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richross
Trad climber
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Modern Times, 5.8+
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Lulz
Ice climber
North East
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Modern Times, on my fall todo list... another one of those "historic" 5.8s
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Armed and dangerous @ rumny
Extacy @ Seneca
PT @ Poco after Mtn fest.
Dracula @ franks after Mtn fest.
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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put up a route i called jugs revisited at phantom spires.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Yeah, Modern Time - when I did it, somebody told me it was a
"5.8 for 5.10 leaders". :-)
I recall there is a thin 5.10 section on Directississima p1,
but I don't remember anything hard on p2. It had fixed pins when I led it,
which probably helped make it a simple jug haul.
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richross
Trad climber
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Lou on Directissima on way to Modern times.
Modern Times
High Exposure, easy jugs.
Enduro Man 5.11, hard jugs.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Extacy, easy jugs Dracula, easy jugs PT. Sustained jugs
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Camahoo
Trad climber
Pine Ridge
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Jun 12, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
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Tell your fiend he's right. Because he is gate out, everybody knows gate outer's are right most of the time.
I don't know it seems to less altitude gain going Dinky. However, if start at Courtright you could go to the tiger cage area to hang with your gym buddies when you puss out.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 12, 2015 - 01:44pm PT
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Jeremy, the easiest way is from Courtright at the Cliff Lake trailhead. I've approached it from Dinkey Lakes as well, but the hike in is much longer that way.
And to answer a question from much earlier that I just got around to reading, the route Tim and I did in 1976 is to the left of the Beckey route, and to the right of the gulley that splits the face. The pinnacle on the south side of the peak that is so prominent from Cliff Lake is a very enjoyable jugfest in its own right. My only gripe is that the (jug-filled, low angle) off-width at the start of its north arete was a squeeze chimney when I was younger.
John
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jun 12, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
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surrealistic anyone?
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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Jun 12, 2015 - 02:11pm PT
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She's the Bosch, City of Rocks.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Jun 22, 2015 - 08:48pm PT
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[photoid=415559]
I've been around Courtright/Wishon for 25 years before being told of this one. Long live the legend of Brutus of Wyde!
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Jun 22, 2015 - 10:40pm PT
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Was up at Fresno Dome last week. The South Pillar sure was a jug pulling blast!
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jun 23, 2015 - 04:42am PT
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Haven't done too many things that would qualify ... like Reilly said, the top of Snow Creek Wall comes to mind (the last pitches of Orbit, Mary Jane and Outer Space) although it's less than vertical. Also some of the popular climbs at Red Rocks (e.g. Magic Bus, Panty Wall) might qualify (I didn't see them get mentioned ... maybe they're nobody's favorites!) and they do reach verticality ... at least at the very top. And maybe a few things at City of Rocks too (e.g. Swiss Cheese got mentioned although She's the Bosch ... isn't that a 5.11 which is too hard to qualify the OP's criteria?). That's about it for me and I guess I really don't have a favorite. As klk would say: I'm just not the expert on vertical jugfests!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 23, 2015 - 04:58am PT
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Flydude , hope that it's ok that I copied that .
It stands alone as a proud example, Jug Fest central - a must tic
I always say I like big holds at the top??
In honor and respect for
Brutus of Wyde!
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TomT
Trad climber
Aptos.
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Jun 24, 2015 - 09:39am PT
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last pitch of Salathe Wall- approach is difficult
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jun 24, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
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You did say vertical?
She's the Bosch it's 5.11 but it's all big
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