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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Bowling Alley to Durrance to the Bailey Direct on Devils Tower gives you about 600ft of 5.6 goodness to a spectacular summits. I believe Durrance is one of the "50 Classics" in and of itself, but adding a long pitch of 5.6 before and after it maeke it that much more classic.
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overwatch
climber
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DT has always intrigued me. So many places still to get to.
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Cosmic Wall, Mt Hubris, Trinity Alps, Ca.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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My vote from Colorado is for North Ridge on Spear Head in RMNP. It is the skyline ridge on the right side of the first pic.
Photos are courtesy of focoderek and Dr. Dan respectively from MP.com
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Byran
climber
San Jose, CA
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E Ridge of Wolf's Head is my personal favorite. Easy climbing, massive exposure, great rock
Also love the Great White Book and Surrealistic Pillar to Corrugation Corner (or is that one 5.7?)
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Conn Route on Rubyiatt in the Needles is very cool.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Spearhead is good, but easy. Becky Route on Ambush is cool and really long, but only has a couple of pitches that we roped up for.Route is on the left side of the formation.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Edwards Crack in Ved. and Solar Slab at RR are both very good.
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tallguy
Trad climber
eastside
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What's my Line? Cochise
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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+1 for Cathedral, on of my all time favorites.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Royal Arches comes to mind, and Wolfs Head. High Exposure, which felt like a pretty stiff 5.6 to me. That route on Spear Head looks excellent.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Oops!, that topo I put up is a harder variation to the right of the 5.6 version, both are good.
And Yeah, Durrance is a must do at that range.
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speelyei
Trad climber
Mohave County Arizona
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Oh yeah, Headstone in J Tree.
I love this thread, these routes are all routes I could do!
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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I'm going to go outside the box and put up a world class 5.4 - Wham Ridge, Vestal Peak, San Juans, Co.
It's worth it just for the approach.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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The Tree Route @ Dome Rock in The Needles is pretty sweet.
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Seth
Trad climber
New York, NY
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Hard to compete with a setting like Tuolumne. And it may only be three pitches (usually done as two today). But just the other day I was on Madame G's, in the Gunks, and I thought to myself that if there's a better 5.6 in the world I'd really like to experience it.
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alxj
Trad climber
Calgary, AB
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Well probably not "World Class 5.6"...but if you are up in the Lake Superior area it might be worth a visit considering the location and views.
Discovery one 5.7ish move (5 pitch) - bike/hike approach
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Although it's rated as 5.7 by the Reid and Falkenstein Guidebook, how about "Holdless Horror" on Dozier Dome? Pretty easy for a 5.7, I thought?
The Durrance on Devil's Tower is now generally considered a 5.7; it's pretty stout and continuous in the Durrance Crack itself. I remember mentally patting myself on the back after leading p.1 and p.2 of the route. The Bailey Direct Finish is recommended!
Another route at this level is "Great Arch" on Stone Mountain, North Carolina. Four excellent leads at 5.5/5.6!
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Cross posted from the Squam thread.
Banana peel!
Our guide says 5.7 but it's a lie!!
One of my favorite routes anywhere.
This one might be even better:
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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"Best"? As in the best that I have done? Exum on the Grand. There are so many that a "Best" is simply implausible.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Maybe "best" is more an attempt to classify as opposed to an absolute Wayno??
:-)
Another view of BP, let's get you up there this summer Wayno!
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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yeah, I hardly feel qualified to claim something to be the best, but ... I rather enjoyed Holdless horror and the Grack center, two that come to mind right away at the grade. Holdless Horror will always hold a special place for me being my first lead after my car accident, the experience I had finally climbing outdoors again for first time in about a year with a battered body was memorable.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Conness N and W Ridge, Tenaya -
all three are world class fun, w incredible settings, clean rock, good movement, good linkup possibilities, beautiful approaches... All better than Cathedral in my book! And that's saying something bc Cathedral is outstanding.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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My two favorites…maybe I'm upgrading the second a little, but it's all in the var you choose.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Simple J. Malarky @ Seneca Rocks is a good one. Wonderful exposure!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Grack Center
I also second Cosmic Wall, Salathe Route on the Hand,and What's My Line?
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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I'll admit his isn't objective, this was my first lead ever
High exposure, and maybe 10 or 15 years later my partner at the time went to repeat it and shared the route with Hans Kraus and Fritz Weisner. They were in their late 70's or so at the time.
