Rock Climber's Training Manual


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Gunks Jesse

Trad climber
Shawangunk, NY
Aug 12, 2015 - 08:20am PT
So I have been using the book and see results, but I'm working on the basic fitness and weight management part right now. I'm looking at how I can really benefit from the 18 week training cycle that incorporates campus and hang board, but I don't have anywhere to set the stuff up. Does anyone have any suggestions on common things (not door frame trim) that can be used to simulate a campus or hang board?

Or am I just crazy?

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 12, 2015 - 08:31am PT
Jesse, I trained one hangboard cycle of weighted hangs on nothing but the smallest metolius campus rung screwed into the studs above a door frame (had just moved house).

Any rounded piece of wood trim about a pad deep and a bit wider than shoulder width will work, medium or small campus rungs works really well for that, and they are only about 2" tall, so will fit over virtually any doorframe.

I do my campusing in the gyms, have never built my own since I
only do a total of 8-10 campus sessions in any year. A lot of the ones is gyms kind of suck though - no intermediate spaced rungs making progress hard to gauge on max pulls, sharp bottom edge and a 90 degree undercut that will shred your thighs. I always change into old pants, duct tape the bottom edge of the board, and still look like I'd been lashed across the quads.

Gym climber
Aug 12, 2015 - 08:36am PT
I like to judge books by their cover.
And that is one baddass cover!

Thanks for the tip.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Aug 12, 2015 - 10:32am PT
I used the book and it taught me a lot so far. Unfortunately there is not much on practicing techniques, but the book is golden for strength training. Can't wait for the fall, so I could actually get on some sort of a schedule. It is hard to during the summer when you try to climb as much as possible.

If anyone is looking for AWESOME podcasts that incorporate training tips etc, check out ones on training beta. I like pretty much all of them. Good stuff.

Training idea is easy - intense session, good nutrition, good rest and consistency. What is hard is complying with schedule :)


Social climber
Joshua Tree
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2015 - 06:26pm PT
"a rare week off of all things climbing"

Good chance that's why you're battling injuries so often. That "rare" week off should be about 4 times a year. I won't train any specific quality (i.e. power, endurance, etc) more than 3.5 weeks before switching focus, and take 7-10 days off at the end of the every cycle (cycle runs 10-15 weeks for me, depending on the upcoming season...e.g. my bouldering season cycles are shorter because I don't train pure endurance in that cycle).

I also use a "wave" style loading progression in the micro-cycles and a transition week between micros that reduces volume. Could spent a lot of time spraying about how well this is working for the kids I coach (works for me too, but sample size of 1 isn't compelling, sample size of 15 otoh...)

Dec 18, 2015 - 11:08pm PT
Quite the set up Mr. Hartouni, thanks for sharing
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