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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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East ridge of winchell 3rd- 4th class really fun good exposure
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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N. Ridge of Lone Pine Peak is also classic and can be done in a day. With careful route finding you'll probably be able to keep it at around 5.4 and probably leave the rope at home. Quality stuff.
Another fun one is the N. Face of Mt. Ritter (class 3). Kind of like Middle Pal--glacier at the bottom, exposed class 3 higher up. Probably could do it in a long day from the trailhead, but easily in 2.
E. Ridge Red and White Mt (class 3). Again, a long day or two moderate ones.
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Jim Herrington
Mountain climber
New York, NY
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If you want to get on top of Mt. Sill, the North Couloir is easier than the Swiss Arete... I've climbed it unroped, it's 4th class.
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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I'm plum out of novel suggestions, but here's a bump anyways for a nice thread to reference later.
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drdave
Trad climber
SoCal
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The East Buttress on Muir has just OK climbing, but is 4th class and gets you up a 14er.
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Jim Herrington
Mountain climber
New York, NY
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How about the East Arete of Mt. Carl Heller? It's 13,000+ feet, 3rd/4th class. I've never done it, but it's been on my list for years... Looks classic.
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Gene
climber
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Anybody mention Mt. Humphreys?
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enjoimx
Big Wall climber
SLO Cal
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Tenaya peak is worth a rope the first time for sure, if not just for the route finding issue near the top.
Wouldnt solo it the first time like someone mentioned earlier.
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Double D
climber
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Mt. Clark is an easy 2 day'er, ditch to ditch. It's not a 14'er but great exposure with maybe 15 feet of a 5.7 traverse.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Ones on my list that I haven't done but fit your criteria are:
Mt. Morgan (N), Nevahbe Ridge, 3/4 class. Long sweeping rib you can see from 395. Not much of an approach either, just lots of ridge.
Mt. Abbot, N. Face (class 3). Snowfield to class 3 scramble. Supposed to kind of loose but good all the same and easily done in a day.
Mt. Julius Caesar (class 3). The old Roper guide described this as having a "thrilling" class 3 ridge on it, or something to that effect. Roper's usually not wrong on stuff like that so one of these days I'll have to check it out.
Mt. McAdie (class 3). The only thing that's stopped me from doing this is it's in the Whitney area so you need a permit even if you do it in a day.
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salad
climber
Escondido
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North Rib of Tyndall is fun and 3rd class and gets you up a 14er.
Another option if you are in the Abbott area is the East Couloir of Mills(5.5 hrs c2c not pushing it). The Couloir itself is pretty loose, bring a helmet and be the only one on it, but the summit is nice!
Southwest Chute of Thunderbolt (from Bishop Pass) is class 3/4 with the summit block itself being 5.8ish. You could lasso it if you didnt want to boulder it.
My all time fav is the East Ridge of Russell though. The rock is soooo nice.
I'm not a big fan of brining bivy gear for 1 night, so I like to bang out the moderate big ones car to car. I did Tyndall in 11:45 c2c and that was with getting smacked by the altitude.
I think I did Middle Pal in 7:45 and that was with never being in the area before. Made it up to June Lake in time have a birthday dinner with my dad and bro.
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climb_I_must
Social climber
CA
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Tenaya Peak... even if you bring rope, you probably won't bust it out until the last 300'. Very easy. You'd have to try and fall off.
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jhog
climber
south lake tahoe
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Jun 11, 2009 - 12:50am PT
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Yeah man, that's North Peak. I filmed Tom Burt snowboarding that thing for the movie My Own Two Feet (from that same angle).
I enjoyed soloing Teneya Peak in Toulomne. In the guide it says it's 5.5 but Where the 5.5 move was I don't know, it seemed like a mellow scramble up the lookers left ridge. Near the top we walked mere feet from 200' of shear exposure where a vertical amphitheater of granite is. After that we made the mistake of trying to solo The Great White Book 5.6... not a mellow scramble, at least not for me.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Jun 11, 2009 - 01:40am PT
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middle pal 3rd class route is great
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BlueGuy84
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Jul 11, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
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bump...anybody done the East Buttress or East Face of Mt. Whitney?
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 11, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
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i called Bear Creek spire 5.5 in the book because i took two friends on it without a rope and nearly killed them... (sorry brad and dana)
Well of course as everybody knows, fourth class in the sierra means anything up to 5.6, especially if it's Clyde fourth class. You see, there is an entirely different rating system for those fourth class routes. It's secret, and you can only know the true rating by heading up. This is why I bring a rope on fourth class these days, there's no telling what lays in store.
Perfect eh?
By the way, the 5.5 rating on the north arete of BCS is probably right on or even sand bagged, but the rock is good so it's fourth class.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 11, 2009 - 07:25pm PT
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The East Ridge of Russell was nice, mostly second except for a 60' or so step to get on the ridge itself.
The Clyde route on Middle Palisade is the best 3rd / 4th I've done even though we did the normal start to the 3rd class route and mistakenly went up the right hand chute it turned out in retrospect to be cleaner, steeper, much better, and probably safer than the regular route. The subsidiary summit to the north of the true summit was a kick also. About the size of a desk top with a mandatory exposed boulder move.
Don't go down or up the Red Rock route though. That thing is a time bomb of the worst rock I've seen anywhere.
If I did it again I'd do Clyde's from the glacier and go down the regular route.
Laurel looks nice. Gotta put that on the list.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Jul 11, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
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are there any areas of the Sierra which require an ice axe for all or most of the year? I am coming out there in September. Being realistic, what does my timeframe look like? Axe or no axe?
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Jul 12, 2009 - 01:56am PT
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"i called Bear Creek spire 5.5 in the book because i took two friends on it without a rope and nearly killed them... (sorry brad and dana)"
My friend and I did this route in approach shoes with some rope and minimal gear (and minimal experience in the sierras...), and when we got to the summit ridge ended up slippin' and slidin' down some big block, unable to get further. So, like idiots, we rappelled off the other side of the ridge onto the west(?) face. Now in pretty much unknown territory, we had to make an exposed traverse onto a ledge where we could walk off. Looking back on it, the face was super fun despite how terrified we were.
Bring climbing shoes if you aren't comfortable climbing 5.6 in approach shoes.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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doing most of the Cathedral Range peaks
Let us know!