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Rosamond
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Oct 16, 2015 - 11:52am PT
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vote for Conness West Ridge. Great views, good climbing, and last time I did it, I got a free pair of tennies that somebody had dropped, that ended up on a ledge off to the right of the route. They were reasonably easy to solo over to and collect, so I'm not sure why the owner didn't collect them. But apparently, they walked out of there in a pair of rock shoes. Must have hurt like hell.
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franky
Trad climber
Black Hills, SD
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Oct 16, 2015 - 12:11pm PT
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Drone shots and dubstep = the demise of climbing videos.
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Oct 16, 2015 - 12:18pm PT
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SW ridge of Delago is 5.6?
Outrageous! Looks like a must-do. (Or a sandbag!)
VVVV
Yeah, that lower ridge looks at least 5.7...unless there's a via ferrata bolted into it somewhere!
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Keith Leaman
Trad climber
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Oct 16, 2015 - 12:54pm PT
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I'm going to have to get a bigger bucket. Hoxie Smith and I did Lone Eagle Peak's North Face ca 1970, in the Indian Peaks Wilderness, CO. The route shown approximates the climb we did - car to car from the west along Cascade Creek.
Many good photos of it on Mountain Project. It's rated 5.7 but... It was a real "the Mountain" kind of climb with a lot of variety. We had no guidebook or beta. I saw a picture of it in a travel brochure, found it on the topo map and convinced Hoxie we should do it. There were a few rusty pins near the summit. I don't remember descending "Solo Flight". I think we found the Mohling traverse and down-climbed it.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/north-face/105752470
With Noel's permission, here's his photo of the 10th pitch headwall.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 16, 2015 - 02:32pm PT
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Definately want to do lone eagle. My brother did it and said it was great.
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larryhorton
Trad climber
NM
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Oct 17, 2015 - 10:35am PT
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+1 more for The Hand for ballsy! Did both Front and Back in first year of climbing.
+1 Wolf's Head, for best memories.
I was amazed to see Ed Hartouni's recommendation for Arrowhead Arete. I always liked that climb, and after unsuccessfully attempting to drag Pratt up there, overheard him tell someone else that if it were on the Valley floor, there would be a line...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 17, 2015 - 10:45am PT
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Arrowhead Spire, 5.5, is on the list and I don't think I've ever done the "5.5" variation... modern climber eyes see a corner and go up, but really should have gone a bit more to climber's right to find the easy gully/chimney (you realize this at the belay, where the real route intersects)... maybe next time!
Arrowhead Arête is full on 5.8, and is an intimidating line when spied from the Spire... it is a testament to Powell and the Dolt that they decided to explore it, and then to find a line up it... and I believe it would have a very long line of climbers waiting if access were no problem, but such a great climb can command a steeper entry price...
...at the time, it was "the most continuously difficult 5.7 in North America."
so much for the rating system...
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The Frog
Trad climber
West Allis WI
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Oct 17, 2015 - 06:08pm PT
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My vote for best 5.6 definitely goes to High Exposure in the Gunks. It is certainly the most photogenic climb I've ever been on at any level. I won't post a photo, since it's been in climbing mags so many times, but I still have a poster print of me on the 3rd pitch. Taken about 25 years ago, it's still a fresh memory.
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KeithM
Trad climber
East Greenbush, NY
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Oct 18, 2015 - 07:07pm PT
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+1 for Madame G's.
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Gunkie
climber
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Oct 19, 2015 - 06:33am PT
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Even though I love so many 5.6's in the Gunks, my vote would be for Whitney-Gilman Ridge on Cannon Mountain NH. I think it has one 5.7 move by the old pipe, but for the other 600 feet it's 5.6 and less.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Oct 19, 2015 - 02:53pm PT
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Wow never seen the WG Ridge like in that photo. Now I see the alure.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Oct 19, 2015 - 05:51pm PT
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SE Buttress Cathedral Peak falls in this category . . . Nice photos Ed H.
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