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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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"Best"? As in the best that I have done? Exum on the Grand. There are so many that a "Best" is simply implausible.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Maybe "best" is more an attempt to classify as opposed to an absolute Wayno??
:-)
Another view of BP, let's get you up there this summer Wayno!
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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yeah, I hardly feel qualified to claim something to be the best, but ... I rather enjoyed Holdless horror and the Grack center, two that come to mind right away at the grade. Holdless Horror will always hold a special place for me being my first lead after my car accident, the experience I had finally climbing outdoors again for first time in about a year with a battered body was memorable.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Conness N and W Ridge, Tenaya -
all three are world class fun, w incredible settings, clean rock, good movement, good linkup possibilities, beautiful approaches... All better than Cathedral in my book! And that's saying something bc Cathedral is outstanding.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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My two favorites…maybe I'm upgrading the second a little, but it's all in the var you choose.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Simple J. Malarky @ Seneca Rocks is a good one. Wonderful exposure!
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lars johansen
Trad climber
West Marin, CA
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Grack Center
I also second Cosmic Wall, Salathe Route on the Hand,and What's My Line?
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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I'll admit his isn't objective, this was my first lead ever
High exposure, and maybe 10 or 15 years later my partner at the time went to repeat it and shared the route with Hans Kraus and Fritz Weisner. They were in their late 70's or so at the time.
Another view:
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richross
Trad climber
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View from High Exposure late December.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Money pitch on the Becky Route on Ambush
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Can't leave the Needles without doing the Tree Route!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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MButress in the East fork valley was soft for 5.7 and soft for 5.6 compared to may of these routes, but quite long. We may have missed the crux at the start as the snow made us start to the left of what we thought was the start of the route.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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I don't know if it's world class but the Royal Robbins route Scepter on Queen's Throne on Shuteye Ridge is hard to forget. Old school 5.6 for sure. The first three pitches are a wide, flaring off width gradually narrowing. The 4th pitch is the crux - 50m of mostly unprotected knobs. The last pitch is completely unprotected but since it tops out on the dome it gets easier and easier. The huge roof is cool and the views are great of the Minarets and Banner Peak.
Other than RR, I haven't talked to anybody else who has done it. He did it free solo BITD.
If anybody would like to do it with me, I'll let you have all the fun pitches.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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I'm with warbler- after six.
I know we've all done it a hundred times, but there must be a reason we've done it a hundred times besides the short approach.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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The West Ridge of Stuart - "Rumor has it there is some fun 5.6 ahead?"
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Warbler...thanks for mentioning left ski track on tahquitz...I remember starting up that thing on big vetical holds and being a bit nervous due to the exposure then looking up and seeing a golden eagle circling above..
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Kain Route on Bugaboo spire. 5.6 doesn't get much more spectacular.
Don't know where my pictures are, but some of you out there in taco land must a picture or two.
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alxj
Trad climber
Calgary, AB
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alxj
Trad climber
Calgary, AB
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The Joy 5.6 10 pitch, Mt Indefatigable, Kananaskis, Alberta
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SuperTopo on the Web
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