High Sierra Couloir Report


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Ice climber
Nov 13, 2006 - 03:14am PT
We saw ice in the couloir on Mt. Gilbert on Sunday, perhaps 2 or 3 pitches worth.

But it depends on how much you want it. The approach slabs weren't too bad, even with a dusting of snow from Saturday's storm, and this melted off during the day. The several inches of freshies and ice on the seemingly endless talus was what really sucked though.

I understand that another system is coming in Monday. Oh well... the mountain will still be there next year.

Mountain climber
Nov 17, 2006 - 11:42am PT
Your right about Gilbert. We went in all the way to the base Wednesday (11/15). Beautiful water ice up high but miles of post-holing in one to two feet of fresh snow over big talus fields. What a stressful work out - one wrong step and you'd drop in up to you neck between two huge boulders. Then we got to the base of the couloir and started getting big "thawamps.." as the wind-packed powder slab settled over sugar snow. Time to turn and run... What a disappointment.

Next year I'll be back.

Ice climber
Nov 17, 2006 - 03:41pm PT
Yep, sounds familiar ... but it was great to be out there anyway.

Curse you Red Baron ...

Trad climber
San Diego
Dec 23, 2006 - 06:05pm PT
What shape do you think Gilbert would be in right now? The approach might be less tedious with snow covering the boulders?

Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2007 - 01:28am PT
It's getting to be that time... anyone with info?

Trad climber
Woodside, CA
Jul 9, 2007 - 02:48am PT
As of July 2, Kindergarten Chute is starting to form and Checkered Demon is partially melted out (and looks mighty ugly)

Ice climber
Jul 9, 2007 - 12:22pm PT
Ice in the V-Notch, as of 1-July

(marky - weren't you up on Sill with Mike around then ? Didja see the U-Notch at all ?)

East Side
Jul 31, 2007 - 06:36pm PT
FYI. Mt Gilbert is done for the year. It is totally melted out and nasty in the middle section, which was just thin last year. Mt Thompson has lots of crevasses, several quite massive, on the snow field/glacier leading up to the couloirs. We didn't end up climbing the couloirs for various reasons, but it is questionable as to whether they even go to the top. I really hope it snows next winter!

Aug 24, 2007 - 11:58am PT
Mike Dahlquist

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Sep 4, 2007 - 11:28am PT
Anyone go up to Palisade Glacier for Labor Day weekend? I was thinking about trying to climb the V-Notch or U-Notch next weekend but I'm hoping they don't resemble the North Face couloirs on Norman Clyde Peak, which were ugly and full of mud on Sunday. If anyone climbed either Notch or even looked at them let me know what you saw. Thanks!

Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2008 - 01:31am PT
anyone have any recent info?


Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
Aug 22, 2008 - 11:18am PT
A depressing view of Palisade Glacier from last weekend.

Trad climber
Aug 22, 2008 - 11:34am PT
How's dana looking?

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Aug 22, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
Feather Peak on Wednesday the 20th:

Dingus Milktoast

Aug 22, 2008 - 12:57pm PT
Was up at Conness a couple weeks back - the Dana Couloir is definitely still filled in. Ed Hartouni was up on the Plateau about 3 or 4 weeks ago. He might be able to fill you in on whether it was neve or ice.


Trad climber
Aug 22, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
Brian Granger

Aug 22, 2008 - 10:47pm PT
Has anyone attempted or been near Mt. Emerson North Couloir and/or Checkered Demon couloir (Peak 13112') in the last couple of weeks? Is there a climable snow/ice line that leads nearly to the top? If the routes have reasonable ice coverage, I'd like to climb them next weekend. Looking for a partner if anyone is interested?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Aug 23, 2008 - 02:58pm PT
looks dirty, whatever it is...
Dana Couloir

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, NV
Sep 2, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
Anybody been in a couloir lately? I'm going to climb the V-Notch in late September. Hoping for quality ice-cube-blue ice.

Sep 2, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
Feather Peak was looking thin!

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