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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 14, 2014 - 11:47am PT
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I've never done it, I want to. Anyone interested in introducing me to this super esteemed climb? Flexible schedule this week, weather's looking good...
http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-119.74630&lat=37.68687#.UyMjo4VhrLc
I'm safety conscious. Climbing 5.10. Climbed 20 years now. Have rack and rope. I'd be coming from Carson Valley. Pm if interested.
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Mar 14, 2014 - 11:53am PT
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Beyond lunacy
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 14, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
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Don't go there.
You'll become a lunatic.
I went there and look what happened to me .......
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:03pm PT
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We were rapping down from the extension while this fella' was on his way up. A pitch that gets better and better each time you do it.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2014 - 01:30pm PT
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Jebus, what's your second and third favorite in the area at the 5.9-5.10 level I should look at?
Nice pics and all, thanks for the inspiration to finally get to this baby.
How's this: Somebody introduce me to Lunatic Fringe and I'll show them the cream of climbing at Woodfords when they're ready. Deal?
No pm yet, I hate to lose this opportunity. Who's free?
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
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I've sent a PM, not sure if they get through in these trying times.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Mar 14, 2014 - 01:43pm PT
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PM sent. :)
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 14, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
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Hmmmm thousand miles away, oh well.
Lunatic fringe, stone groove, reeds direct... Classics every one!
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Mar 14, 2014 - 03:27pm PT
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"Beyond Lunacy" 5.11c is a good one.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Mar 14, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
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BITD when no one ever did it, Lunatic Fringe was hard. Now that everybody does it, it's gotten super easy. Familiarity breeds contempt? No, not really! Think if you do Reeds Direct (1st & 2nd pitches), Stone Groove, and Lunatic Fringe, you'll feel like you had a really, really good day of Valley free climbing. In fact that's a sort of classic Reeds combination platter of climbs that'll leave you satisfied.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 14, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
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Those 3 Reeds Direct , Stone Groove, Lunatic Fringe and + Dr. Fun Time 5.10d - new route Eric Gabel set up recently just under rappel line from Ejesta
Edit: yes Bruce this is a overhanging leaning crack from hands to wide fist size
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Mar 16, 2014 - 02:18am PT
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Is it a crack?
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 18, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
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Yo Footloose, good meeting you. How did it go?
Alexey, we went to check out Dr. Fun but couldn't find the thing, at least not that we were sure about. Got a pic?
Almost got tempted into trying Sylvester's Meow, wonder if anyone here has done that?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Mar 18, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
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Nice route. I always found the step over at the bottom more dicey than anything above it.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 18, 2014 - 04:34pm PT
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Bryce, I do not have photo, but if you rappel from Ejesta - you passing two new bolts 80feet from the ground. If you look from the bottom of Ejesta rappel, which is technically start of Poter Pout 10a, the beginning of "Dr Fun" is about 30 feet left ( toward lunatic fringe) and start with some not well define cracks, which later become clean, leaning right overhanging hand crack going toward tight chimney.
Also check mountain project update for Scrangy-Mungy- 30 feet horizontal crack just left from stone grove
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 18, 2014 - 04:46pm PT
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There is a squeeze chimney uphill right of the rap off of Ejesta too... protection is a bit dicey but your body is mostly plugged in or heel-toeing.
I don't see any mention of Flatus here, and that has got to be one of the unsung gems of the valley. I only tried it once with my lady, and we bailed a few pitches up. Her legs literally looked like I beat the living bujesus out of her. Someone has to get up there and give me a vicarious trip report.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 18, 2014 - 04:56pm PT
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Almost got tempted into trying Sylvester's Meow, wonder if anyone here has done that?
send me email... I'll answer when I get home...
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 05:18pm PT
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Almost got tempted into trying Sylvester's Meow, wonder if anyone here has done that?
I've been across it on aid...barely...Most cams were slowly sliding out on body weight accompanied by that wonderful smell you get from a good trundle suggesting the whole roof was about to come loose.
The "good" gear is early on the roof not late
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 18, 2014 - 05:43pm PT
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Alexey, thanks dude. Eyeballed it on MP.com. Next time I'll find it.
NutAgain! - didn't Pellucid do the Flatus and write up a TR? Seems right in his wheelhouse.
Ed - email sent. Side note: did you hear about the recent repeat of Runaway Emotions?
Kev - Whaaaaaaaat that sounds rowdy. Interest quickly diminishing on reading your descrip there. PS dude - your Happy Hummock traverse is looking/feeling a bit dodgy! You two need to get up there and install some fresh hummocks with longer shelf life, hrrk hrrk. I tried to step on none of 'em, but there are places... Anyways, one in particular that I couldn't avoid is hanging on by mere threads. Gave me, as Yo said in some TR, "ball trouble." Someone is going to take that ride before long.
