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Clarke Brogger
Mountain climber
Laguna Beach, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 17, 2006 - 01:39pm PT
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What are some fun 3rd-4th class sierra peaks to bag solo in one-two days? talk to me brothers, talk to me sisters.
clarke
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Joe Metz
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 17, 2006 - 01:40pm PT
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East Ridge of Russel - easy and spectacular.
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dank
Trad climber
the pitch above you!
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Aug 17, 2006 - 01:44pm PT
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East Face of Whitney and Southeast Buttress of Cathedral if you're confident with exposure and the grade. Mountaineers Route on Whitney...no problem!
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Clarke Brogger
Mountain climber
Laguna Beach, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2006 - 01:56pm PT
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done those routes already.
ideally some 14'ers, but i'd consider 13'ers as well. drive in sunday night, hike in monday morning, hike out tuesday afternoon. whaddya think?
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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Aug 17, 2006 - 02:32pm PT
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Clyde Route, Bear Creek Spire
Lyell/Mcclure (see Scrambles in the Sierra thread)
Mt. Morrison has an easily done in a day Class 3 route
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Aug 17, 2006 - 02:36pm PT
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NE Ridge of Bear Creek Spire. Saw a 5.5 rating on that recently. When I soloed it, it was called 4th and I thought it was very straightforward.
East Ridge of Mt. Lyell is a nice 3rd/4th scramble with glacier approach that is fine.
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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Aug 17, 2006 - 02:38pm PT
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Don't forget Middle Palisade's regular route. Great route!
Personally, I think that the North ridge of Conness is the best scramble in the Sierra if you are comfortable on a mid-5th terrain. I did not take a rope up that route and never will when I repeat it. The downclimb from the 2nd tower is easy. The rest is even easier.
Misha
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Aug 17, 2006 - 03:09pm PT
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Mt Goode is quite nice
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SamRoberts
climber
Bay Area
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Aug 17, 2006 - 03:40pm PT
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I'll second Misha's choice of Conness, but would start with the north ridge of North Peak first then get onto the Conness route. Nice day with lots of climbing.
SE ridge of Emerson is also good.
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Loom
climber
The White-Board Jungle
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Aug 17, 2006 - 03:54pm PT
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Mt. Conness via the N. Ridge then descend to the S. Face and climb the W. Ridge then return to Saddlebag.
E. Buttress of Mt. Whitney
Swiss Arete of Mt. Sill
E. Ridge of Mt. Humphreys
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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Aug 17, 2006 - 04:03pm PT
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I thought he was askking about 3rd-4th class routes!? :)
East Butt is certainly not 4th class for most of us mortals.
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David
Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
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Aug 17, 2006 - 04:25pm PT
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A lot of chest pounding around here I guess. Unless your just trying to impress us, I'm not sure what the point is of telling someone that Swiss Arete and E.Butt of Whitney are 3-4th class routes.
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Loom
climber
The White-Board Jungle
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Aug 17, 2006 - 04:51pm PT
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5.4 - 5.7 chest pounding???
Those are some of my favorite solos, and I saw the following so I thought he might be up for them.
Re: Fun sierra solos? Aug 17, 2006, 10:44am PST
Author:
dank
Trad climber
From: the pitch above you! East Face of Whitney and Southeast Buttress of Cathedral if you're confident with exposure and the grade. Mountaineers Route on Whitney...no problem!
Re: Fun sierra solos? Aug 17, 2006, 10:56am PST
Author:
Clarke Brogger
Mountain climber
From: Laguna Beach, Ca done those routes already.
ideally some 14'ers, but i'd consider 13'ers as well. drive in sunday night, hike in monday morning, hike out tuesday afternoon. whaddya think?
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Jay
Trad climber
Fort Mill, SC
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Aug 17, 2006 - 05:39pm PT
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Just got back from Tuolumne... West ridge of Conness (did it with my friend Marc) is a good solo, and it's really not 5.6, IMO. Felt more like 5.4 or maybe 5.5. I brought a rope and stoppers but never used em. Good quailty rock gave the green light for a solo ascent. Even though the wind was nasty at times, the heavily featured rock made me feel at ease. Weren't accimated so took we our time, gained the top in roughly 2:45.
The North Ridge (my buddies Tibor and Alan did it) requires a single 60m rope for the rappel, unless you want to down climb exposed 5.7, no other required 5th class moves the whole way, but very exposed 3rd class!
Oh, the Conness glacier is stunningly beautiful right now. Wish I would have seen it a month earlier in the season!
