A Complete List Of Climbing Ethics

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climbski2

Mountain climber

Anchorage AK, Reno NV

Oct 30, 2014 - 09:25am PT

Is it ethical to follow rules?

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Oct 30, 2014 - 10:21am PT

I'm another gate in guy....those gate out folks wear crocs with dress socks.

MisterE

Gym climber

Bishop, CA

Oct 30, 2014 - 10:35am PT

Pink-point = Red-point. WTF?

clinker

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, California

Oct 30, 2014 - 10:44am PT

So my bud Geoff shows up in the meadows with white painters pants and black dress socks wtf? He proclaimed his retro coolness but ended up dubbed "Petered Croft" for the rest of the weekend.

kpinwalla2

Social climber

Oct 30, 2014 - 10:44am PT

When climbing, don't allow your impact on the environment to exceed the cumulative impact of: 1) the industries that created the vehicle that transported you to the crag, 2) the fuel consumed by that vehicle, and 3) the highways on which you drove. In other words, a little chalk on the rock is pretty insignificant compared to everything to which you've already contributed by purchasing a car and driving it.....

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Oct 30, 2014 - 10:55am PT

Sleeping with your partner's girlfriend while he's off fixated on his lame sport project

Is this something we are required to do? Or forbidden to do?

And does it matter if he's trad climbing instead of sport climbing?

And also, does this apply equally to women? Are women required/forbidden to sleep with their partner's boyfriend while she's off on some lame project?

And what if the project is not lame but ultra-cool?

This is all very confusing.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber

Seattle, WA

Oct 30, 2014 - 11:21am PT

Take it from FZ...

Do what you want.

Do what you will.

Just don't mess up your neighbor's thrill.

NutAgain!

Trad climber

South Pasadena, CA

Oct 30, 2014 - 11:40am PT

Turn the other way when your partner has to go?

Don Paul

Big Wall climber

Aurora Colorado

Oct 30, 2014 - 11:40am PT

Don't pee on the belay ledge.

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Oct 30, 2014 - 12:00pm PT

I think Clint's distinction between style and ethics is important.

Personally, I care a lot about climbing ethics, but my only rule for style is "have fun."

Amen! My only personal ethical rule is to know and follow local ethics, although if I can make less of an impact, I will try to do that.

As for style, I aim to avoid yellow pointing.

John

Braunini

Big Wall climber

cupertino

Oct 30, 2014 - 02:44pm PT

only criticize others' style/ethics online

cool dogs only at the crag

try to match other's fashion choices

no grid bolting unless you are a local

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Oct 30, 2014 - 09:22pm PT

no dogs at crag is preferred because some of those dogs are bat sh#t crazy.

Ah, something salient from the Cummins Online Tome:

"For example, the term "free ascent" has perhaps been rendered meaningless. I intended it to mean anything where the (non-fixed) protection was placed free on lead, but the pitch was at least led "yoyo from no hands rests". Of course "yoyo from the belay", "pinkpoint", "redpoint", "flash", and "onsight" are increasingly better styles.

By this definition, Burk's ascent of the Nose is not counted as a "free ascent", because the Great Roof was toproped. However the first ascent of Hall of Mirrors by Cantwell and Burk was counted as a "free ascent" even though some sections of p13 were toproped (clipped on aid, then freed). Then there are the routes like the mid 90s ascents of Lurking Fear, Excalibur, and Muir/Shaft where gear was preplaced on aid. No doubt this was due to the many very hard pitches, to cut down on the time required, to keep things fun and logistically feasible. On the borderline are tactics like splitting pitches or using variations to avoid certain pitches/sections. Hopefully by providing the details, not much value needs to be placed on my usage of "free ascent" -- you can draw your own conclusions. Or better yet, go out and have fun climbing!"

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Oct 30, 2014 - 09:23pm PT

Not writing apologist essays in climbing mags about how certain things are now acceptable or should be acceptable.

Propaganda is never acceptable.

thebravecowboy

climber

walking, resin-stained, towards the goal

Oct 30, 2014 - 09:30pm PT

I TR'd a new route into submission. A friend put in anchors at the top so we could quit rigging this jingus-mobile boulder. I doubt I could lead it even if we bolted it.

We should bolt it, unsafely, amirite?

Big Mike

Trad climber

Oct 30, 2014 - 09:30pm PT

Harding just wanted to have fun and do his thing. Others didn't like that so much.

I find myself in the Harding camp too..

The only real ethic in climbing that matters is how you rack your gear...gate-in or gate-out. Without a doubt the most important ethical decision you can make is to rack gate-in. Gate-out is neither.

Yup!

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Oct 30, 2014 - 09:32pm PT

Gates in on the rack.

Gates out on the harness for draws.

I don't like to conform.

ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber

extraordinaire

Oct 30, 2014 - 09:48pm PT

... RULES!!!!????

I don't see it as rules - more like suggestions.

MH2

climber

Oct 30, 2014 - 10:04pm PT

There is a route on the Campground Wall at Squamish I cleaned and TR auto-belayed. I had a notion that I might get my name in a guide. George from Climb On and Joe Turley and a guy from California bolted and led the route, calling in Ancient Teenagers, unaware of me. I did not like that they broke it into 2 pitches and did not go all the way to the top, but had no basis to complain. Then the hangers disappeared from the bolts. A vexed situation. Both style and ethics are questionable in this case. Biner orientation was impeccable.