Rock Climber's Training Manual

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 53 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Spike Flavis

Trad climber
Truckee California
May 5, 2014 - 05:49pm PT
Some climbers like to train-some don't.
If you like training and improving- this book is awsome!!!

The Anderson bros kick-ass at climbing, and have a life outside of climbing. How they do it is laid out in detail in this inspiring manual.

I like to geek out on training, work hard, struggle, AND improve. To me it's fun and really, really rewarding.

But if your happy with your current level of climbing progress and you have enough free time to maintain it-good for you.







Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 5, 2014 - 06:23pm PT
Training is for losers. I mean shouldn't all people just have FUN and CLIMB. BITD no one trained, cuz its lame. Sport C**G is NEITHER!

JUST KIDDING!

I designed a 20 week training schedule that I think will help me a lot if I am able to follow it. Would kick ass if I could, but I get out and climb in Yosemite during weekends and long weekends (often) which is counter productive to pure training. Just have to remind myself that I sacrifice training because I really love to rock climb outdoors...still get frustrated because I do not make gains I should be making if I concentrated on pure training.
bit'er ol' guy

climber
the past
May 6, 2014 - 11:59am PT
Heres how I do it.
dont train. drink. when your hungover and ALWAYS off the couch no one expectsmuch

it's a win-win! if you climb the same siht year after year and have a bad day "of course BOG sucks hesoff the couch and hungover"

But when I have a good day on a roite i have totally dicked/ wired everyone says "wow check out BOG he fired it hungover and off the couch!!!! WHATABADASSS!!!

So nubes heres BOG training tips

1-Dont train
2-Dont try hard
3-wire a couple of routes to send when the ego needs it
4-get drunk and Talksiht aboubt any one who started climbing after you.
5-Suck at everything else in life because your a "climber"

got it.
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
May 6, 2014 - 12:02pm PT
Gotta love Bit'er ol' guy!

Dude, post more often.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
May 6, 2014 - 12:37pm PT
I'll drink to that BOG, cheers.
Sanskara

climber
May 6, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
Training is fun!

At least I like it. Many of my friends and partners can't stand it but ehy just have diffently priorities. They like to have fun and don't consider suffering fun.

I can't train anymore because I am getting old and I injure myself now when I train hard.

If you are gonna take a sarcastic or sh#t talking tone on this thread Biter Old Guy nailed it. Gonna be hard to top....
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
May 6, 2014 - 12:57pm PT
Just picked it up, thanks! Been looking to building training cycles, I usually just do whatever training I feel is appropriate. I'm sure I'm making big mistakes somewhere...
Easy Wind

Trad climber
Oakland, California
May 6, 2014 - 01:48pm PT
Vitaliy.

The RCTM includes a 17-week program tailored to traditional and big wall free climbing. It builds in an extended strength phase, plans time for regular outdoor mileage days on the weekends, and cuts back on sport climbing specific phases that aren't as critical for success on the typical long traditional route.

It's seems to be the most realistic program for those interested in long free routes who still want to climb outside on a regular basis. After all, the skills trained need to be specific to the goal.
Willoughby

Social climber
Truckee, CA
May 6, 2014 - 01:52pm PT
cardio is mostly a waste of time if you have a reasonable level of fitness, and is detrimental to your ability to recover

Obviously you're talking about different types of climbing than here:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/642742/TR-Steck-Salathe-7-26-08

But at the time you said:

It was physcially the hardest day of my life by a wide, wide margin.

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2014 - 02:19pm PT
Sure. And no amount of cardio training would have magically produced water, allowing me to eat and drink; or created a wind shift to clear the forest fire smoke.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
May 6, 2014 - 03:12pm PT
Thanks for this thread, El Cap. I've had a very long layoff so I am just now beginning to get back into training -- at one age 62 -- and I appreciate the excellent info the book provides.

We can joke about training, but I, for one, enjoy myself more when I'm in better shape. Besides, the better shape I'm in, the more freedom I have to climb what I want.

Thanks again.