Gaaaa
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 06:16pm PT
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your Happy Hummock traverse
Um i think it's more Eric's than mine ;)
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Mar 18, 2014 - 06:27pm PT
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Happy for him :)
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scuffy b
climber
heading slowly NNW
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Mar 18, 2014 - 06:38pm PT
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The blind date went well.
Footloose's mention of a rack led me to expect that he mostly wanted someone
to point him toward the climb and hold the rope, but it turned out that I was
the gun for this one.
First time leading it since 1982 or some such. It is definitely steeper and
longer than before.
One of the greats.
We also tunneled behind Reed's down low as possible.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 18, 2014 - 06:54pm PT
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Um i think it's more Eric's than mine ;)
Yeah but hell it's not much different for the follower on that 50 ft traverse than it is for the leader, grippage-wise.
Scuffy, nice! Bet you had a more limited rack in '82. What'd you think the crux was? You hear different answers for different skill sets.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 07:12pm PT
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If you ever follow Big Whiskey and the Barking Chicken you'll have to unclip a bolt and start a traverse with a crux right after the bolt. Now it has 1 or 2 more bolts on the traverse to protect the follower. Please think of me when you do it as those bolts weren't there then. I knew it was gonna be bad when Eric yelled "Please don't hate me" after he finished the traverse during the FA.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 18, 2014 - 07:50pm PT
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Haha, the safety of the second is not guaranteed!
Big Whiskey - is that the one that goes up knobs on the outside of that big, dark-gray block, then you're on top of the block on a little stance? That spot looks WILD.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 08:11pm PT
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Where is "Lunatic Fridge" in relation to "Stone Cold Groove?"
It's not in any of my guidebooks.
Anyone?
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 08:43pm PT
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le_bruce,
That's not it, but all parties involved would rather discuss the details in a van down by the river if ya know what I mean.
mouse,
It's on reeds a litte before (to the left of) stone groove.
kev
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 18, 2014 - 08:45pm PT
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One of the first I'll jump on when I get there in April. Left of Stone Groove Mouse.
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Mar 18, 2014 - 09:23pm PT
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sheer lunacy...
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Mar 18, 2014 - 09:41pm PT
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Alexey, thanks for the pointers on Flatus... those pics don't look anything like I remember- all crack/chimney all the time. I injured my shoulder on the first pitch dihedral with cracks on each face, but kept going. Second pitch was some interesting lieback with ripply face features as I recall, maybe into a fisty bulge? Then a short but taxing pitch... I burrowed in way deep to sling a chockstone, but then had to come back out so far that falling would make it a grounder. Not too hard, but overhanging chockstone in the chimney don't fall.
We bailed about then (my lady got stuck in the chimney below), and above I could just see 5.9ish flaring or wide chimneys going for miles. Deep, dark, tempting. Never made it back there yet, but will get to it some day.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
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kev, ya bin trolled.
I said "Fridge," as in Refrigerator Perry, not Fringe, as in BBates.
I saw JStan, then Werner, then Luke Freeman, all on Lunatic Fringe years ago. YEARS AGO!
They all made it look like child's play, which it basically is nowadays...in comparison to others in that vicinity.
Nyuck-nyuck-nyuck. :0)
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Mar 18, 2014 - 11:03pm PT
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Funny, I was wondering why you called it stone cold groove.
Lazy eyes strikes again...
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msiddens
Trad climber
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Mar 18, 2014 - 11:44pm PT
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FOOT!! Bill we gotta climb again soon man. Didn't know you made it to the valley;-)
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2014 - 10:44am PT
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What a great area!
Scuffy, thanks for the show n tell, I don't think I could've had a better guide for this spectacular place. I'm glad I deferred the lead of LF to you this day, you sent with grace, my lead would've looked markedly different. :)
le bruce, we watched you guys top out over the head wall high above. Very inspiring, I can't wait to return for more experience in this area. Hey, that appears to be orange spray paint on one of your biners in pic above.
Looking to return again asap.
Marc, miss you brother. Yeah, let's climb soon!!
EDIT
We found a draw at the base of p2 of Reeds Direct, one of its biners appeared to be spray painted orange.
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yosguns
climber
San Mateo, California
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Mar 19, 2014 - 08:10pm PT
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Hey, was there this weekend, too! Sooooo very good.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 20, 2014 - 01:42am PT
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great smile selfish man
thanks for the route!
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selfish man
Gym climber
Austin, TX
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Ed,
the thanks goes to Barry, of course. I'm just the guy who took the picture about 40 years after his FA
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| Messages 1 - 39 of total 39 in this topic |
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