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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Aug 17, 2006 - 05:52pm PT
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5.7 downclimbing on the north ridge of conness!??? It felt like 5.2-5.4 to me. Bomber jams and lots of holds, plus a few face moves. It sounds like they went the wrong way. I am not a strong climber and can't really lead harder than 5.9 trad but that downclimb was eeaaasseeeyy!
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Clarke Brogger
Mountain climber
Laguna Beach, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2006 - 07:04pm PT
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wow! thanks to all. i second misha on middle pal and conness, happily i have already done them. man you guys gave me a season's worth for sure. thanks again.
too bad there aren't some funner lines up Langley.
peace.
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Clarke Brogger
Mountain climber
Laguna Beach, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2006 - 07:04pm PT
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a little bit of a shift... any fun solos at tahquitz or suicide that you'd recommend (the longer the better).
peace.
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Ultrabiker
Ice climber
Eastside
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Aug 17, 2006 - 07:12pm PT
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Here's an AI4ish 600' Alpine Ice blast with an hour and half approach!
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Clarke Brogger
Mountain climber
Laguna Beach, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2006 - 07:15pm PT
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is that snow creek?
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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Aug 17, 2006 - 07:29pm PT
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Ultrabiker, is that shot of North Peak from this season? Last year?
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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Aug 17, 2006 - 07:30pm PT
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Hey, that's North Peak... no?
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Ultrabiker
Ice climber
Eastside
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Aug 17, 2006 - 07:34pm PT
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East Couloir, NP last season at this time of the year. Heard that it is "in" and is soooooooooo much fun...steeper than the busy West Couloir and more challenging.
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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Aug 17, 2006 - 07:39pm PT
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Clarke - have you already done NW Buttress of Tenaya? If not, you should. No rope is needed if you were comfortable on the North ridge of Conness. Another surprisingly good scramble was the NW Ridge of Thunderbolt Peak. I think that it is rated 5.5 but we did not use a rope except for one rappel. What about North Face of Darwin? Can be done in a one long day or two casual days.
Then of course there is a regular route on Humphreys. Doable in a day but I won't pass up an opportunity to sleep in Humphreys Basin. This route is *the* definition of Class 4.
Misha
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Aug 17, 2006 - 08:16pm PT
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North Ridge of Lone Pine Peak (a couple 5.6 heads-up moves down lower but nothing tricky)
West Ridge of Conness
East Ridge of Russell (seriously cool exposure)
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J$
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 17, 2006 - 08:34pm PT
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The SE Face of Mt. Emerson is a good solo. I wouldn't exactly call it a classic, but it's mostly fun class 3-4 moves on decent rock + a couple 5.easy moves in the first hundred feet. The ridge to the summit is very fun and truly knife-edge in a few spots. The descent down the south-facing gully is crummy, loose sand and scree in a lot of spots...perhaps it's better to continue along the west ridge.
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J$
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Aug 17, 2006 - 08:37pm PT
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Also, I'm surprised no one mentioned Laurel Mountain. Haven't done this one yet, but Croft has it in his guide as a *great* climb.
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Aug 17, 2006 - 08:43pm PT
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Laurel is awesome. The climb itself and the descent as well.
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funkness
climber
Ca.
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Aug 17, 2006 - 08:45pm PT
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"any fun solos at tahquitz or suicide that you'd recommend (the longer the better)."
There's no good 3rd or 4th class routes there, so you should try The Vampire.
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Clarke Brogger
Mountain climber
Laguna Beach, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2006 - 10:12pm PT
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i love you guys.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
California somewhere
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Aug 17, 2006 - 11:38pm PT
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Clark, here's a view along the east ridge of Russell. When I did it, it was early in the season so that snow is probably long gone at this time of year.
3rd class ridgeline climbing with that kind of exposure...not to mention killer views of Whitney, etc...doesn't get any better.
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Dapper Dan
climber
an 89' honda accord
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Aug 23, 2006 - 01:12am PT
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bump , i'm taking notes....
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Dapper Dan
climber
Menlo Park
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May 31, 2009 - 08:06pm PT
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Bump , Come on !
How about good 5.6 solos ?
Is swiss arete scary as a solo ?
How about that 5.7 on temple crag , exposed , loose?
Also , how about the 5.7 up the matterhorn (forgot the name) ,
how does that one go ...?
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adam d
climber
CA
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May 31, 2009 - 10:35pm PT
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ditto on the Laurel Mtn Route
maybe I missed it but has no one said Matthes?!