Another view:
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richross
Trad climber
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View from High Exposure late December.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Money pitch on the Becky Route on Ambush
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Can't leave the Needles without doing the Tree Route!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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MButress in the East fork valley was soft for 5.7 and soft for 5.6 compared to may of these routes, but quite long. We may have missed the crux at the start as the snow made us start to the left of what we thought was the start of the route.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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I don't know if it's world class but the Royal Robbins route Scepter on Queen's Throne on Shuteye Ridge is hard to forget. Old school 5.6 for sure. The first three pitches are a wide, flaring off width gradually narrowing. The 4th pitch is the crux - 50m of mostly unprotected knobs. The last pitch is completely unprotected but since it tops out on the dome it gets easier and easier. The huge roof is cool and the views are great of the Minarets and Banner Peak.
Other than RR, I haven't talked to anybody else who has done it. He did it free solo BITD.
If anybody would like to do it with me, I'll let you have all the fun pitches.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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I'm with warbler- after six.
I know we've all done it a hundred times, but there must be a reason we've done it a hundred times besides the short approach.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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The West Ridge of Stuart - "Rumor has it there is some fun 5.6 ahead?"
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Warbler...thanks for mentioning left ski track on tahquitz...I remember starting up that thing on big vetical holds and being a bit nervous due to the exposure then looking up and seeing a golden eagle circling above..
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Kain Route on Bugaboo spire. 5.6 doesn't get much more spectacular.
Don't know where my pictures are, but some of you out there in taco land must a picture or two.
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alxj
Trad climber
Calgary, AB
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alxj
Trad climber
Calgary, AB
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The Joy 5.6 10 pitch, Mt Indefatigable, Kananaskis, Alberta
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alxj
Trad climber
Calgary, AB
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Brewer's Buttress 13 pitch 5.6, Banff National Park, Alberta
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alxj
Trad climber
Calgary, AB
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+1 to the earlier post of Cathedral Spire
And although Tenaya Peak is 5.5 you can find some 5.6
And on my list for next time to Tuolumne Mount Conness West Ridge: III, 5.6
Along with these http://www.climbing.com/route/moderate-marvels/
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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alxj: that 10 pitch route in the Kananaskis (Joy?) looks incredible, nice views too! You Canucks, the spectacular is just old hat to you.
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ruppell
climber
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Madam G's. It makes High E feel like a one move wonder. And just about any ridge in the Sierras will get you some 5.6 moves. Especially the "4th" class ones. lol
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karen roseme
Mountain climber
san diego
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Wow what a lot of beautiful routes! I want to do them all!
Two of my favorites that can be done as one are the west ridge of North Peak to the north ridge of Mt Conness
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Cancer Boy
Trad climber
Freedonia
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Hi E is the best 5.6 on the planet. And I'm from CA. All climbers should make this pilgrimage. You will want a rope, if you were wondering.
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Sanskara
climber
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Idk
I only started rock climbing two seasons ago and I spend winters climbing ice so I have yet to get around much.
All my local New England buddies rave about High E and how people come from all over the world to climb it "that part I believe" and that it's the best 5.6 anywhere.
