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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
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your Happy Hummock traverse
Um i think it's more Eric's than mine ;)
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Mar 18, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
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Happy for him :)
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Mar 18, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
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The blind date went well.
Footloose's mention of a rack led me to expect that he mostly wanted someone
to point him toward the climb and hold the rope, but it turned out that I was
the gun for this one.
First time leading it since 1982 or some such. It is definitely steeper and
longer than before.
One of the greats.
We also tunneled behind Reed's down low as possible.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 18, 2014 - 06:54pm PT
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Um i think it's more Eric's than mine ;)
Yeah but hell it's not much different for the follower on that 50 ft traverse than it is for the leader, grippage-wise.
Scuffy, nice! Bet you had a more limited rack in '82. What'd you think the crux was? You hear different answers for different skill sets.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
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If you ever follow Big Whiskey and the Barking Chicken you'll have to unclip a bolt and start a traverse with a crux right after the bolt. Now it has 1 or 2 more bolts on the traverse to protect the follower. Please think of me when you do it as those bolts weren't there then. I knew it was gonna be bad when Eric yelled "Please don't hate me" after he finished the traverse during the FA.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 18, 2014 - 07:50pm PT
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Haha, the safety of the second is not guaranteed!
Big Whiskey - is that the one that goes up knobs on the outside of that big, dark-gray block, then you're on top of the block on a little stance? That spot looks WILD.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 08:11pm PT
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Where is "Lunatic Fridge" in relation to "Stone Cold Groove?"
It's not in any of my guidebooks.
Anyone?
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
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le_bruce,
That's not it, but all parties involved would rather discuss the details in a van down by the river if ya know what I mean.
mouse,
It's on reeds a litte before (to the left of) stone groove.
kev
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 18, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
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One of the first I'll jump on when I get there in April. Left of Stone Groove Mouse.
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Mar 18, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
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sheer lunacy...
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 18, 2014 - 09:41pm PT
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Alexey, thanks for the pointers on Flatus... those pics don't look anything like I remember- all crack/chimney all the time. I injured my shoulder on the first pitch dihedral with cracks on each face, but kept going. Second pitch was some interesting lieback with ripply face features as I recall, maybe into a fisty bulge? Then a short but taxing pitch... I burrowed in way deep to sling a chockstone, but then had to come back out so far that falling would make it a grounder. Not too hard, but overhanging chockstone in the chimney don't fall.
We bailed about then (my lady got stuck in the chimney below), and above I could just see 5.9ish flaring or wide chimneys going for miles. Deep, dark, tempting. Never made it back there yet, but will get to it some day.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
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kev, ya bin trolled.
I said "Fridge," as in Refrigerator Perry, not Fringe, as in BBates.
I saw JStan, then Werner, then Luke Freeman, all on Lunatic Fringe years ago. YEARS AGO!
They all made it look like child's play, which it basically is nowadays...in comparison to others in that vicinity.
Nyuck-nyuck-nyuck. :0)
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 11:03pm PT
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Funny, I was wondering why you called it stone cold groove.
Lazy eyes strikes again...
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Mar 18, 2014 - 11:44pm PT
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FOOT!! Bill we gotta climb again soon man. Didn't know you made it to the valley;-)
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2014 - 10:44am PT
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What a great area!
Scuffy, thanks for the show n tell, I don't think I could've had a better guide for this spectacular place. I'm glad I deferred the lead of LF to you this day, you sent with grace, my lead would've looked markedly different. :)
le bruce, we watched you guys top out over the head wall high above. Very inspiring, I can't wait to return for more experience in this area. Hey, that appears to be orange spray paint on one of your biners in pic above.
Looking to return again asap.
Marc, miss you brother. Yeah, let's climb soon!!
EDIT
We found a draw at the base of p2 of Reeds Direct, one of its biners appeared to be spray painted orange.
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yosguns
climber
San Mateo, California
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Mar 19, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
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Hey, was there this weekend, too! Sooooo very good.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 20, 2014 - 01:42am PT
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great smile selfish man
thanks for the route!
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Ed,
the thanks goes to Barry, of course. I'm just the guy who took the picture about 40 years after his FA
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