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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Oct 31, 2014 - 05:10am PT
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1. Don't die
2. Don't get hurt
3. Don't hurt the climb.
4. Do whatcha like
5. Be honest
Climbski2 nailed it! He wins the thread!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 31, 2014 - 08:21am PT
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So Munge, when do we get to see you having fun climbing?
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2014 - 09:05am PT
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cool dogs only at the crag
Dogs are in fashion. Everyone seems to have one who follows them everywhere.
My solution to reduce crowding at the crags is to shoot all of the dogs. And I love dogs. Have two of them.
BITD, we didn't have money to feed a dog. We practically lived off dog food ourselves.
Ahhh....happy days.
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 31, 2014 - 09:09am PT
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Pre-inspecting, pre-brushing, pre-placing, reinforcing/ enhancing holds, rehearsing moves (to name a few
WTF? You are EXPECTED to do that on FA's now. Jeff Jackson wrote a hilarious (but absolutely true) piece on how to put up a good route.
You gotta read this. I told him that it was a funny piece, and he said it really wasn't funny. It is all true.
So this is how it is today:
http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/tnb-5-ways-to-make-people-love-your-routes
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 31, 2014 - 09:32am PT
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Hanging belays = aid.
As is tape, climbing shoes, clothing, and Chapstick.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Oct 31, 2014 - 09:53am PT
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What is wrong with aid?... and if you are not hanging you obviously are not pushing your ability.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Oct 31, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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You gotta read this. I told him that it was a funny piece, and he said it really wasn't funny. It is all true.
Funny as hell! A satire that is real in too many cases.
OT - When JJ first came on the scene in TX and OK I thought he was a bit of a poseur who sprayed a lot. In time it was apparent he could walk the walk.
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MisterE
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Oct 31, 2014 - 03:40pm PT
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I am pretty sure glueing climbing holds on a blank section is not acceptable.
"Bend Over and Receive" (5.13b) in Cocaine Gully was a real low point in route-setting at Smith Rock - fortunately the route is now gone.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Oct 31, 2014 - 04:35pm PT
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I TR'd a new route into submission. A friend put in anchors at the top so we could quit rigging this jingus-mobile boulder. I doubt I could lead it even if we bolted it.
We should bolt it, unsafely, amirite?
Go ground up and drill from stance - that will solve your problem. Either you get past a bolt or youve got bolts to nowhere and you look bad/sad...Good training for the sac though
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