lunatic fringe anyone?

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Messages 1 - 20 of total 42 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 14, 2014 - 11:47am PT
I've never done it, I want to. Anyone interested in introducing me to this super esteemed climb? Flexible schedule this week, weather's looking good...

http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?lon=-119.74630&lat=37.68687#.UyMjo4VhrLc

I'm safety conscious. Climbing 5.10. Climbed 20 years now. Have rack and rope. I'd be coming from Carson Valley. Pm if interested.
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Mar 14, 2014 - 11:51am PT
It's only one pitch Footy! There's the extension to it(slips my name), sounds like a real adventurous outing.

Do all the classics at Reed's, man. That'd be a good day!
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
Mar 14, 2014 - 11:53am PT
Beyond lunacy
WBraun

climber
Mar 14, 2014 - 12:10pm PT
Don't go there.

You'll become a lunatic.

I went there and look what happened to me .......
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Mar 14, 2014 - 12:32pm PT
Stoopid looney climbers!
Credit: Walleye
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Mar 14, 2014 - 12:49pm PT
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Mar 14, 2014 - 01:03pm PT
We were rapping down from the extension while this fella' was on his way up. A pitch that gets better and better each time you do it.





Footloose

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2014 - 01:30pm PT
Jebus, what's your second and third favorite in the area at the 5.9-5.10 level I should look at?

Nice pics and all, thanks for the inspiration to finally get to this baby.

How's this: Somebody introduce me to Lunatic Fringe and I'll show them the cream of climbing at Woodfords when they're ready. Deal?

No pm yet, I hate to lose this opportunity. Who's free?
scuffy b

climber
heading slowly NNW
Mar 14, 2014 - 01:42pm PT
I've sent a PM, not sure if they get through in these trying times.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Mar 14, 2014 - 01:43pm PT
PM sent. :)
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Mar 14, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
Hmmmm thousand miles away, oh well.
Lunatic fringe, stone groove, reeds direct... Classics every one!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Relic MilkEye and grandpoobah of HBRKRNH
Mar 14, 2014 - 02:10pm PT
Yur at the fringe of lunacy soloing that stuff!;-)
PAUL SOUZA

Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
Mar 14, 2014 - 03:27pm PT
"Beyond Lunacy" 5.11c is a good one.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Mar 14, 2014 - 03:34pm PT
BITD when no one ever did it, Lunatic Fringe was hard. Now that everybody does it, it's gotten super easy. Familiarity breeds contempt? No, not really! Think if you do Reeds Direct (1st & 2nd pitches), Stone Groove, and Lunatic Fringe, you'll feel like you had a really, really good day of Valley free climbing. In fact that's a sort of classic Reeds combination platter of climbs that'll leave you satisfied.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 14, 2014 - 03:54pm PT
Those 3 Reeds Direct , Stone Groove, Lunatic Fringe and + Dr. Fun Time 5.10d - new route Eric Gabel set up recently just under rappel line from Ejesta

Edit: yes Bruce this is a overhanging leaning crack from hands to wide fist size
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Mar 16, 2014 - 02:18am PT
Is it a crack?
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 03:52pm PT
Yo Footloose, good meeting you. How did it go?

Alexey, we went to check out Dr. Fun but couldn't find the thing, at least not that we were sure about. Got a pic?

Almost got tempted into trying Sylvester's Meow, wonder if anyone here has done that?
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Mar 18, 2014 - 03:59pm PT
Nice route. I always found the step over at the bottom more dicey than anything above it.
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 04:34pm PT
Bryce, I do not have photo, but if you rappel from Ejesta - you passing two new bolts 80feet from the ground. If you look from the bottom of Ejesta rappel, which is technically start of Poter Pout 10a, the beginning of "Dr Fun" is about 30 feet left ( toward lunatic fringe) and start with some not well define cracks, which later become clean, leaning right overhanging hand crack going toward tight chimney.
Also check mountain project update for Scrangy-Mungy- 30 feet horizontal crack just left from stone grove
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Mar 18, 2014 - 04:46pm PT
There is a squeeze chimney uphill right of the rap off of Ejesta too... protection is a bit dicey but your body is mostly plugged in or heel-toeing.

I don't see any mention of Flatus here, and that has got to be one of the unsung gems of the valley. I only tried it once with my lady, and we bailed a few pitches up. Her legs literally looked like I beat the living bujesus out of her. Someone has to get up there and give me a vicarious trip report.
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