Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2014 - 05:48pm PT
|
ironic that this thread would appera on a cali site.
if we're talking single-pitch, and 5.9 and easier, the gunks alone has more single-pitch options than the entire state of california.
hell, devil's lake has more options than the entire state of california.
if we are talking multi-pitch, the dolomites rule all.
|
|
Greg Barnes
climber
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2014 - 06:03pm PT
|
Panic Point - 5.7
(the insanely exposed, vertical jug fest out of the cave on the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face, Smith Rocks)
|
|
richross
Trad climber
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2014 - 07:21pm PT
|
Another from the land of jugs.
Three Vultures third pitch variation, 5.10.
|
|
stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
|
5 Gallon Buckets at Smith.
Somewhat harder, Sea of Holes at Hueco.
|
|
Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2014 - 09:47pm PT
|
Klk needs to expand his horizons. We have acres of knobs and jugs throughout the Sierras on formations that have more climbing that any pissant east coast 'cliff'. From Needles to Tuolumne, Shuteye, Evolutions, Valhalla , Kings, Sequoia, Lovers Leap. Do you understand how large the Sierra Nevada Range is?
Dolomites 121 square miles
Sierra Nevada 24,370 square miles
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Sep 30, 2014 - 09:54pm PT
|
crab.... nice shot from Spanish MT. What do you think about that formation across the Kings? Just left of the Oblesk in your shot.
I think that it's been on my list ever since the trip I took this picture on and it looked even bigger from Tehipite Dome. From what I can tell it's more of a wall than a free climb but I still can't get it off my mind. It's hard to find the time and parter for a trip out there though, as I'm sure you know!
250 ft hand crack with jugs on the side sounds more like a main event than a variation...
|
|
Lulz
Ice climber
North East
|
|
Clint, Directississima goes a tad above 5.8 ;)
Trapps Double Crack, 15-20' of 5.8 followed by sustained 5.7 jams for another 130'.
Near Trapps Gelsa's third pitch?
|
|
ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2014 - 09:28am PT
|
Wow, some great ones here! Maybe when I suggested the 5.8 limit, I was talkin "Old School" 5.8 ;-}
|
|
klk
Trad climber
cali
|
|
Klk needs to expand his horizons. We have acres of knobs and jugs throughout the Sierras on formations that have more climbing that any pissant east coast 'cliff'. From Needles to Tuolumne, Shuteye, Evolutions, Valhalla , Kings, Sequoia, Lovers Leap. Do you understand how large the Sierra Nevada Range is?
been climbing in cali for 30 years. one end to the other. there's a fair bit of good, steep sport climbing, once you get to 5.12. lots of killer steep cracks.
when it comes to vertical and overhanging jug hauls in the 5.0 to 5.9 range, the gunks and dolos smoke us. sorry, but it's true.
remember my introduction to cali climbing-- dragged to a classic jug climb that was described as "way vert"-- 80 degree slab.
|
|
Lulz
Ice climber
North East
|
|
Wow, some great ones here! Maybe when I suggested the 5.8 limit, I was talkin "Old School" 5.8 ;-}
You mean old school New England 5.9+?
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
Last two pitches of Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth offer
stellar 'jugging' with a splitter along the way for sanitation purposes.
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
Imagínate. If you've done it, you know what I'm talking about.
This was just the route I was going to list. Holy mackerel, that last pitch, what a jugfest in the sky.
Got to love the jugs on New Dimensions/Deviations.
Superslacker Highway down at P&J's has some good steep jugs.
Edit: I'm dumb, meant New Diversions/Deviations. Though I do vote for more jugs on New Dimensions, especially that last pitch!
|
|
richross
Trad climber
|
|
Son of Easy O, 5.8
|
|
looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
|
|
Any Shuteye plate-heavy wall. Prime example, Runnel Vision:
It's listed at 5.7, but that's just the first move, rest is 100+ feet of 5.4 knob cruising in one of he most phenomenal settings I've ever been.
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
|
|
New Diversions. Funny I just looked this up on MP and it is now rated 10a. It was 5.8 bitd. Really fun!
|
|
Lulz
Ice climber
North East
|
|
Last moves of Sunburst Arete on Poke-O-Mooshine
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
Second pitch of Kloberdanz is mammorable too.
I'm surprised no one else commented on such a clever pun, Kevin. As stated earlier, much of the sourthern Sierra has superb granite covered with jugs. The Obelisk is truly amazing, and Shuteye, the Balls, Fresno Dome, Charlotte Dome, and many, many other areas have square miles of steep rock covered with huge knobs and pockets.
I chose Dogtooth mainly because it has a much easier approach than the Obelisk, and also has, I am told, the greatest concentration of black quartz in California. In any case, if this thread doesn't whet any climber's appetite, I don't know what climbing would.
John
|
|
guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
|
|
One mans jug is anothers mans crimper...
Crab... a big wall is another mans big free climb. I have been looking to go down that canyon. From the GOD, even from the top of the Cobra, you dont get a good view of that cliff. From your shot, it looks like solid gold.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!