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Dapper Dan
climber
Menlo Park
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May 31, 2009 - 11:18pm PT
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Hey Adam , can you comment on the difficulty on the down climbing on the second half of Mathes Crest ?
I have heard everything from no big deal to possible 5.8 5.9 downclimbing .
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Bargainhunter
Mountain climber
Central California
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May 31, 2009 - 11:28pm PT
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Black Kaweah has been done from the Mineral King parking lot round trip in 15.5 hours. I'm going there next week...
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adam d
climber
CA
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May 31, 2009 - 11:52pm PT
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downclimbing Matthes (ie climbing off at the N end)...a little strange in spots but more just weird rather than something to put a rating on. Definitely NOT 5.8-9.
The step down off the amazing breaking wave portion near the N end is a little hair raising but having a rope wouldn't really help you much...no cracks anywhere nearby that I saw. If you would be comfortable ropeless on Cathedral then I'd think Matthes should be fun as well.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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May 31, 2009 - 11:56pm PT
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Carl Heller e. Ridge, best class 3/4 solo in the range.
The approach, well, that's another story.
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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May 31, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
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Well, Heck, It's the Sierra!
Those are all over.....
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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NE Arete of Mt. Haeckel
Mt. Morgan (S) traverse (via Little Lakes Pk.)
Mt. Tyndall, N. Rib
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Buju
Trad climber
the range of light
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i second J$'s recomendation of Emerson. one of the coolest mountains i have ever climbed. short approach (3 mi) and fun climbing throughout. i think secor calls it 5.4. but the 5.4 is a SOLID low angle crack right at the bottom.
like any mountain solo, you can make it as hard as you want...
*Haeckel looks BITCHIN! cant wait to do it!
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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East ridge of winchell 3rd- 4th class really fun good exposure
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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N. Ridge of Lone Pine Peak is also classic and can be done in a day. With careful route finding you'll probably be able to keep it at around 5.4 and probably leave the rope at home. Quality stuff.
Another fun one is the N. Face of Mt. Ritter (class 3). Kind of like Middle Pal--glacier at the bottom, exposed class 3 higher up. Probably could do it in a long day from the trailhead, but easily in 2.
E. Ridge Red and White Mt (class 3). Again, a long day or two moderate ones.
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Jim Herrington
Mountain climber
New York, NY
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If you want to get on top of Mt. Sill, the North Couloir is easier than the Swiss Arete... I've climbed it unroped, it's 4th class.
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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I'm plum out of novel suggestions, but here's a bump anyways for a nice thread to reference later.
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drdave
Trad climber
SoCal
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The East Buttress on Muir has just OK climbing, but is 4th class and gets you up a 14er.
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Jim Herrington
Mountain climber
New York, NY
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How about the East Arete of Mt. Carl Heller? It's 13,000+ feet, 3rd/4th class. I've never done it, but it's been on my list for years... Looks classic.
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Gene
climber
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Anybody mention Mt. Humphreys?
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enjoimx
Big Wall climber
SLO Cal
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Tenaya peak is worth a rope the first time for sure, if not just for the route finding issue near the top.
Wouldnt solo it the first time like someone mentioned earlier.
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Double D
climber
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Mt. Clark is an easy 2 day'er, ditch to ditch. It's not a 14'er but great exposure with maybe 15 feet of a 5.7 traverse.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Ones on my list that I haven't done but fit your criteria are:
Mt. Morgan (N), Nevahbe Ridge, 3/4 class. Long sweeping rib you can see from 395. Not much of an approach either, just lots of ridge.
Mt. Abbot, N. Face (class 3). Snowfield to class 3 scramble. Supposed to kind of loose but good all the same and easily done in a day.
Mt. Julius Caesar (class 3). The old Roper guide described this as having a "thrilling" class 3 ridge on it, or something to that effect. Roper's usually not wrong on stuff like that so one of these days I'll have to check it out.
Mt. McAdie (class 3). The only thing that's stopped me from doing this is it's in the Whitney area so you need a permit even if you do it in a day.
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salad
climber
Escondido
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North Rib of Tyndall is fun and 3rd class and gets you up a 14er.
Another option if you are in the Abbott area is the East Couloir of Mills(5.5 hrs c2c not pushing it). The Couloir itself is pretty loose, bring a helmet and be the only one on it, but the summit is nice!
Southwest Chute of Thunderbolt (from Bishop Pass) is class 3/4 with the summit block itself being 5.8ish. You could lasso it if you didnt want to boulder it.
