lunatic fringe anyone?

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Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 14, 2014 - 11:47am PT
I've never done it, I want to. Anyone interested in introducing me to this super esteemed climb? Flexible schedule this week, weather's looking good...

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-119.74630&lat=37.68687#.UyMjo4VhrLc

I'm safety conscious. Climbing 5.10. Climbed 20 years now. Have rack and rope. I'd be coming from Carson Valley. Pm if interested.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Mar 14, 2014 - 11:51am PT
It's only one pitch Footy! There's the extension to it(slips my name), sounds like a real adventurous outing.

Do all the classics at Reed's, man. That'd be a good day!
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Mar 14, 2014 - 11:53am PT
Beyond lunacy
WBraun

climber
Mar 14, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
Don't go there.

You'll become a lunatic.

I went there and look what happened to me .......
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Mar 14, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
Stoopid looney climbers!
Credit: Walleye
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 14, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Mar 14, 2014 - 01:03pm PT
We were rapping down from the extension while this fella' was on his way up. A pitch that gets better and better each time you do it.





Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2014 - 01:30pm PT
Jebus, what's your second and third favorite in the area at the 5.9-5.10 level I should look at?

Nice pics and all, thanks for the inspiration to finally get to this baby.

How's this: Somebody introduce me to Lunatic Fringe and I'll show them the cream of climbing at Woodfords when they're ready. Deal?

No pm yet, I hate to lose this opportunity. Who's free?
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Mar 14, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
I've sent a PM, not sure if they get through in these trying times.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Mar 14, 2014 - 01:43pm PT
PM sent. :)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 14, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
Hmmmm thousand miles away, oh well.
Lunatic fringe, stone groove, reeds direct... Classics every one!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Mar 14, 2014 - 02:10pm PT
Yur at the fringe of lunacy soloing that stuff!;-)
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Mar 14, 2014 - 03:27pm PT
"Beyond Lunacy" 5.11c is a good one.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Mar 14, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
BITD when no one ever did it, Lunatic Fringe was hard. Now that everybody does it, it's gotten super easy. Familiarity breeds contempt? No, not really! Think if you do Reeds Direct (1st & 2nd pitches), Stone Groove, and Lunatic Fringe, you'll feel like you had a really, really good day of Valley free climbing. In fact that's a sort of classic Reeds combination platter of climbs that'll leave you satisfied.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 14, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
Those 3 Reeds Direct , Stone Groove, Lunatic Fringe and + Dr. Fun Time 5.10d - new route Eric Gabel set up recently just under rappel line from Ejesta

Edit: yes Bruce this is a overhanging leaning crack from hands to wide fist size
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Mar 16, 2014 - 02:18am PT
Is it a crack?
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
Yo Footloose, good meeting you. How did it go?

Alexey, we went to check out Dr. Fun but couldn't find the thing, at least not that we were sure about. Got a pic?

Almost got tempted into trying Sylvester's Meow, wonder if anyone here has done that?
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Mar 18, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
Nice route. I always found the step over at the bottom more dicey than anything above it.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 04:34pm PT
Bryce, I do not have photo, but if you rappel from Ejesta - you passing two new bolts 80feet from the ground. If you look from the bottom of Ejesta rappel, which is technically start of Poter Pout 10a, the beginning of "Dr Fun" is about 30 feet left ( toward lunatic fringe) and start with some not well define cracks, which later become clean, leaning right overhanging hand crack going toward tight chimney.
Also check mountain project update for Scrangy-Mungy- 30 feet horizontal crack just left from stone grove
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 04:46pm PT
There is a squeeze chimney uphill right of the rap off of Ejesta too... protection is a bit dicey but your body is mostly plugged in or heel-toeing.

I don't see any mention of Flatus here, and that has got to be one of the unsung gems of the valley. I only tried it once with my lady, and we bailed a few pitches up. Her legs literally looked like I beat the living bujesus out of her. Someone has to get up there and give me a vicarious trip report.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 04:56pm PT
Almost got tempted into trying Sylvester's Meow, wonder if anyone here has done that?

send me email... I'll answer when I get home...
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Mar 18, 2014 - 05:18pm PT
Almost got tempted into trying Sylvester's Meow, wonder if anyone here has done that?

I've been across it on aid...barely...Most cams were slowly sliding out on body weight accompanied by that wonderful smell you get from a good trundle suggesting the whole roof was about to come loose.

The "good" gear is early on the roof not late
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 05:43pm PT
Alexey, thanks dude. Eyeballed it on MP.com. Next time I'll find it.

NutAgain! - didn't Pellucid do the Flatus and write up a TR? Seems right in his wheelhouse.

Ed - email sent. Side note: did you hear about the recent repeat of Runaway Emotions?