Been up it a few times now and yes it's a fog rest route. I dint know though the route a post or two above this kinda looks waaaaay better to me but what do I know?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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worldclass? I always have fun on 5.6, here are some that are show up in my log:
After Six Yosemite Valley
Arrowhead Spire Yosemite Valley
Baby Shawangunks
Bloody Mary Shawangunks
C.S. Concerto Yosemite Valley
Cat in the Hat Red Rocks
Church Bowl Chimney Yosemite Valley
Clip Junior Owens River Gorge
Composure Lake Tahoe
Composure Corner Lake Tahoe
Credibility Gap Shawangunks
Disneyland Shawangunks
Don't Shoot Shawangunks
Durrance Ridge, Symmetry Spire Tetons
E. Ridge, Mt. Owens Tetons
E.Face cracks, Pingora Wind River Range
E.Ridge, Wolf's Head Wind River Range
El Cap Tree Yosemite Valley
Errett Out /Bit by Bit? Tuolumne Meadows
Eunuch Tuolumne Meadows
Fecophilia Yosemite Valley
Great White Book Tuolumne Meadows
Heavy Spider Karma Red Rocks
Hermaphrodite Flake Tuolumne Meadows
High Exposure Shawangunks
Holdless Horror Tuolumne Meadows
Honeymoon's Over var Tuolumne Meadows
Hot Crossed Buns Tuolumne Meadows
Insidious Crack Lake Tahoe
Ken's Blind Hole Shawangunks
Lion's Way Bugaboos
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst Shawangunks
Maria Shawangunks
Matthes Crest, South to North Tuolumne Meadows
Munginella Yosemite Valley
N.Face Pohono Pinnacle Yosemite Valley
Nodal Line Pinnacles
Northwest Books Tuolumne Meadows
Positively 4th Street Shawangunks
Raubinheimer Special Shawangunks
S.Buttress, Pingora Wind River Range
S.E. Buttress of Cathedral Spire Tuolumne Meadows
Scandalous Summer Tuolumne Meadows
Shockley's Ceiling Shawangunks
Smoke's Rock Course Bishop
Solar Slab Red Rocks
Southeast Buttress, Cathedral Pk. Tuolumne Meadows
Starlight Buttress, N. Palisades Sierra Nevada
Swallow Crack Pinnacles
The Bay Tree Yosemite Valley
The Brat Shawangunks
The Grack, Center Yosemite Valley
The Hex Files Red Rocks
Thin Air Cathedral Ledge
Tree Route Needles
W. Ridge Mt. Conness Tuolumne Meadows
West Crack Joshua Tree
Wrist Shawangunks
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Ed,
What's up with Lions way @ the bugs? What peak is it on?
I've not heard of it, thx.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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When I did the Death-slab approach to RNWFHD in 1980 or so with Daryl Hatten, we were hung-over and stoned and managed to get lost several times and had to use a rope once, but I always thought that experience was equal to a worldclass 5.6.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Shockley's at the Gunks was only ok, IMHO. Perhaps you have to do a nude ascent to fully appreciate it. I assume that Ed did so.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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I wonder how many bolts are on all of the routes listed?
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karen roseme
Mountain climber
san diego
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I can't get over how cool The Joy looks! Wow! 5.6 10 pitch, Mt Indefatigable, Kananaskis, Alberta
I hope I get there someday.
Another good one Mt Laurel
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avid
Trad climber
Colorado Springs
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East Buttress - Mt. Whitney
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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My worldly experience is limited, but Grack Center is one of the first I thought of... Super fun. I don't do a lot of 5.6, but I think I'll get into it more now!
Actually, I would rank the Conness routes and Tenaya peak above it, but that is apples to oranges man. They are all must-do climbs if you have a few days in Yosemite and not just focused on pushing grades.
So many good looking destinations in this thread!
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Even with retrobolts, I think the Hand is about as serious as 5.6 can get.
Did the Durrance back in the mid-1970s when you had to check in with the rangers and show them your equipment before doing the climb. We didn't have much wide gear with us and my partner at the time, Kent Barber, tried unsuccessfully to wedge his helmet in the wide crack on p3 to tie off for some badly needed pro. Eventually he gave up and ran it out. There was a sign on top saying "No Climbing Beyond This Point"
Cosmic Wall on Mt Hubris at Castle Crags
West Ridge Mt Conness
Start of the Nordkante, Piz Badile
Snake Dike
Headstone, Joshua Tree one of my favorite 5.6s
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dfinnecy
Social climber
'stralia
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The Joy 5.6 10 pitch, Mt Indefatigable, Kananaskis, Alberta
Just one more "Wow!" for The Joy. The best part must be the skateboard descent.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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When I made my initial post on this thread, I wasn't thinking about "klettergarten" type climbs, but since many others have posted even one pitch climbs, here are few more which I've enjoyed:
Grack, Center; Yosemite.
Edward's Crack, Center; Vedauwoo. (actually a 5.7)
Munginella, Yosemite.
But probably the BEST 5.6 climb I've ever done was Via della Guide; Kleiner Falzaregoturm, Dolomites, Italy. It's 9 pitches long with a wonderful summit attained, followed by an arduous descent.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I have the Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire to be 5.5, at least in my notes.
sorry for the long list, I don't know what's up with Adam Thomas but apparently his account has been deactivated... but my intention was to list those I had done which overlapped a lot of the candidates provided... I've done Madame G's three times, so I seemed to have really liked it when I was climbing in the 'Gunks. I do After Six all the time, ropeless, or if with a partner from outside the Valley as a roped tune up. (I don't recommend that everyone do this, by the way, you have to make that choice by yourself... I feel somewhat irresponsible fessing up, on the other hand, it is a bit dishonest to deny that I solo).
