lunatic fringe anyone?

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 42 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 04:56pm PT
Almost got tempted into trying Sylvester's Meow, wonder if anyone here has done that?

send me email... I'll answer when I get home...
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Mar 18, 2014 - 05:18pm PT
Almost got tempted into trying Sylvester's Meow, wonder if anyone here has done that?

I've been across it on aid...barely...Most cams were slowly sliding out on body weight accompanied by that wonderful smell you get from a good trundle suggesting the whole roof was about to come loose.

The "good" gear is early on the roof not late
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 05:43pm PT
Alexey, thanks dude. Eyeballed it on MP.com. Next time I'll find it.

NutAgain! - didn't Pellucid do the Flatus and write up a TR? Seems right in his wheelhouse.

Ed - email sent. Side note: did you hear about the recent repeat of Runaway Emotions?

Kev - Whaaaaaaaat that sounds rowdy. Interest quickly diminishing on reading your descrip there. PS dude - your Happy Hummock traverse is looking/feeling a bit dodgy! You two need to get up there and install some fresh hummocks with longer shelf life, hrrk hrrk. I tried to step on none of 'em, but there are places... Anyways, one in particular that I couldn't avoid is hanging on by mere threads. Gave me, as Yo said in some TR, "ball trouble." Someone is going to take that ride before long.

Gaaaa
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
The Rorp/Flatus write up
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=269832&msg=269891#msg269891

the link Rorp/Flatus is really good
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=578632&msg=1157622#msg1157622
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Mar 18, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
your Happy Hummock traverse

Um i think it's more Eric's than mine ;)

mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Mar 18, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
Happy for him :)
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Mar 18, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
The blind date went well.
Footloose's mention of a rack led me to expect that he mostly wanted someone
to point him toward the climb and hold the rope, but it turned out that I was
the gun for this one.
First time leading it since 1982 or some such. It is definitely steeper and
longer than before.
One of the greats.
We also tunneled behind Reed's down low as possible.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 06:54pm PT
Um i think it's more Eric's than mine ;)

Yeah but hell it's not much different for the follower on that 50 ft traverse than it is for the leader, grippage-wise.

Scuffy, nice! Bet you had a more limited rack in '82. What'd you think the crux was? You hear different answers for different skill sets.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Mar 18, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
If you ever follow Big Whiskey and the Barking Chicken you'll have to unclip a bolt and start a traverse with a crux right after the bolt. Now it has 1 or 2 more bolts on the traverse to protect the follower. Please think of me when you do it as those bolts weren't there then. I knew it was gonna be bad when Eric yelled "Please don't hate me" after he finished the traverse during the FA.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 07:50pm PT
Haha, the safety of the second is not guaranteed!

Big Whiskey - is that the one that goes up knobs on the outside of that big, dark-gray block, then you're on top of the block on a little stance? That spot looks WILD.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 18, 2014 - 08:11pm PT
Where is "Lunatic Fridge" in relation to "Stone Cold Groove?"

It's not in any of my guidebooks.

Anyone?
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Mar 18, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
le_bruce,

That's not it, but all parties involved would rather discuss the details in a van down by the river if ya know what I mean.

mouse,

It's on reeds a litte before (to the left of) stone groove.

kev
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 18, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
One of the first I'll jump on when I get there in April. Left of Stone Groove Mouse.
selfish man

Gym climber
Austin, TX
Mar 18, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
sheer lunacy...
Lunatic Fringe
Lunatic Fringe
Credit: selfish man
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 09:41pm PT
Alexey, thanks for the pointers on Flatus... those pics don't look anything like I remember- all crack/chimney all the time. I injured my shoulder on the first pitch dihedral with cracks on each face, but kept going. Second pitch was some interesting lieback with ripply face features as I recall, maybe into a fisty bulge? Then a short but taxing pitch... I burrowed in way deep to sling a chockstone, but then had to come back out so far that falling would make it a grounder. Not too hard, but overhanging chockstone in the chimney don't fall.

We bailed about then (my lady got stuck in the chimney below), and above I could just see 5.9ish flaring or wide chimneys going for miles. Deep, dark, tempting. Never made it back there yet, but will get to it some day.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 18, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
kev, ya bin trolled.

I said "Fridge," as in Refrigerator Perry, not Fringe, as in BBates.

I saw JStan, then Werner, then Luke Freeman, all on Lunatic Fringe years ago. YEARS AGO!

They all made it look like child's play, which it basically is nowadays...in comparison to others in that vicinity.

Nyuck-nyuck-nyuck. :0)
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Mar 18, 2014 - 11:03pm PT
Funny, I was wondering why you called it stone cold groove.

Lazy eyes strikes again...
msiddens

Trad climber
Mar 18, 2014 - 11:44pm PT
FOOT!! Bill we gotta climb again soon man. Didn't know you made it to the valley;-)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2014 - 10:44am PT
What a great area!

Scuffy, thanks for the show n tell, I don't think I could've had a better guide for this spectacular place. I'm glad I deferred the lead of LF to you this day, you sent with grace, my lead would've looked markedly different. :)

le bruce, we watched you guys top out over the head wall high above. Very inspiring, I can't wait to return for more experience in this area. Hey, that appears to be orange spray paint on one of your biners in pic above.

Looking to return again asap.

Marc, miss you brother. Yeah, let's climb soon!!




EDIT

We found a draw at the base of p2 of Reeds Direct, one of its biners appeared to be spray painted orange.
yosguns

climber
San Mateo, California
Mar 19, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
Hey, was there this weekend, too! Sooooo very good.

Credit: yosguns

Lunatic Fringe &#40;10c&#41;
Lunatic Fringe (10c)
Credit: yosguns
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