Kev - Whaaaaaaaat that sounds rowdy. Interest quickly diminishing on reading your descrip there. PS dude - your Happy Hummock traverse is looking/feeling a bit dodgy! You two need to get up there and install some fresh hummocks with longer shelf life, hrrk hrrk. I tried to step on none of 'em, but there are places... Anyways, one in particular that I couldn't avoid is hanging on by mere threads. Gave me, as Yo said in some TR, "ball trouble." Someone is going to take that ride before long.

Gaaaa
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 06:12pm PT
The Rorp/Flatus write up
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=269832&msg=269891#msg269891

the link Rorp/Flatus is really good
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=578632&msg=1157622#msg1157622
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Mar 18, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
your Happy Hummock traverse

Um i think it's more Eric's than mine ;)

mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Mar 18, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
Happy for him :)
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Mar 18, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
The blind date went well.
Footloose's mention of a rack led me to expect that he mostly wanted someone
to point him toward the climb and hold the rope, but it turned out that I was
the gun for this one.
First time leading it since 1982 or some such. It is definitely steeper and
longer than before.
One of the greats.
We also tunneled behind Reed's down low as possible.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 06:54pm PT
Um i think it's more Eric's than mine ;)

Yeah but hell it's not much different for the follower on that 50 ft traverse than it is for the leader, grippage-wise.

Scuffy, nice! Bet you had a more limited rack in '82. What'd you think the crux was? You hear different answers for different skill sets.
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Mar 18, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
If you ever follow Big Whiskey and the Barking Chicken you'll have to unclip a bolt and start a traverse with a crux right after the bolt. Now it has 1 or 2 more bolts on the traverse to protect the follower. Please think of me when you do it as those bolts weren't there then. I knew it was gonna be bad when Eric yelled "Please don't hate me" after he finished the traverse during the FA.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 07:50pm PT
Haha, the safety of the second is not guaranteed!

Big Whiskey - is that the one that goes up knobs on the outside of that big, dark-gray block, then you're on top of the block on a little stance? That spot looks WILD.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 18, 2014 - 08:11pm PT
Where is "Lunatic Fridge" in relation to "Stone Cold Groove?"

It's not in any of my guidebooks.

Anyone?
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Mar 18, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
le_bruce,

That's not it, but all parties involved would rather discuss the details in a van down by the river if ya know what I mean.

mouse,

It's on reeds a litte before (to the left of) stone groove.

kev
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Mar 18, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
One of the first I'll jump on when I get there in April. Left of Stone Groove Mouse.
selfish man

Gym climber
Austin, TX
Mar 18, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
sheer lunacy...
Lunatic Fringe
Lunatic Fringe
Credit: selfish man
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 09:41pm PT
Alexey, thanks for the pointers on Flatus... those pics don't look anything like I remember- all crack/chimney all the time. I injured my shoulder on the first pitch dihedral with cracks on each face, but kept going. Second pitch was some interesting lieback with ripply face features as I recall, maybe into a fisty bulge? Then a short but taxing pitch... I burrowed in way deep to sling a chockstone, but then had to come back out so far that falling would make it a grounder. Not too hard, but overhanging chockstone in the chimney don't fall.

We bailed about then (my lady got stuck in the chimney below), and above I could just see 5.9ish flaring or wide chimneys going for miles. Deep, dark, tempting. Never made it back there yet, but will get to it some day.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Mar 18, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
kev, ya bin trolled.

I said "Fridge," as in Refrigerator Perry, not Fringe, as in BBates.

I saw JStan, then Werner, then Luke Freeman, all on Lunatic Fringe years ago. YEARS AGO!

They all made it look like child's play, which it basically is nowadays...in comparison to others in that vicinity.

Nyuck-nyuck-nyuck. :0)
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Mar 18, 2014 - 11:03pm PT
Funny, I was wondering why you called it stone cold groove.

Lazy eyes strikes again...
msiddens

Trad climber
Mar 18, 2014 - 11:44pm PT
FOOT!! Bill we gotta climb again soon man. Didn't know you made it to the valley;-)
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2014 - 10:44am PT
What a great area!

Scuffy, thanks for the show n tell, I don't think I could've had a better guide for this spectacular place. I'm glad I deferred the lead of LF to you this day, you sent with grace, my lead would've looked markedly different. :)

le bruce, we watched you guys top out over the head wall high above. Very inspiring, I can't wait to return for more experience in this area. Hey, that appears to be orange spray paint on one of your biners in pic above.

Looking to return again asap.

Marc, miss you brother. Yeah, let's climb soon!!




EDIT

We found a draw at the base of p2 of Reeds Direct, one of its biners appeared to be spray painted orange.
yosguns

climber
San Mateo, California
Mar 19, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
Hey, was there this weekend, too! Sooooo very good.

Credit: yosguns

Lunatic Fringe (10c)
Lunatic Fringe (10c)
Credit: yosguns
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 20, 2014 - 01:42am PT
great smile selfish man
thanks for the route!
selfish man

Gym climber
Austin, TX
Apr 6, 2014 - 11:42am PT
Ed,

the thanks goes to Barry, of course. I'm just the guy who took the picture about 40 years after his FA
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