Lion's Way Crescent Towers (Central Towers), page 48 in the Green & Bensen 1989 guide.
I know that various routes have had their ratings changed, I listed the rating of the climb when I did it, so to me, those were the ratings. At this stage of my climbing career, it would be irrelevant if the climbs had been up-graded to 5.7 or 5.8, but when I was starting it would have been more consequential.
Certainly right now I'd assume I could solo most 5.6's, but that wouldn't be a good assumption for a lot of the climbs on my list...
5.6 is a very fun rating, and there are some world class climbs at that rating. To paraphrase Rebuffat, we should deny none of the joys of the mountains.
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Just did this 5.6 in the San Rafael Swell last week, route is called 1000’ feet of fun, coming from Alaska, just climbing in desert sun made this fun.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Bungwater Hollow, Ida-ho
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Matthes Crest. Did anyone mention Matthes Crest?
Makes for a fine day.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Even with retrobolts, I think the Hand is about as serious as 5.6 can get.
It's particularly amazing that Salathe led it without placing a bolt. High Exposure has a rather serious setting, too, however. With those two bookends, I have to throw in Grack Center as a favorite short 5.6, and any of a number of the Tuolumne ridges (and Tenaya Pk., although you have to go a bit out of your way to make it 5.6). Wolf's Head looks wonderful, but I never climbed there. Maybe next year. . .
John
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Apr 11, 2014 - 12:52pm PT
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alxj wrote:
The Joy 5.6 10 pitch, Mt Indefatigable, Kananaskis, Alberta
! Looks amazing!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 15, 2014 - 11:00pm PT
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Not sure I have done a more fun casual 5.6 pitch than Washington Irving in Eldo.
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Ney Grant
Trad climber
Pollock Pines
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Apr 16, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
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Northeast Ridge Bear Creek Spire. 5.5 / 5.6
If I remember it was mainly 4th class, but very fun climb with exposed ridge climbing.
Photo is of my daughter on ridge, used by REI.
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Apr 16, 2014 - 04:25pm PT
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Lot's of great mentions here. +1 for the original poster's mention of The Hand in Pinnacles. The Salathe route: historic, adventerous, old school. Quite bold and spicy for it's number grade, at least I thought so. Classic "full value".
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William Finley
Social climber
Anchorage
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Apr 16, 2014 - 05:04pm PT
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Chapelle de la Gliere's South Ridge. Wonderful climbing! Cham IV which apparently means 5.5 - 5.8.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Apr 16, 2014 - 07:30pm PT
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Did
Tollhouse Traverse (5.5)
Angel's Fright (5.6 in the new books)
Ecstasy (5.7, but seemed like an exposed 5.6 to me)
get mentioned yet? :)
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John Ely
Trad climber
DC
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Apr 16, 2014 - 07:45pm PT
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Of course there is no right answer to this question.
What's My Line
Cathedral Peak
Great White Book
are three I loved on the west coast.
'Green Wall' at Seneca and Wiessner's 'Yellow Ridge' at the Gunks used to be five six in the good old days; 'Madame G's' and 'High Exposure' still are, and 'Disneyland', perhaps the nicest moderate climb in the Gunks, has become that.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Apr 16, 2014 - 08:24pm PT
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William - that is a cool climb. getting on that arête is a can't miss photo.
my top pics would be
Comic wall, Castle Crags
West Ridge of Conness
Cathedral Peak
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wbw
Trad climber
'cross the great divide
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Apr 16, 2014 - 08:37pm PT
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First Flatiron, although many may prefer to do it in a different season.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Apr 17, 2014 - 11:01am PT
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Only mentioned once at the bottom of a long list posted by the Doc.
'Thin Air' Cathedral Ledge ! <--- needs recognition
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This is a cool thread. Lot's of great looking routes I have never heard of.
In a way it would be nice to not limit it to 5.6 specifically and instead say 'Best/most classic routes 5.7/5.8 and under'
Then we could include routes like the Whitney Gilman ridge on Cannon etc.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 17, 2014 - 01:08pm PT
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Conn Traverse is a full value 5.6 on Outer Outlet in the Black Hills Needles.
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Morchel
Trad climber
Neustadt, Germany
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Apr 17, 2014 - 03:16pm PT
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5.6??? Must be something about grade V in the UIAA system?
Some "worldclass" from Europe I know in this grade...
