Best Worldclass 5.6 - Post Up

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Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 4, 2014 - 02:33pm PT
"Best"? As in the best that I have done? Exum on the Grand. There are so many that a "Best" is simply implausible.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Apr 4, 2014 - 02:39pm PT
Maybe "best" is more an attempt to classify as opposed to an absolute Wayno??

:-)


Another view of BP, let's get you up there this summer Wayno!


kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Apr 4, 2014 - 02:53pm PT
yeah, I hardly feel qualified to claim something to be the best, but ... I rather enjoyed Holdless horror and the Grack center, two that come to mind right away at the grade. Holdless Horror will always hold a special place for me being my first lead after my car accident, the experience I had finally climbing outdoors again for first time in about a year with a battered body was memorable.
richross

Trad climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 03:33pm PT
High Exposure.

le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Apr 4, 2014 - 06:35pm PT
Conness N and W Ridge, Tenaya -

all three are world class fun, w incredible settings, clean rock, good movement, good linkup possibilities, beautiful approaches... All better than Cathedral in my book! And that's saying something bc Cathedral is outstanding.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Apr 4, 2014 - 07:02pm PT

My two favorites…maybe I'm upgrading the second a little, but it's all in the var you choose.
Evel

Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
Apr 4, 2014 - 07:05pm PT
Simple J. Malarky @ Seneca Rocks is a good one. Wonderful exposure!
lars johansen

Trad climber
West Marin, CA
Apr 4, 2014 - 07:32pm PT
Grack Center

I also second Cosmic Wall, Salathe Route on the Hand,and What's My Line?
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
Apr 4, 2014 - 07:56pm PT
I'll admit his isn't objective, this was my first lead ever

High exposure, and maybe 10 or 15 years later my partner at the time went to repeat it and shared the route with Hans Kraus and Fritz Weisner. They were in their late 70's or so at the time.


Another view:

richross

Trad climber
Apr 4, 2014 - 08:09pm PT
View from High Exposure late December.

mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Apr 4, 2014 - 08:21pm PT
Money pitch on the Becky Route on Ambush
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Apr 4, 2014 - 08:38pm PT
Can't leave the Needles without doing the Tree Route!

mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Apr 4, 2014 - 08:44pm PT
MButress in the East fork valley was soft for 5.7 and soft for 5.6 compared to may of these routes, but quite long. We may have missed the crux at the start as the snow made us start to the left of what we thought was the start of the route.
Banquo

climber
Amerricka
Apr 4, 2014 - 09:39pm PT
I don't know if it's world class but the Royal Robbins route Scepter on Queen's Throne on Shuteye Ridge is hard to forget. Old school 5.6 for sure. The first three pitches are a wide, flaring off width gradually narrowing. The 4th pitch is the crux - 50m of mostly unprotected knobs. The last pitch is completely unprotected but since it tops out on the dome it gets easier and easier. The huge roof is cool and the views are great of the Minarets and Banner Peak.

Other than RR, I haven't talked to anybody else who has done it. He did it free solo BITD.

If anybody would like to do it with me, I'll let you have all the fun pitches.

tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 4, 2014 - 10:20pm PT
I'm with warbler- after six.

I know we've all done it a hundred times, but there must be a reason we've done it a hundred times besides the short approach.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 4, 2014 - 10:38pm PT
The West Ridge of Stuart - "Rumor has it there is some fun 5.6 ahead?"
rottingjohnny

Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
Apr 4, 2014 - 10:52pm PT
Warbler...thanks for mentioning left ski track on tahquitz...I remember starting up that thing on big vetical holds and being a bit nervous due to the exposure then looking up and seeing a golden eagle circling above..
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Apr 4, 2014 - 11:53pm PT
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the Kain Route on Bugaboo spire. 5.6 doesn't get much more spectacular.

Don't know where my pictures are, but some of you out there in taco land must a picture or two.
alxj

Trad climber
Calgary, AB
Apr 5, 2014 - 12:06am PT



alxj

Trad climber
Calgary, AB
Apr 5, 2014 - 12:19am PT
The Joy 5.6 10 pitch, Mt Indefatigable, Kananaskis, Alberta



Messages 21 - 40 of total 134 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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