John
couchmaster

climber
pdx
May 6, 2014 - 03:18pm PT
It's a good recommendation capinyoass.
"Does their system allow for beer this is important."
In fact Mike addresses that very thing under the title WHY TRAIN.
"It seems every time someone asks a question about training, or attempts to have a meaningful discussion, it doesn’t take long for some moron to chime in with “I train my biceps by lifting a beer up to my fat face.” Insecure and below average climbers love to bash those of us with enough self respect to seek improvement. Someone once said: “Anything worth doing is worth doing well.” I believe this applies to climbing as well as it does anything else in life. I cannot understand the attitude of someone who would spend every weekend out on the rock, but not be at least mildly interested in getting better. "




The folks I see climbing the best seem to both train and climb a lot. Certainly Bachar use to do both and it worked for him. I thought Anderson had a great point about training with this:
"The second, and to me, most compelling reason to train is injury prevention. Stop and catch your breath, that wasn’t a typo. Yes, training prevents injury. Here’s how: Imagine some "guy A" who goes into the weight room (according to no specific schedule whatsoever, just when he has time) and he does one squat rep of a random weight then a couple reps of bicep curls (again at random weight, and so on), then a pullup followed by two more squat reps, then does one max rep on tricep extensions, then does a bicep curl then one max rep on leg extension then does one military press, then maxes out on bench press, then 3 situps, etc....
Now imagine "guy B". He goes to the weight room according to a schedule he has mapped out that allows for hard days, easy days and rest days. When he's in the gym he warms up each muscle group before working it, then he lifts a specified weight that is based on what he has lifted during his previous workouts plus an incremental (say 5%) increase. Which guy do you think will get injured? "

Certainly even doing a route below your ability could still fit this criteria of overdoing it if you boff a sequence or are having an off day. I'll check out the book Will cause at 59 going on 60 years old the injury thing is needed more than ever now, but I already know that the hardest part will be in following it.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
May 6, 2014 - 03:20pm PT
Someone once said: “Anything worth doing is worth doing well.”

I disagree. Anything worth doing is worth doing to excess, particularly if it involves climbing.

John
TwistedCrank

climber
Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
May 6, 2014 - 03:31pm PT
Training for climbing is like fcuking for virginity.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2014 - 04:37pm PT
I hear ya Bill, injury prevention is a really important reason to train and Mike captures the "why" very well in the excerpt.

In my 20s I had all kinds of finger problems, 10 different A2 pulley injuries. After starting the controlled, regimented training, I've had one finger injury in 6 years with a lot of bouldering at my limit during that time (and that was a pinky, which is very uncommon). The increase in middle+ring two finger pocket strength has the biggest gains I've made and since it was always those two, especially the ring that were blowing up pulleys, I think it has worked for injury prevention.
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
May 10, 2014 - 01:29pm PT
[quote]Training for climbing is like fcuking for virginity.[/quote

Without f*#king there would be no virginity so this makes sense.


I'm digging the book so far. At the very least it is helping me organize my training as I completely lack discipline and need concept likes these to help get me motivated. My only real complaint is that my book arrived kind of banged up because of the soft packaging. That made me a little sad.
W.L.

climber
May 13, 2014 - 02:22am PT
Picked this book up on Saturday while stewing about my latest back injury flare-up. Have every intent of getting a firm grasp of what it is all about, in conjunction with finishing Steve House's book, and trying to see what I can take from each training regiment and apply toward my goals. The good news is, summertime here is 'off' season here but also the best time of year for volume training after work. Yay shade in Calico, Willow, etc...

I've never really had a set regiment for training for climbing, especially over the past year living down here...where training was simply "go climb, throw in some cardio here and there" and I saw big gains. Want moar gains!

Stoked to see what these can do for my climbing.

Also of note, Steve House's "Alpine Combine" is amusing.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
May 13, 2014 - 02:37am PT
Heres how I do it.
dont train. drink. when your hungover and ALWAYS off the couch no one expectsmuch

it's a win-win! if you climb the same siht year after year and have a bad day "of course BOG sucks hesoff the couch and hungover"

But when I have a good day on a roite i have totally dicked/ wired everyone says "wow check out BOG he fired it hungover and off the couch!!!! WHATABADASSS!!!

So nubes heres BOG training tips

1-Dont train
2-Dont try hard
3-wire a couple of routes to send when the ego needs it
4-get drunk and Talksiht aboubt any one who started climbing after you.
5-Suck at everything else in life because your a "climber"

got it.

Well, this is kinda my philosophy, but everybody's different....I just like climbing rocks and sh#t.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
May 13, 2014 - 09:19am PT
Bought the book. Wife stole it. Last I saw of it.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
May 24, 2014 - 11:28am PT
Got the book and saw that they give you a shout out Will. You may already have known it, but if not, 1st paragraph inside cover. Congrats.

Looks like you need to buy a 2nd one Steelmonkey. These guys wanted some high production values and they clearly spent the scratch to achieve it. Very quality book. Looks to be edited and refined well too.
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