Normalveien - Stendind (Norway)
Panoramix - Biberkopf (Alps)
The luisiana rib - Stanage (England)
Südverschneidung - Spirkelbacher (Pfalz, Germany)
Südkante - Grosse Hunskirche (Saxony, Germany)
Kühnsche Variante - Blosstock (Saxony, Germany)
Alter Weg - Chinesischer Turm (Saxony, Germany)
Alter Dachweg - Buchholzfels (Pfalz, Germany)
But I will not forget the US...
Geronimo - Red Rocks
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L-Train
Boulder climber
Lehighton, Pennsylvania
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Apr 18, 2014 - 07:18am PT
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I have to say Royal Arches in Yosemite. Even though it's a 5.7 I think most of its pitches are 5.6.
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qigongclimber
climber
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Apr 20, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
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How about 17 pitches of 5.6 with 5.6 on every pitch. Check out the North Arete of Ellingwood Peak in Titcomb Basin. A fantastic, remote peak at least 17 miles from the nearest trailhead. We counted over 17 pitches with a 50 meter rope. Obviously, fewer pitches with the newer longer ropes.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 20, 2014 - 08:48pm PT
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Petzold Ridge on the Grand Teton.
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adam d
climber
CA
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Apr 20, 2014 - 11:12pm PT
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qigongclimber...I thought it was pretty great too.
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Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
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Apr 21, 2014 - 12:03am PT
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Single pitch: Brinton's Crack, Devil's Lake.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 21, 2014 - 11:12am PT
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Magic Ed got any pictures? Edwards crAck as a single pitch is pretty fun.
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Magic Ed
Trad climber
Nuevo Leon, Mexico
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Apr 21, 2014 - 01:35pm PT
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By request, a couple of photos of Brinton's Crack taken from MP.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Apr 21, 2014 - 02:27pm PT
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What's the best 5.6 in Mexico?
+1 for ellingwood definitely on the todo list.
How was ellingwood? I hear it is long and lots of rock. In the first picture that looks like steep terrain for a 5.6. Great pictures.
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Rosamond
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Apr 23, 2014 - 07:34pm PT
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Matthes Crest. Yeah, I know, it's "officially" 5.7. But really, it only has a couple of moves of 5.7. It's pretty much a 5.6 route. And it's fine.
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overwatch
climber
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Apr 23, 2014 - 07:41pm PT
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How about ne face west on tahquitz? I heard clark jacobs said it was one of his favorite on the whole rock
Sorry no pics
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overwatch
climber
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Apr 23, 2014 - 07:43pm PT
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I love these threads. They become mini dream guide books
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adam d
climber
CA
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Apr 23, 2014 - 08:20pm PT
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More shots of Ellingwood Arete...
The beginning and end are a little loose (looser at the top) but manageable. The middle 50% is clean and fun and awesome. Nothing too steep or that feels like pulling (ok, I do remember one loose 5.6 roof traverse thing close to the top), just lots of alpine 5.6. Great climb.
Sure looks like a terrrible day at the office.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Apr 23, 2014 - 10:31pm PT
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How about ne face west on tahquitz? I heard clark jacobs said it was one of his favorite on the whole rock
Sorry no pics
Pics back a couple of pages.
Back in the 70's I did this with a partner that had never used nuts before.
Didn't quite get the concept
We were swinging leads and he ran out of big pins and welded one of my then new hexes in with a hammer somewhere about pitch 4 or 5.
It's still there.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Apr 24, 2014 - 12:59am PT
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Matterhorn Peak, High Sierras
Beautiful setting
Ninja Bivy
Glacier Approach
Steep climbing
And no crowds!
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overwatch
climber
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Apr 24, 2014 - 02:16am PT
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Sure as sh#t TGT I missed that. Nice pics
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mcolombo
Trad climber
Heidelberg, Germany
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Apr 24, 2014 - 09:23am PT
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Thanks for the Pfalz pics Morchel!
I think I will try and get out there next weekend :-)
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Apr 24, 2014 - 09:45am PT
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Wow! Ellingwood Arete looks like a fun climb! Never heard of it before, even though I've been in the Winds a number of times.
