading a 5.0 face than a 5.7 chimney. That changed after I spent a lot of time bouldering, and too little time doing chimneys. Only then did I realize that I could fall, and the consequences could be, well, grave.
John
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Runouts do smart people
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jonnyrig
climber
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I believe this is entirely outcome dependent. If you top out you are a bold hero. If you fall, you were an incompetent dimwit that should have known better.
I was just thinking that...
Get a mentor!
shortly followed by:
Sack up!
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Jones in LA
Mountain climber
Tarzana, California
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ive been climbing with a group doing tons of rad development in the stronghold. really stoked to see new lines going up in more obscure areas way in the back on the west seide.
we are notticing though that theirs allot of random bolts scattered around that basically dont look completed.
This is precious beyond words. New School meets Old School!
Full disclosure: the days of scaring myself on those 'un-completed' routes are pretty much over. I now tend to gravitate to the new, 'rad' routes.
Rich Jones
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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So flogging a bunch of clip-ups is like gobbling smart pills?
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Johnnyrig, your post reminds me of some other nuggets:
"Always climb with someone more experienced than you." The Mountaineering Handbook by Casewit and Pownall (I really think Dick had very little to do with it) gave us this gem. Query: What is the largest size possible of a climbing party if everyone followed this rule? Answer: zero.
And then, from Tom Patey who, sad to say, had his humorous definitions come true:
Beginner: Someone (often dead) who should be kept away from the mountains at all cost
Veteran Climber: Someone whose death was inevitable.
John
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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So all runout routes were put up by dumb people?
Awesome. I'm a friggin' idiot!!
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dirt claud
Social climber
san diego,ca
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Wow, all the topics over at MP forum are about climbing, well that's not fun, what gives? :)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Ok, you guys win, Ill stop training front levers and start doing sphincter crunches.
Priceless.
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son of stan
Boulder climber
San Jose CA
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Smart people top rope.
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skitch
climber
East of Heaven
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Isn't that why all the old-schoolers smoke a bowl before climbing? Gotta dumb themselves down enough to do the run-outs. . .
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Thanks Healyje.
Funniest thing I've read today.
Ditto. Still laughing.
edit: Warbler - well put.
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