My all time fav is the East Ridge of Russell though. The rock is soooo nice.
I'm not a big fan of brining bivy gear for 1 night, so I like to bang out the moderate big ones car to car. I did Tyndall in 11:45 c2c and that was with getting smacked by the altitude.
I think I did Middle Pal in 7:45 and that was with never being in the area before. Made it up to June Lake in time have a birthday dinner with my dad and bro.
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climb_I_must
Social climber
CA
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Tenaya Peak... even if you bring rope, you probably won't bust it out until the last 300'. Very easy. You'd have to try and fall off.
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jhog
climber
south lake tahoe
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Jun 11, 2009 - 12:50am PT
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Yeah man, that's North Peak. I filmed Tom Burt snowboarding that thing for the movie My Own Two Feet (from that same angle).
I enjoyed soloing Teneya Peak in Toulomne. In the guide it says it's 5.5 but Where the 5.5 move was I don't know, it seemed like a mellow scramble up the lookers left ridge. Near the top we walked mere feet from 200' of shear exposure where a vertical amphitheater of granite is. After that we made the mistake of trying to solo The Great White Book 5.6... not a mellow scramble, at least not for me.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Jun 11, 2009 - 01:40am PT
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middle pal 3rd class route is great
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BlueGuy84
Trad climber
San Luis Obispo, CA
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Jul 11, 2009 - 04:05pm PT
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bump...anybody done the East Buttress or East Face of Mt. Whitney?
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Jul 11, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
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i called Bear Creek spire 5.5 in the book because i took two friends on it without a rope and nearly killed them... (sorry brad and dana)
Well of course as everybody knows, fourth class in the sierra means anything up to 5.6, especially if it's Clyde fourth class. You see, there is an entirely different rating system for those fourth class routes. It's secret, and you can only know the true rating by heading up. This is why I bring a rope on fourth class these days, there's no telling what lays in store.
Perfect eh?
By the way, the 5.5 rating on the north arete of BCS is probably right on or even sand bagged, but the rock is good so it's fourth class.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Jul 11, 2009 - 07:25pm PT
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The East Ridge of Russell was nice, mostly second except for a 60' or so step to get on the ridge itself.
The Clyde route on Middle Palisade is the best 3rd / 4th I've done even though we did the normal start to the 3rd class route and mistakenly went up the right hand chute it turned out in retrospect to be cleaner, steeper, much better, and probably safer than the regular route. The subsidiary summit to the north of the true summit was a kick also. About the size of a desk top with a mandatory exposed boulder move.
Don't go down or up the Red Rock route though. That thing is a time bomb of the worst rock I've seen anywhere.
If I did it again I'd do Clyde's from the glacier and go down the regular route.
Laurel looks nice. Gotta put that on the list.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Jul 11, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
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are there any areas of the Sierra which require an ice axe for all or most of the year? I am coming out there in September. Being realistic, what does my timeframe look like? Axe or no axe?
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jfailing
Trad climber
Lone Pine
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Jul 12, 2009 - 01:56am PT
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"i called Bear Creek spire 5.5 in the book because i took two friends on it without a rope and nearly killed them... (sorry brad and dana)"
My friend and I did this route in approach shoes with some rope and minimal gear (and minimal experience in the sierras...), and when we got to the summit ridge ended up slippin' and slidin' down some big block, unable to get further. So, like idiots, we rappelled off the other side of the ridge onto the west(?) face. Now in pretty much unknown territory, we had to make an exposed traverse onto a ledge where we could walk off. Looking back on it, the face was super fun despite how terrified we were.
Bring climbing shoes if you aren't comfortable climbing 5.6 in approach shoes.
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corniss chopper
Mountain climber
san jose, ca
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Jul 12, 2009 - 04:36am PT
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Feather Peak , south ridge, sustained 3rd class from the bottom to the top. and its a walk off right down to your backpack.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Jul 13, 2009 - 06:16pm PT
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Great thread, one to bookmark.
I'll second what the landlord said up stream: the Cathedral bowl is a great, great day. When I did it, I didn't see another person until I left the Echoes and came to Cathedral, where there were huge numbers of people. I didn't climb Matthes.
Unicorn Peak (4th) -> Althuski (2nd) -> Cockscomb (5th) -> Echo Ridge (4th/5th depending) -> as many Echo Peaks as you're up for (just one, in my case) -> Cathedral.