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Mt Mike
Mountain climber
South Lake Tahoe, CA
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Apr 27, 2014 - 10:47pm PT
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I have to agree with the others, Cathedral Peak is bar-none, the best multi-pitch 5.6 climb around. When John Muir first scaled the Northwest side, he echoed our 21 Century sediments, "This I may say is the first time I have been at church in California" circa 1870. Mountain Mike
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 28, 2014 - 03:16am PT
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Scandalous Summer Tuolumne Meadows
Solar Slab Red Rocks
Great White Book Tuolumne Meadows
Northwest Books Tuolumne Meadows
After Six Yosemite Valley
Smoke's Rock Course Bishop
Eunuch Tuolumne Meadows
Cat in the Hat Red Rocks
Baby Shawangunks (1980)
sunrise illuminates the E. Ridge of Mt. Owens, split by the Koven Couloir, Tetons
Munginella Yosemite Valley
S.Buttress, Pingora Wind River Range
N.Face Pohono Pinnacle Yosemite Valley
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Apr 28, 2014 - 11:29am PT
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Awesome Ed. Some great shots.
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Binks
climber
Uranus
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Apr 28, 2014 - 11:42am PT
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Durrance is "hard" for the grade. Great thread. Makes it seem possible and worth it for me to rise from the couch... I'd find it hard to pick a favorite between Durrance and Cathedral Peak.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Apr 28, 2014 - 11:56am PT
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richross
Trad climber
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Apr 28, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
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Shockley's Ceiling
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Apr 28, 2014 - 03:08pm PT
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West Crack Joshua Tree
Perhaps you meant Wise Crack on Cowboy Crags up and right of Saddle Rocks?
Also, Fote Hog on The Sentinel is a pretty good 2/3 pitch 5.6 in Josh.
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Dirtbag Wannabe
Mountain climber
Westminster, CO
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Apr 29, 2014 - 01:35pm PT
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I'll go Kain Route on Bugaboo Spire. Best quality rock I've climbed in terms of stickiness. Vast scenery with good bail options if/when the weather turns. Per the graphic above, there are no World Class Sport 5.6's. There is a lifetime's worth of World Class Alpine Trad 5.6's.
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alxj
Trad climber
Calgary, AB
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Oct 10, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
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TrundleBum said Only mentioned once at the bottom of a long list posted by the Doc.
'Thin Air' Cathedral Ledge ! <--- needs recognition
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
This is a cool thread. Lot's of great looking routes I have never heard of.
In a way it would be nice to not limit it to 5.6 specifically and instead say 'Best/most classic routes 5.7/5.8 and under'
Then we could include routes like the Whitney Gilman ridge on Cannon etc.
Totally agree. Did Thin Air while on a swing back east this summer to do Presidential Traverse. What a nice route and North Conway is a great spot to hang...sorry we didn't get to do any floating on the rivers.
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Oct 10, 2015 - 12:36pm PT
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Nice thread, many ideas for my future projects.
If I had to give one answer, it would be the West Ridge of Conness.
Tree Route on Dome Rock and the 1st Flatiron come to mind too.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Oct 10, 2015 - 01:46pm PT
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I don't have photos, but the SW Ridge and Durrance Ridge routes on Symmetry Spire in the Tetons were among my early climbs in the mid 1950s, and I have very fond memories of them. Maybe there were a few steps of 5.7 but that's quibbling. Probably not world-class, however.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oct 10, 2015 - 02:03pm PT
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Wow, what an awesome thread! I've been lucky enough to
do a bunch of the routes, and they certainly are stellar!!!
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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Oct 10, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
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Disneyland, Near Trapps, the Gunks. This route is so good it brings a smile to my face just thinking about it. Sit on the top, legs hanging over the edge, sling anchor to a tree behind, and if it's fall, the whole valley aflame with color, WOW!
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jbaker
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Oct 10, 2015 - 07:04pm PT
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Locker - Are you thinking of Being There at Williamson? Nice climb. Too bad it is still closed.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Oct 12, 2015 - 09:21am PT
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A thread for the everyman....will give a plus 1 for Cosmic Wall. Great route, cool location. W. Ridge of Conness is awesome too as of course is Cathedral Peak.
5.6 is about all I can manage anymore...
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 12, 2015 - 03:51pm PT
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Did the First Flatiron last week. Was not that impressed. Overly runnout on the first pitch sorta so on the second and sgnificantly easier with good gear the rest of the way. Long route with good rock though. Best thing about it is it is 2 minutes from work to the parking lot.
