Discussion Topic |
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 30, 2014 - 11:42am PT
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What's your favorite vertical jugfest? (in my mind, to be true jugs it has to be 5.8 at most)
My votes are Alice in Bucketland (Eldo) and Friday's Folly (3rd Flatiron).
I know know that some of you have some good ones in the Gunks.
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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Sep 30, 2014 - 11:52am PT
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face pitch on hobbit book, t meadows
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 30, 2014 - 11:52am PT
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Burnette bolt variation on the Hand formation in Pinnacles National Park.
Steepest 5.7 haul you will find in the park.
Pretty run too.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Sep 30, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
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p2 High E in the Gunks
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 30, 2014 - 12:20pm PT
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I can think of any number of routes on the upper part of Lover's Leap, but even the vertical dike hiking there is no match for the wonderful granite all over the western Sierra near my little town. A route Tim Schiller and I did on the east face of Dogtooth Peak in 1976 was particularly phenomenal, being full of jugs that even put the last pitch of The Hobbit Book to shame.
John
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richross
Trad climber
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Sep 30, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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Bonnie's Roof
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Sep 30, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
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east face of Dogtooth Peak in 1976 was particularly phenomenal, being full of jugs that even put the last pitch of The Hobbit Book to shame
WHAT?!?!
Let's roll!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Sep 30, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
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Redtail Tower on Hoffman Mountain
Follows the left arête of the prominent center redish tower.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 30, 2014 - 01:04pm PT
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JE.... I think I have done that one, Dogtooth has some fine climbing.
Don't know about the 5.8 max limit. Two of my favs are "between nothingness and eternity"... Dome Rock
and "A knob to far".... Punk Rock, Courtright
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 30, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
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What's My Line, Cochise Dome!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 30, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
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Solar Slab
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Sep 30, 2014 - 01:53pm PT
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John,
East face of Dogtooth Peak? Is that left of the Beckey Route?
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Sep 30, 2014 - 02:00pm PT
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Zoo View at Moore's Wall
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Sep 30, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
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I thought Cookie Monster in Red Rocks had more jugs than an issue of Heavy Hangers.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Sep 30, 2014 - 02:12pm PT
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That corridor of jugs on Dogtooth is indeed amazing.
There's a pitch somewhere on New Diversions (the 5th?) in NC wherein you take off from the belay on overhanging jugs into the sky, 5.8 or so and one of those situations where you feel like you should put in gear but really it's much easier to just keep going. Kinda like Dopey Duck.
Imaginate. If you've done it, you know what I'm talking about.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Sep 30, 2014 - 02:30pm PT
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Matt, I think we need to put Zoo View in a different thread: OVER Vertical Jugfest"
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Sep 30, 2014 - 02:58pm PT
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Hands down, no contest, west face of The Obelisk!
Remote tower!
Beautiful base camp!
Only way to reach the summit is technical climbing!
Unreal views down into one of the deepest canyons in the country and across the high sierra!
Solid orange granite!
Giant chicken heads where dog heads would be a better name!
700ft of 5.7 fun!
Ho man, I need to go back, it's essentially all the reasons I climb rolled into one.
Edit: All the suggestions here sound fun, great thread!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 30, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
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crab.... nice shot from Spanish MT. What do you think about that formation across the Kings? Just left of the Oblesk in your shot.
That would be the canyon just east of the GOD....
And the Oblesk is really fun, Jasion and I did a variation to the left, and through a 4th class cave pitch, from rock solid. I never thought of that pitch as a jug haul, cause its a 250 long hand crack with jugs along both sides....
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 30, 2014 - 05:30pm PT
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POD, Pinnacles . . . knobs can be jugs too. Top section of the first pitch of Trough of Justice, Yosemite . . . steep, positive holds on quality stone.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Sep 30, 2014 - 05:48pm PT
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ironic that this thread would appera on a cali site.
if we're talking single-pitch, and 5.9 and easier, the gunks alone has more single-pitch options than the entire state of california.
hell, devil's lake has more options than the entire state of california.
if we are talking multi-pitch, the dolomites rule all.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Sep 30, 2014 - 06:03pm PT
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Panic Point - 5.7
(the insanely exposed, vertical jug fest out of the cave on the Pioneer Route on Monkey Face, Smith Rocks)
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richross
Trad climber
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Sep 30, 2014 - 07:21pm PT
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Another from the land of jugs.
