Smart people don't do runouts...

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 47 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Mar 5, 2015 - 03:42pm PT
poppycock means the premise in the argument is horsesh#t, but still fun to read. :)
WyoRockMan

climber
Flank of the Big Horns
Mar 5, 2015 - 03:44pm PT
poppycock means the premise in the argument is horsesh#t

Balderdash!
Rock!...oopsie.

Trad climber
the pitch above you
Mar 5, 2015 - 04:10pm PT
a basic aspect of judging someone's intelligence is this - a person of lesser intelligence is not intelligent enough to understand the complexities and nuance of the person of greater intelligence's thought processes, and often thinks that person is crazy, weird, arrogant, or even less intelligent than they are.
...
Dude's a pinhead.

Uh, careful there. You sure you understand the nuances of this guy's thinking?

Actually, I'd bet you do and then some, but I can't resist pokin' at ya for serving up such a softball.
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Mar 5, 2015 - 05:32pm PT
What the person who has that mentality in the OP doesn't understand is the theory of relativity of grades.
I can climb 10 flights of stairs without a bolt and harness and gear because I will not fall walking up a flight of stairs. A route only seems runout to you if even perceive it as "climbing".
I kind of remember a quote from Croft where he said anything easier than ( some 5.11 grade) wasn't really like climbing, it was just like some kind of wierd walking.

So what is an unjustifiable runout for some is a pleasant stroll for others.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 5, 2015 - 06:21pm PT
Smart people do runouts that they don't fall on.
Rock!...oopsie.

Trad climber
the pitch above you
Mar 5, 2015 - 06:33pm PT
Warbler - well played.
Gary

Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
Mar 5, 2015 - 07:13pm PT
You will never experience a quicker high as when finishing some testing hairy runout and clipping something good. It IS more mental than physical most of the time.

Ron's got it. Being in the zone, then the relief on clipping a bolt, or getting in a bomber nut, that's the thing that gets us.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Mar 5, 2015 - 07:19pm PT
Nothing in life is so exhilarating as to be shot at without result.

Winston Churchill

hellroaring

Trad climber
San Francisco
Mar 5, 2015 - 07:55pm PT
Does a male retard climber need a big wheelbarrow then?
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Mar 5, 2015 - 08:15pm PT
Facing down one's fear and rising to the occasion of a challenging runout have been a few of the greatest moments of my life.

guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Mar 5, 2015 - 08:39pm PT
Dumb me, I always thought runouts were where you knocked down a super meal in a classy restaurant and split before paying. Takes a brave and adventurous one to make this a routine.
Flip Flop

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Mar 5, 2015 - 09:58pm PT
There's lots of kinds of smarts.
Climbing ain't one.
jgill

Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
Mar 5, 2015 - 10:24pm PT
When you're old you runout of steam.

Been there, done that.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Mar 6, 2015 - 03:32am PT
Hey Kev, are you saying we were not crazy? And, we never got any glory?

I feel ripped off!

Hey John and Kev, is this the sort of thing we talked about when we had lots of steam? I remember major dust-ups, but not a seemingly constant argument of categorization. I was guilty of it as a teenager at Indian Rocks, but I think I had it out of my system by the end of my first year. Maybe it is just internet amplification.
patrick compton

Trad climber
van
Mar 6, 2015 - 05:20am PT
How has the climbing of rocks become a sport filled with the sacless?!
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Mar 6, 2015 - 05:41am PT
Gyms
skcreidc

Social climber
SD, CA
Mar 6, 2015 - 05:44am PT
I can't wait to have some dumb days on the Weeping Wall this summer.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2015 - 09:41am PT
What I find most curious is the general trend of attempting to eliminate risk with the objective of changing climbing from the 'adventure' activity of its past to just another entertainment option (almost skipping the notion of sport altogether in the process).

And even more so that the proponents of this view somehow consider it essential to climbing "progressing" in the future. To me that's about the same as saying building more McDonalds is essential to our culinary advancement.

And an unfortunate side-effect of that 'climbing as entertainment' movement is the inherent and unavoidable 'dulling' of perceptions to the true risk involved with any 'gravity' sport.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2015 - 09:44am PT
And Steve Grossman gets a special callout in the MP thread:

I missed the last Granitica Syndicato festival but last year's was a great one to attend.

Both Steve Grossman and Chip Chace, when talking about a couple of their first ascents, mentioned that the routes in question could use bolts. Chip said that when he was doing this particular ascent he didn't know how to stop and bolt so he fired it instead. Looking back he thought that maybe it would be ok to add a couple of bolts.

I'm not going to do that but maybe it was the mellowing of age and the infusion of wisdom with the years and increasing brittleness of old bones. I don't know.

I do know I have gone back and added bolts to some of my older routes. But it is a slippery slope to pick and choose.
StahlBro

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Mar 6, 2015 - 09:55am PT
It just seems to me that if the bolts or other pro are at natural stances, you should climb between them. Really good routes are in harmony with the stone, and sometimes require that the climber ante up to climb them. I don't understand how someone thinks that is "dumb".
Messages 21 - 40 of total 47 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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