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fairweather
Mountain climber
Roseville, CA
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Oct 12, 2015 - 04:51pm PT
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SE Arête of Baboquivari. Very remote location, good rock, and a great summit.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Oct 12, 2015 - 05:25pm PT
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Practically any 5.6 in the Gunks would measure up.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 15, 2015 - 07:43pm PT
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The ConnDiagonal is As hard as they come for 5.6 durance isn't far behind. Pretty much all the 5.6's done before the 60's are garenteed to get your attention at some point. I heard the ellingwood arête in the winds is great. Even solar slab has about 30ft of climbing that is quite interesting
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grinder
Mountain climber
Kensington, NH
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Oct 16, 2015 - 09:33am PT
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SW Ridge of Delago Tower in the Dolomites is simply outrageous for its exposure and setting.
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Rosamond
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 16, 2015 - 11:52am PT
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vote for Conness West Ridge. Great views, good climbing, and last time I did it, I got a free pair of tennies that somebody had dropped, that ended up on a ledge off to the right of the route. They were reasonably easy to solo over to and collect, so I'm not sure why the owner didn't collect them. But apparently, they walked out of there in a pair of rock shoes. Must have hurt like hell.
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franky
Trad climber
Black Hills, SD
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Oct 16, 2015 - 12:11pm PT
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Drone shots and dubstep = the demise of climbing videos.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Oct 16, 2015 - 12:18pm PT
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SW ridge of Delago is 5.6?
Outrageous! Looks like a must-do. (Or a sandbag!)
VVVV
Yeah, that lower ridge looks at least 5.7...unless there's a via ferrata bolted into it somewhere!
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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Oct 16, 2015 - 12:54pm PT
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I'm going to have to get a bigger bucket. Hoxie Smith and I did Lone Eagle Peak's North Face ca 1970, in the Indian Peaks Wilderness, CO. The route shown approximates the climb we did - car to car from the west along Cascade Creek.
Many good photos of it on Mountain Project. It's rated 5.7 but... It was a real "the Mountain" kind of climb with a lot of variety. We had no guidebook or beta. I saw a picture of it in a travel brochure, found it on the topo map and convinced Hoxie we should do it. There were a few rusty pins near the summit. I don't remember descending "Solo Flight". I think we found the Mohling traverse and down-climbed it.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/north-face/105752470
With Noel's permission, here's his photo of the 10th pitch headwall.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 16, 2015 - 02:32pm PT
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Definately want to do lone eagle. My brother did it and said it was great.
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larryhorton
Trad climber
NM
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Oct 17, 2015 - 10:35am PT
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+1 more for The Hand for ballsy! Did both Front and Back in first year of climbing.
+1 Wolf's Head, for best memories.
I was amazed to see Ed Hartouni's recommendation for Arrowhead Arete. I always liked that climb, and after unsuccessfully attempting to drag Pratt up there, overheard him tell someone else that if it were on the Valley floor, there would be a line...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 17, 2015 - 10:45am PT
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Arrowhead Spire, 5.5, is on the list and I don't think I've ever done the "5.5" variation... modern climber eyes see a corner and go up, but really should have gone a bit more to climber's right to find the easy gully/chimney (you realize this at the belay, where the real route intersects)... maybe next time!
Arrowhead Arête is full on 5.8, and is an intimidating line when spied from the Spire... it is a testament to Powell and the Dolt that they decided to explore it, and then to find a line up it... and I believe it would have a very long line of climbers waiting if access were no problem, but such a great climb can command a steeper entry price...
...at the time, it was "the most continuously difficult 5.7 in North America."
so much for the rating system...
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The Frog
Trad climber
West Allis WI
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Oct 17, 2015 - 06:08pm PT
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My vote for best 5.6 definitely goes to High Exposure in the Gunks. It is certainly the most photogenic climb I've ever been on at any level. I won't post a photo, since it's been in climbing mags so many times, but I still have a poster print of me on the 3rd pitch. Taken about 25 years ago, it's still a fresh memory.
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KeithM
Trad climber
East Greenbush, NY
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Oct 18, 2015 - 07:07pm PT
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+1 for Madame G's.
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Gunkie
climber
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Oct 19, 2015 - 06:33am PT
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Even though I love so many 5.6's in the Gunks, my vote would be for Whitney-Gilman Ridge on Cannon Mountain NH. I think it has one 5.7 move by the old pipe, but for the other 600 feet it's 5.6 and less.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 19, 2015 - 02:53pm PT
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Wow never seen the WG Ridge like in that photo. Now I see the alure.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Oct 19, 2015 - 05:51pm PT
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SE Buttress Cathedral Peak falls in this category . . . Nice photos Ed H.
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