Three Vultures third pitch variation, 5.10.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Sep 30, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
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5 Gallon Buckets at Smith.
Somewhat harder, Sea of Holes at Hueco.
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Flip Flop
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Sep 30, 2014 - 09:47pm PT
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Klk needs to expand his horizons. We have acres of knobs and jugs throughout the Sierras on formations that have more climbing that any pissant east coast 'cliff'. From Needles to Tuolumne, Shuteye, Evolutions, Valhalla , Kings, Sequoia, Lovers Leap. Do you understand how large the Sierra Nevada Range is?
Dolomites 121 square miles
Sierra Nevada 24,370 square miles
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Sep 30, 2014 - 09:54pm PT
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crab.... nice shot from Spanish MT. What do you think about that formation across the Kings? Just left of the Oblesk in your shot.
I think that it's been on my list ever since the trip I took this picture on and it looked even bigger from Tehipite Dome. From what I can tell it's more of a wall than a free climb but I still can't get it off my mind. It's hard to find the time and parter for a trip out there though, as I'm sure you know!
250 ft hand crack with jugs on the side sounds more like a main event than a variation...
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Lulz
Ice climber
North East
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Clint, Directississima goes a tad above 5.8 ;)
Trapps Double Crack, 15-20' of 5.8 followed by sustained 5.7 jams for another 130'.
Near Trapps Gelsa's third pitch?
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2014 - 09:28am PT
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Wow, some great ones here! Maybe when I suggested the 5.8 limit, I was talkin "Old School" 5.8 ;-}
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Klk needs to expand his horizons. We have acres of knobs and jugs throughout the Sierras on formations that have more climbing that any pissant east coast 'cliff'. From Needles to Tuolumne, Shuteye, Evolutions, Valhalla , Kings, Sequoia, Lovers Leap. Do you understand how large the Sierra Nevada Range is?
been climbing in cali for 30 years. one end to the other. there's a fair bit of good, steep sport climbing, once you get to 5.12. lots of killer steep cracks.
when it comes to vertical and overhanging jug hauls in the 5.0 to 5.9 range, the gunks and dolos smoke us. sorry, but it's true.
remember my introduction to cali climbing-- dragged to a classic jug climb that was described as "way vert"-- 80 degree slab.
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Lulz
Ice climber
North East
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Wow, some great ones here! Maybe when I suggested the 5.8 limit, I was talkin "Old School" 5.8 ;-}
You mean old school New England 5.9+?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Last two pitches of Outer Space on Snow Creek Wall, Leavenworth offer
stellar 'jugging' with a splitter along the way for sanitation purposes.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Imagínate. If you've done it, you know what I'm talking about.
This was just the route I was going to list. Holy mackerel, that last pitch, what a jugfest in the sky.
Got to love the jugs on New Dimensions/Deviations.
Superslacker Highway down at P&J's has some good steep jugs.
Edit: I'm dumb, meant New Diversions/Deviations. Though I do vote for more jugs on New Dimensions, especially that last pitch!
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richross
Trad climber
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Son of Easy O, 5.8
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Any Shuteye plate-heavy wall. Prime example, Runnel Vision:
It's listed at 5.7, but that's just the first move, rest is 100+ feet of 5.4 knob cruising in one of he most phenomenal settings I've ever been.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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New Diversions. Funny I just looked this up on MP and it is now rated 10a. It was 5.8 bitd. Really fun!
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Lulz
Ice climber
North East
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Last moves of Sunburst Arete on Poke-O-Mooshine
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Second pitch of Kloberdanz is mammorable too.
I'm surprised no one else commented on such a clever pun, Kevin. As stated earlier, much of the sourthern Sierra has superb granite covered with jugs. The Obelisk is truly amazing, and Shuteye, the Balls, Fresno Dome, Charlotte Dome, and many, many other areas have square miles of steep rock covered with huge knobs and pockets.
I chose Dogtooth mainly because it has a much easier approach than the Obelisk, and also has, I am told, the greatest concentration of black quartz in California. In any case, if this thread doesn't whet any climber's appetite, I don't know what climbing would.
