High Sierra Couloir Report

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 118 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Logdog

Trad climber
Sierra Nevada
Sep 2, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
THe Dana and north peak couloirs are looking to be in good shape by september. All were mainly snow with small patches of ice starting to show as of mid August. Anybody have any info/ pics of the palisades this year?
Blue Eisele

Big Wall climber
Reno, NV
Sep 3, 2009 - 01:08am PT
bump
bradL

Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, NV
Sep 6, 2009 - 12:55am PT
bump...
10b4me

Ice climber
the reticient boulder at the Happies
Sep 6, 2009 - 03:21pm PT
a friend of mine is up there this weekend. he is scouting out the couloirs on Dana, and North Peak. will report once he gets back.
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jun 9, 2010 - 12:35am PT
Keeping an eye on this one.
apogee

climber
Jun 9, 2010 - 01:21am PT
Keep on keepin' an eye until about September...
marv

Mountain climber
Bay Area
Aug 5, 2010 - 09:51pm PT

any info? thinking of warming up on dana and north peak this weekend
The Chief

Trad climber
from the Land where Free Mongols still roam!
Aug 6, 2010 - 01:28am PT
"Ice Nine" & "The RT Side" are dry as a bone as of yesterday....

10b4me

Boulder climber
The End Is Near Retirement Home
Aug 6, 2010 - 01:29am PT
both those should be ok, although there might be more neve than ice.
btw, the Checkered Demon looks like it is melted out.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 6, 2010 - 01:47am PT
man, it was brutal up there the other day!

Credit: Reilly
The Chief

Trad climber
from the Land where Free Mongols still roam!
Aug 6, 2010 - 02:10am PT
both those should be ok, although there might be more neve than ice

I certainly hope that you are not referring to Ice Nine or The Rt Side... we went to the base of both looking and hoping and nada, just this past Tuesday.

Ended up climbing directly to the left of Ice Nine in doing so most likely made an FA of the NF of Mendel. Seven pitches of 5.9 very loose shet.
Jay Hack

Trad climber
bellingham, Washington
Aug 6, 2010 - 09:45am PT
Wow, that just blows my mind that in a year that the Sierra snow pack was 143% of normal, that Ice Nine and Right Mendel are already melted out. Nice up close pictures though, thank you for the update.
crøtch

climber
Aug 6, 2010 - 02:21pm PT
Checkered Demon is melted out.

Kindergarten Couloir is holding snow from bottom to top.
Hoots

climber
Toyota Tacoma
Aug 19, 2010 - 12:21am PT
Anybody know how North Peak or V notch is looking right now? Thanks!
marv

Mountain climber
Bay Area
Aug 19, 2010 - 12:33pm PT
bump
Brian

climber
California
Aug 19, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
Chief,

Thanks for saving me the hike over Lamarck Col!

Brian
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Aug 26, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
Anyone head up the U/V notches? How do these look? Would they be in decent shape, in yer opinion, in a week? Anywhere else that is? Looking to do my first sierra coulior this season, any ideas help! Thanks!
rhyang

climber
SJC
Aug 26, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
Saw some pics of the Kindergarten Couloir (left chute on Checkered Demon) from earlier this month -- looked good. Only did it once in 2005, but it seemed about the same steepness as the Dana Couloir. I'd probably give it another several weeks though.
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Aug 26, 2010 - 05:42pm PT
The Chief - THANKS for the pics of Mendel right and ice nine in your 8/5/10 post.

I've done the both routes on Mendel a bunch of times and seen them more diminished each time (gave up on the right side years ago). Never, ever have I seen them so melted out and so grim as in your pictures. Very, very sad. You've squelched my thoughts about trying to convince someone to do ice nine with me this year. Dang it, but thanks.


CURRENT CONDITIONS??

In another thread, I recently posted some pics and a TR from N Pk, Dana, and U Notch from 3 weeks ago (8/3-5/10). My observations of the conditions back then:
N Peak – fun styrofoam snow with some ice.
Dana – sloppy snow over old ice with some rock debris already making its appearance.
U Notch – soft, almost sloppy snow with some ice up high in the couloir – lots and lots of loose rocks ready to launch.

Conditions are perhaps now better and more icy than then. Probably getting better as the season progresses. Hit them before the sun shines on 'em and have a good time. Helmet and good luck suggested.

Another observation: hiked the sunny north couloir (original route) on Mt. Abbot (13,704') on 8/16/10. Ski poles and approach shoes were adequate for the relatively mellow suncupped snow. Party of 2 who came up as I was descending used their crampons and axes.

With last winter's decent snowfall, it's amazing to see Mendel so dry in The Chief's pictures. Dang.
BMcC

Trad climber
Livermore
Aug 27, 2010 - 04:00pm PT
Though I don't think this is one of the classic Sierra couloirs, here are a couple of Mt. Abbot pics showing the snow (not ice) conditions from 8/16/10:
Mt. Abbot &#40;N Couloir splits the face just right of the summit&#41;...
Mt. Abbot (N Couloir splits the face just right of the summit) and Petit Griffon (rock spire in the col between Abbot and Mills) - 8/16/10
Credit: BMcC
Mt. Abbot - view looking down the N Couloir from the summit ridge - 8/...
Mt. Abbot - view looking down the N Couloir from the summit ridge - 8/16/10
Credit: BMcC
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