Steve's House of Smoke

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 4, 2007 - 05:39pm PT
Pete- I dislike the sport utility bolts on the Dihedral Wall as much as you do. I didn't feel like sending the Dihedral FA thread off in that direction when you last raised these issues. I always favor the lowest impact option and don't feel that Todd took appropriate action when adequate conventional gear could have been prearranged to allow for the rare free ascent. Todd did what he needed to do too, as always, to bring the route within his own grasp. Someone more able will soon come along and reduce the number of necessary freeclimbing bolts to some acceptable minimum. In the meantime, every passing party in aiders lives with the discontinuity and somebody has to clean up the mess.
Threaded stainless steel inserts or keyhole hangers would have been a less obtrusive drilled anchor option for this situation.

WOS connects with the Horse Chute arch before heading left to the Overseer. It is easy to swing over and check out the 9th pitch on WOS. I did and recall many bwana dimples. Those guys will admit 10 enhancements out of 150 narrow Leeper Logan hooks for the whole route. I bet that you find that many on 9 alone.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Oct 5, 2007 - 08:14am PT
I haven't responded to anything about WoS on the taco for something like a year. But, the gross man just won't let the subject fade into the very obscurity that he and other early detractors claimed was destined to be the fate of the route.

So, let me get this straight, gross man....

Because you can swing over to pitch 9 of WoS and see dimples, that MUST mean that WE did them? So, presumably, we are simply lying when we admit to about 10 modifications (not "dimples" as you keep in-error saying)?

So, what is it? We've denied what you're claiming, and we've clarified forthrightly what we did and did not do. Either we're bold-faced lying about it or we're not. Which is it? If you admit that we're not lying, then you've got nothing more to say on the subject, so you can finally shut up. If you claim that we are lying, I'll see you in court.

What's it going to be?
Ammon

Big Wall climber
El Cap
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2007 - 04:22pm PT

"Ammon knew the route went clean but cut a corner to shave time"

Mimi, you really have no idea what you're talking about. You were not up there, you don't know what I was thinking or feeling and you probably have never even done the route. Your armchair antics are annoying.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 18, 2007 - 05:40pm PT
Well then Ammon,
This is a total re-hash but whatever it takes.....

1.Did you know that the route had been done without hammering?

2.If so, were you unable to do it that way or were you unwilling to take the time to do so? Or what?????

3. While you were laughing at my "seriousness" on your recent ascent of the Zodiac did you or anyone in your party pound when others found it unnecessary to do so. Having done the route hammerless on your prior ascent of the Zodiac with all the mank in situ doesn't actually answer this question directly. How about it, Ammon, just three easy little questions if you would be so obliging.

I haven't done the route either. Are you willing to tell me that I don't know what I am talking about??????

Edit: Oh silly me, I almost forgot. I am still dying to know the location of that Bolt Ladder of Shame that your friends free climbed on the Turning Point. Where was that?????

Your BS and avoidance is beyond annoying, Ammon, and rises to the level of pathetic and disgusting. Just thought you might like to know what I am thinking and feeling up here.

You can run away and snivel post as per usual but you cannot hide on the ST.
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
Aug 20, 2011 - 10:07pm PT
From the original post on this thread back in 2006:

Steve,

The message you are sending to beginner and future climbers is very dangerous. I can easily see parties getting in serious trouble, or possibly dying, by following your ethics.

Just as true today as it was 5 years ago.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 20, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
Graniteclimber how about posting my response if you are going to qoute in isolation?

Ammon and I have come to an understanding long ago and it took a bit of wrangling to get there.
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
Aug 20, 2011 - 10:42pm PT
Which response? This one?

Your BS and avoidance is beyond annoying, Ammon, and rises to the level of pathetic and disgusting. Just thought you might like to know what I am thinking and feeling up here.

You can run away and snivel post as per usual but you cannot hide on the ST.
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
Aug 21, 2011 - 12:15am PT
GC just calls people on their sh#t.......no more, and no less.
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
Aug 21, 2011 - 01:27am PT
Greg, if you want to go back to that fine. Perhaps your adventures in the big ranges have made you careless and complacent.

Rapping of your rope once on an easy crag--that's a mistake. But then rapping of the end of your rope a second time on the same rap... that should have been a reality check.

I think just about every person here except you would be an excellent source of advice on safe rappelling technique.

GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Aug 21, 2011 - 01:31am PT
GC just calls people on their sh#t.......no more, and no less.

online, anonymously.

We get it. Its old shtick. Be positive and influence those around you in a positive way, you won't need to re-hash old drama to find distractions to your own life :)
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Aug 21, 2011 - 02:11am PT
So what have you been up to ?

Same sh#t, different day, I assume.
graniteclimber

Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
Aug 21, 2011 - 02:31am PT
Richard has plenty of experience when it comes to suing people, so I wouldn't test him on this.

Maybe that's why Grossman and Mimi just make stupid insults now, like picking on Kait's mother, instead of saying anything meaningful.

I hope he's worked it out that they're not worth his time.
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