John
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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One mans jug is anothers mans crimper...
Crab... a big wall is another mans big free climb. I have been looking to go down that canyon. From the GOD, even from the top of the Cobra, you dont get a good view of that cliff. From your shot, it looks like solid gold.
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richross
Trad climber
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Modern Times, 5.8+
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Lulz
Ice climber
North East
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Modern Times, on my fall todo list... another one of those "historic" 5.8s
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Armed and dangerous @ rumny
Extacy @ Seneca
PT @ Poco after Mtn fest.
Dracula @ franks after Mtn fest.
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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put up a route i called jugs revisited at phantom spires.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Yeah, Modern Time - when I did it, somebody told me it was a
"5.8 for 5.10 leaders". :-)
I recall there is a thin 5.10 section on Directississima p1,
but I don't remember anything hard on p2. It had fixed pins when I led it,
which probably helped make it a simple jug haul.
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richross
Trad climber
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Lou on Directissima on way to Modern times.
Modern Times
High Exposure, easy jugs.
Enduro Man 5.11, hard jugs.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Extacy, easy jugs Dracula, easy jugs PT. Sustained jugs
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Camahoo
Trad climber
Pine Ridge
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Jun 12, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
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Tell your fiend he's right. Because he is gate out, everybody knows gate outer's are right most of the time.
I don't know it seems to less altitude gain going Dinky. However, if start at Courtright you could go to the tiger cage area to hang with your gym buddies when you puss out.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Jun 12, 2015 - 01:44pm PT
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Jeremy, the easiest way is from Courtright at the Cliff Lake trailhead. I've approached it from Dinkey Lakes as well, but the hike in is much longer that way.
And to answer a question from much earlier that I just got around to reading, the route Tim and I did in 1976 is to the left of the Beckey route, and to the right of the gulley that splits the face. The pinnacle on the south side of the peak that is so prominent from Cliff Lake is a very enjoyable jugfest in its own right. My only gripe is that the (jug-filled, low angle) off-width at the start of its north arete was a squeeze chimney when I was younger.
John
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Jun 12, 2015 - 01:55pm PT
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surrealistic anyone?
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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Jun 12, 2015 - 02:11pm PT
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She's the Bosch, City of Rocks.
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Flydude
Trad climber
Prather, CA
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Jun 22, 2015 - 08:48pm PT
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[photoid=415559]
I've been around Courtright/Wishon for 25 years before being told of this one. Long live the legend of Brutus of Wyde!
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Jun 22, 2015 - 10:40pm PT
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Was up at Fresno Dome last week. The South Pillar sure was a jug pulling blast!
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jun 23, 2015 - 04:42am PT
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Haven't done too many things that would qualify ... like Reilly said, the top of Snow Creek Wall comes to mind (the last pitches of Orbit, Mary Jane and Outer Space) although it's less than vertical. Also some of the popular climbs at Red Rocks (e.g. Magic Bus, Panty Wall) might qualify (I didn't see them get mentioned ... maybe they're nobody's favorites!) and they do reach verticality ... at least at the very top. And maybe a few things at City of Rocks too (e.g. Swiss Cheese got mentioned although She's the Bosch ... isn't that a 5.11 which is too hard to qualify the OP's criteria?). That's about it for me and I guess I really don't have a favorite. As klk would say: I'm just not the expert on vertical jugfests!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jun 23, 2015 - 04:58am PT
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Flydude , hope that it's ok that I copied that .
It stands alone as a proud example, Jug Fest central - a must tic
I always say I like big holds at the top??
In honor and respect for
Brutus of Wyde!
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TomT
Trad climber
Aptos.
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Jun 24, 2015 - 09:39am PT
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last pitch of Salathe Wall- approach is difficult
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jun 24, 2015 - 05:55pm PT
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You did say vertical?
She's the Bosch it's 5.11 but it's all big
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Bad Climber
climber
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Jun 25, 2015 - 05:59am PT
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@Limping:
Holy cow! I've been looking at that in the guide forever. Must. Go. Out. There.
BAd
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Jun 25, 2015 - 06:05am PT
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Hey, if you just wanna talk about cool vertical face climbs I got a ton of favorites (and I'm not even sure She's the Bosch would be on my list).
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