Discussion Topic |
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 14, 2006 - 10:37pm PT
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Steve,
The message you are sending to beginner and future climbers is very dangerous. I can easily see parties getting in serious trouble, or possibly dying, by following your ethics. Getting stuck or retreating on a wall or alpine setting can be very dangerous, as you well know.
Your clean ethics also go against the number 1 rule when you are in the outdoors - be prepared!
Yes, I agree with you, climb clean if its at all possible, even if it takes longer. But you should go up on a wall prepared to replace fixed gear, rivets and bolts. Retreating off the Leaning Tower just because a head blew is a silly game.
I'm sure Werner would agree if he had to rescue your ass, the NPS would charge you for the rescue due to negligence if you got stuck because you didn't have the proper gear.
Cheers!
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Standing Strong
Mountain climber
the other side
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Sep 14, 2006 - 10:42pm PT
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w. o. r. d.
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andanother
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 10:46pm PT
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Ammon
It sounds like you would be better suited to gym climbing.
Stop chipping holds and learn how to climb you f*#king pussy.
It's 2006.
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Sep 14, 2006 - 10:47pm PT
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you just gotta love the internet
(not)
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Sep 14, 2006 - 10:49pm PT
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LOL!!! at andanother
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 10:50pm PT
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We got a guy right now soloing the Tangerine Trip and he wants to bail. But he doesn't know how. He's on the tenth pitch and we have to get him tomorrow.
We fly to the top tomorrow morning and lower a rescuer to him and then lower both the rescuer and the soloist climber to the ground.
The bail option .........
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andanother
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 10:52pm PT
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Sucks to be that guy. But it's still a MILLION times prouder than chipping a hold.
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Sep 14, 2006 - 10:52pm PT
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can't you just lower him a hammer and some pins?
:)
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 14, 2006 - 10:55pm PT
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The first 25 years of wall climbing in Zion there were NO rescues.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 10:56pm PT
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andanother
You're a screwball ...........
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Sep 14, 2006 - 10:56pm PT
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Hey werner just out of curiosity, if this guy is bailing and can't figure it out, how will the park service handle the rescue? Will he be charged?
andanother you actually think it is prouder to be recued than pound a pin. Your a freaking idiot!
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Ouch!
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 10:58pm PT
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"can't you just lower him a hammer and some pins?"
And a spray can of Werner's orange paint. :-))
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Sep 14, 2006 - 10:58pm PT
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Werner...Is he injured?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 14, 2006 - 10:58pm PT
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T2,
how do you get from not pounding a pin to needing a rescue?
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andanother
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 10:59pm PT
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Yeah, you can fail with dignity.
He gave it a go, and he failed. That sucks, but he can chalk it up as part of the learning process and still have some dignity.
You chip a hold, and dignity is no longer in your vocabulary.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:03pm PT
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He's not injured, he just wants off. We tried to tell him to rap but he doesn't think he can. He wants a rescue.
We'll find out the full details tomorrow.
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hobo
climber
PDX
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:06pm PT
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Just a note from a big wall beginner: I think bailing off of a route because you couldn't do it clean is a very proud thing to do. Not that everyone should do it, but if that's your ethic, rad!
Alex
Werner: Are you guys gonna get going in the morning? Id love to come take some pics.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:06pm PT
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That's my point Werner.
When its common knowlege that rescue is an easy out it becomes an even easier out.
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WBraun
climber
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:08pm PT
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In the morning Alex. We probably will lower him to the ground.
Ron I know, but that is the way our world has gone?
We still ultimately don't know his full problem yet. We'll see tomorrow what happens.
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hobo
climber
PDX
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Sep 14, 2006 - 11:10pm PT
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Out of curiosity
Is someone planning on lowering in from the top and simply assisting him in the rappels?
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