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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Bowling Alley to Durrance to the Bailey Direct on Devils Tower gives you about 600ft of 5.6 goodness to a spectacular summits. I believe Durrance is one of the "50 Classics" in and of itself, but adding a long pitch of 5.6 before and after it maeke it that much more classic.
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overwatch
climber
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DT has always intrigued me. So many places still to get to.
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Cosmic Wall, Mt Hubris, Trinity Alps, Ca.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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My vote from Colorado is for North Ridge on Spear Head in RMNP. It is the skyline ridge on the right side of the first pic.
Photos are courtesy of focoderek and Dr. Dan respectively from MP.com
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Byran
climber
San Jose, CA
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E Ridge of Wolf's Head is my personal favorite. Easy climbing, massive exposure, great rock
Also love the Great White Book and Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner (or is that one 5.7?)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Conn Route on Rubyiatt in the Needles is very cool.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Spearhead is good, but easy. Becky Route on Ambush is cool and really long, but only has a couple of pitches that we roped up for.Route is on the left side of the formation.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Edwards Crack in Ved. and Solar Slab at RR are both very good.
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tallguy
Trad climber
eastside
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What's my Line? Cochise
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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+1 for Cathedral, on of my all time favorites.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Royal Arches comes to mind, and Wolfs Head. High Exposure, which felt like a pretty stiff 5.6 to me. That route on Spear Head looks excellent.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Oops!, that topo I put up is a harder variation to the right of the 5.6 version, both are good.
And Yeah, Durrance is a must do at that range.
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Oh yeah, Headstone in J Tree.
I love this thread, these routes are all routes I could do!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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I'm going to go outside the box and put up a world class 5.4 - Wham Ridge, Vestal Peak, San Juans, Co.
It's worth it just for the approach.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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The Tree Route @ Dome Rock in The Needles is pretty sweet.
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Seth
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Hard to compete with a setting like Tuolumne. And it may only be three pitches (usually done as two today). But just the other day I was on Madame G's, in the Gunks, and I thought to myself that if there's a better 5.6 in the world I'd really like to experience it.
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alxj
Trad climber
Calgary, AB
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Well probably not "World Class 5.6"...but if you are up in the Lake Superior area it might be worth a visit considering the location and views.
Discovery one 5.7ish move (5 pitch) - bike/hike approach
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Although it's rated as 5.7 by the Reid and Falkenstein Guidebook, how about "Holdless Horror" on Dozier Dome? Pretty easy for a 5.7, I thought?
The Durrance on Devil's Tower is now generally considered a 5.7; it's pretty stout and continuous in the Durrance Crack itself. I remember mentally patting myself on the back after leading p.1 and p.2 of the route. The Bailey Direct Finish is recommended!
Another route at this level is "Great Arch" on Stone Mountain, North Carolina. Four excellent leads at 5.5/5.6!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Cross posted from the Squam thread.
Banana peel!
Our guide says 5.7 but it's a lie!!
One of my favorite routes anywhere.
This one might be even better:
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!