Of all of these, I thought the Cockscomb had the most intimidating climbing. Going up the E face was 5th class for sure, and exposed. If moving E to W around the range like I was, I think you could drop down off the ridge onto the lower N side of the Cockscomb, then come back around and climb the W face. Looks like the traverse of the N face would be exposed but easy. This is what I'll do next time, anyway, because I won't want to solo that E face again. Starting the day at Tenaya and including Matthes would be phenomenal, but too much/too serious for me.
I've climbed Tenaya five times, absolutely love it. For me, there is a sequence of three moves, on a slabby, rounded lieback flake near the top, that are the most serious part of the climb. Only because of these I'd call it a bit more serious than the N ridge of Conness. Heading out to Columbia Finger (3rd) and Tresidder (4th) is a good way to add some more climbing to the day.
I thought Laurel was pretty forgettable. Edit: and I'm the guy who always loves everything he climbs, but I didn't love Laurel.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Jul 13, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
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What!!??
The SE face of Laurel up the main gulley is a great climb! It's a blast.
The first time I went up there I had a light alpine rack and rope, from the description in Croft's book sounded as though it was needed.
Ran into Todd Bibler going up solo with an umbrella! He was up in no time. We got out of the main gulley, met a couple who were coming down and my partner and I decided to retreat also. Taking too long. Slow.
Came back with a group of 4 of us, no gear, solo, stayed in the gulley the whole way, (don't leave the gulley or you will get off route and it won't be fun). Stay in the gulley on solid rock all the way up high until you hit the talis toward the summit. We all had a blast. Mostly class 3 with some class 4. A few very short class 5 moves but no exposure.
Very mixed rock route: Granite, limestone, metamorphic, and if I remember right even a volcanic extrusive rock band?? Been a few years? The rock was solid the whole way if you stay in the main gulley! Hopefully everyone has got it now: stay in the main gulley.
While you are climbing the route you can contemplate BC skiing it in winter. Apperently they do. Not by me.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 15, 2009 - 12:47am PT
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How about the "Diamond" on Two Eagle Pk. in the Palisades,...III 5.6?
Sounds like a solo but the crux for us was 10b thin crack out of a notch up high. Not sure where the 5.6 went?
It was classic though, good exposure, 10+ pitches.
Anyone else done it?
Laurel...mostly limestone if I remember correctly. It was unusual for the Sierra.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jul 15, 2009 - 01:06am PT
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"anybody done the East Buttress or East Face of Mt. Whitney?"
I few years ago I finally went up there. Up the East face on one day descending the Mountaineers route, next day soloed the East Buttress and down soloed it.
East face was less continuous but more circuitous. I didn't trust my routefinding to downclimb it properly after only being up there once.
I wouldn't suggest downclimbing the East Butt unless you were dialed on downclimbing. I've done a lot of it.
great climbs and not a problem to solo for those who do that sort of thing. Doesn't mean those who don't know the many factors that weigh into such things should go play like that.
Trip report of Bear Creek Spire solo
http://www.yosemiteclimber.com/BearCreekSpireSolo.html
Peace
Karl
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Fogarty
climber
Back in time..
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Jul 15, 2009 - 01:17am PT
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Karl AWSOME photos, BUMP Bump! East butt solo, fun.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Currently in San Diego
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Oct 10, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
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I am thinking of doing the south east face of Emerson or the N ridge of Lone Pine Peak...anyone have any beta for the descent of Emerson? Couldnt find a lot in that department.
thanks,
Steve
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aa-lex
climber
Livermore
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Oct 10, 2009 - 08:21pm PT
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I imagine the best descent for Emerson is down the SW gullies towards Loch Leven. I managed to wind my way down the SE gully (between the SE Face and the Paiute Crags), and it ended up being harder than the SW looked from the summit.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
Currently in San Diego
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Oct 11, 2009 - 03:30am PT
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Wondering what to expect in terms of snow and ice at this point in the season? Emerson I plan to solo, Cathedral is a possible additional tick, not solo on that one... weather permitting. Axe? Crampons? Snow? Death wish?
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Buju
Trad climber
the range of light
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Oct 11, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
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yup...just walk down the SW face...it is low key, but improbable looking from the summit. have fun! that is one of my favorite climbs
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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That's not Snow Creek. the approach is much longer to Snow Creek anyways.
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billygoat
climber
cruzville
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It's funny how everybody who mentions Emerson always has nice things to say. I climbed it almost 10 years ago and it was a blast. Amazing it's not more popular considering...
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SuperTopo on the Web
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doing most of the Cathedral Range peaks
Let us know!