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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 30, 2014 - 11:42am PT
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What's your favorite vertical jugfest? (in my mind, to be true jugs it has to be 5.8 at most)
My votes are Alice in Bucketland (Eldo) and Friday's Folly (3rd Flatiron).
I know know that some of you have some good ones in the Gunks.
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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Sep 30, 2014 - 11:52am PT
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face pitch on hobbit book, t meadows
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 30, 2014 - 11:52am PT
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Burnette bolt variation on the Hand formation in Pinnacles National Park.
Steepest 5.7 haul you will find in the park.
Pretty run too.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Sep 30, 2014 - 12:11pm PT
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p2 High E in the Gunks
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 30, 2014 - 12:20pm PT
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I can think of any number of routes on the upper part of Lover's Leap, but even the vertical dike hiking there is no match for the wonderful granite all over the western Sierra near my little town. A route Tim Schiller and I did on the east face of Dogtooth Peak in 1976 was particularly phenomenal, being full of jugs that even put the last pitch of The Hobbit Book to shame.
John
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richross
Trad climber
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Sep 30, 2014 - 12:40pm PT
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Bonnie's Roof
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Sep 30, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
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east face of Dogtooth Peak in 1976 was particularly phenomenal, being full of jugs that even put the last pitch of The Hobbit Book to shame
WHAT?!?!
Let's roll!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Sep 30, 2014 - 01:01pm PT
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Redtail Tower on Hoffman Mountain
Follows the left arête of the prominent center redish tower.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 30, 2014 - 01:04pm PT
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JE.... I think I have done that one, Dogtooth has some fine climbing.
Don't know about the 5.8 max limit. Two of my favs are "between nothingness and eternity"... Dome Rock
and "A knob to far".... Punk Rock, Courtright
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 30, 2014 - 01:07pm PT
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What's My Line, Cochise Dome!!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Sep 30, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
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Solar Slab
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Sep 30, 2014 - 01:53pm PT
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John,
East face of Dogtooth Peak? Is that left of the Beckey Route?
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Sep 30, 2014 - 02:00pm PT
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Zoo View at Moore's Wall
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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Sep 30, 2014 - 02:03pm PT
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I thought Cookie Monster in Red Rocks had more jugs than an issue of Heavy Hangers.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Sep 30, 2014 - 02:12pm PT
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That corridor of jugs on Dogtooth is indeed amazing.
There's a pitch somewhere on New Diversions (the 5th?) in NC wherein you take off from the belay on overhanging jugs into the sky, 5.8 or so and one of those situations where you feel like you should put in gear but really it's much easier to just keep going. Kinda like Dopey Duck.
Imaginate. If you've done it, you know what I'm talking about.
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RP3
Big Wall climber
Twain Harte
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Sep 30, 2014 - 02:30pm PT
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Matt, I think we need to put Zoo View in a different thread: OVER Vertical Jugfest"
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Sep 30, 2014 - 02:58pm PT
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Hands down, no contest, west face of The Obelisk!
Remote tower!
Beautiful base camp!
Only way to reach the summit is technical climbing!
Unreal views down into one of the deepest canyons in the country and across the high sierra!
Solid orange granite!
Giant chicken heads where dog heads would be a better name!
700ft of 5.7 fun!
Ho man, I need to go back, it's essentially all the reasons I climb rolled into one.
Edit: All the suggestions here sound fun, great thread!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Sep 30, 2014 - 04:14pm PT
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crab.... nice shot from Spanish MT. What do you think about that formation across the Kings? Just left of the Oblesk in your shot.
That would be the canyon just east of the GOD....
And the Oblesk is really fun, Jasion and I did a variation to the left, and through a 4th class cave pitch, from rock solid. I never thought of that pitch as a jug haul, cause its a 250 long hand crack with jugs along both sides....
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Sep 30, 2014 - 05:30pm PT
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POD, Pinnacles . . . knobs can be jugs too. Top section of the first pitch of Trough of Justice, Yosemite . . . steep, positive holds on quality stone.
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