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corniss chopper
Mountain climber
san jose, ca
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Jul 12, 2009 - 04:36am PT
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Feather Peak , south ridge, sustained 3rd class from the bottom to the top. and its a walk off right down to your backpack.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Jul 13, 2009 - 06:16pm PT
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Great thread, one to bookmark.
I'll second what the landlord said up stream: the Cathedral bowl is a great, great day. When I did it, I didn't see another person until I left the Echoes and came to Cathedral, where there were huge numbers of people. I didn't climb Matthes.
Unicorn Peak (4th) -> Althuski (2nd) -> Cockscomb (5th) -> Echo Ridge (4th/5th depending) -> as many Echo Peaks as you're up for (just one, in my case) -> Cathedral.
Of all of these, I thought the Cockscomb had the most intimidating climbing. Going up the E face was 5th class for sure, and exposed. If moving E to W around the range like I was, I think you could drop down off the ridge onto the lower N side of the Cockscomb, then come back around and climb the W face. Looks like the traverse of the N face would be exposed but easy. This is what I'll do next time, anyway, because I won't want to solo that E face again. Starting the day at Tenaya and including Matthes would be phenomenal, but too much/too serious for me.
I've climbed Tenaya five times, absolutely love it. For me, there is a sequence of three moves, on a slabby, rounded lieback flake near the top, that are the most serious part of the climb. Only because of these I'd call it a bit more serious than the N ridge of Conness. Heading out to Columbia Finger (3rd) and Tresidder (4th) is a good way to add some more climbing to the day.
I thought Laurel was pretty forgettable. Edit: and I'm the guy who always loves everything he climbs, but I didn't love Laurel.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jul 13, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
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What!!??
The SE face of Laurel up the main gulley is a great climb! It's a blast.
The first time I went up there I had a light alpine rack and rope, from the description in Croft's book sounded as though it was needed.
Ran into Todd Bibler going up solo with an umbrella! He was up in no time. We got out of the main gulley, met a couple who were coming down and my partner and I decided to retreat also. Taking too long. Slow.
Came back with a group of 4 of us, no gear, solo, stayed in the gulley the whole way, (don't leave the gulley or you will get off route and it won't be fun). Stay in the gulley on solid rock all the way up high until you hit the talis toward the summit. We all had a blast. Mostly class 3 with some class 4. A few very short class 5 moves but no exposure.
Very mixed rock route: Granite, limestone, metamorphic, and if I remember right even a volcanic extrusive rock band?? Been a few years? The rock was solid the whole way if you stay in the main gulley! Hopefully everyone has got it now: stay in the main gulley.
While you are climbing the route you can contemplate BC skiing it in winter. Apperently they do. Not by me.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 15, 2009 - 12:47am PT
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How about the "Diamond" on Two Eagle Pk. in the Palisades,...III 5.6?
Sounds like a solo but the crux for us was 10b thin crack out of a notch up high. Not sure where the 5.6 went?
It was classic though, good exposure, 10+ pitches.
Anyone else done it?
Laurel...mostly limestone if I remember correctly. It was unusual for the Sierra.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 15, 2009 - 01:06am PT
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"anybody done the East Buttress or East Face of Mt. Whitney?"
I few years ago I finally went up there. Up the East face on one day descending the Mountaineers route, next day soloed the East Buttress and down soloed it.
East face was less continuous but more circuitous. I didn't trust my routefinding to downclimb it properly after only being up there once.
I wouldn't suggest downclimbing the East Butt unless you were dialed on downclimbing. I've done a lot of it.
great climbs and not a problem to solo for those who do that sort of thing. Doesn't mean those who don't know the many factors that weigh into such things should go play like that.
Trip report of Bear Creek Spire solo
http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/BearCreekSpireSolo.html
Peace
Karl
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Jul 15, 2009 - 01:17am PT
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Karl AWSOME photos, BUMP Bump! East butt solo, fun.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Currently in San Diego
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Oct 10, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
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I am thinking of doing the south east face of Emerson or the N ridge of Lone Pine Peak...anyone have any beta for the descent of Emerson? Couldnt find a lot in that department.
thanks,
Steve
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aa-lex
climber
Livermore
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Oct 10, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
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I imagine the best descent for Emerson is down the SW gullies towards Loch Leven. I managed to wind my way down the SE gully (between the SE Face and the Paiute Crags), and it ended up being harder than the SW looked from the summit.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Currently in San Diego
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Oct 11, 2009 - 03:30am PT
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Wondering what to expect in terms of snow and ice at this point in the season? Emerson I plan to solo, Cathedral is a possible additional tick, not solo on that one... weather permitting. Axe? Crampons? Snow? Death wish?
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Buju
Trad climber
the range of light
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Oct 11, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
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yup...just walk down the SW face...it is low key, but improbable looking from the summit. have fun! that is one of my favorite climbs
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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That's not Snow Creek. the approach is much longer to Snow Creek anyways.
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billygoat
climber
cruzville
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It's funny how everybody who mentions Emerson always has nice things to say. I climbed it almost 10 years ago and it was a blast. Amazing it's not more popular considering...
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