Discussion Topic |
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marky
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 10, 2006 - 01:10am PT
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What have folks seen? Anyone willing to make a forecast of how the classic gullies will look in late September?
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BCD
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Aug 10, 2006 - 10:40am PT
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I was snowboarding on the north side of Conness two weeks ago. No ice showing anywhere. The snow is kind of freezing at night, and turning to corn/slush during the day.
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eeh
climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Aug 10, 2006 - 11:18am PT
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Climbed the north couloir of Mt. Gilbert in late July. There was about one pitch of "ice" and the rest was snow. Things are melting fast....climate change?
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marky
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2006 - 12:26pm PT
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thanks. anyone else?
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Aug 11, 2006 - 12:33pm PT
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We were up at Feather Peak a few days ago. All neve snow, no ice. My buddies climbed it anyway and said there is at least 36" of snow over the ice all the way up....
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Aug 11, 2006 - 01:05pm PT
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What was this past winter like in the Sierra? A lot of snow? What's the snowpack like now?
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Aug 11, 2006 - 01:10pm PT
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A lot of late snow, Patrick. The snow is still lingering in unusual places for this time of year.
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eeh
climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Aug 11, 2006 - 01:13pm PT
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Last winter we had record-breaking snowfall. One of largest amounts of snow we have ever received in a season, depending upon which data set you use. A few higher lakes just recently melted out and the mosquitos are still in full effect, if that gives you an idea of the amount of snow left.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Aug 11, 2006 - 05:10pm PT
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Thanks people.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Aug 11, 2006 - 05:57pm PT
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The Tioga Pass area seemed to be the epicenter of the storms, recieving 200% of normal snowpack, or something over 700 inches.
check out www.esavalanche.org and go through the old avy reports for spring, interesting, albiet scary stuff!
There was a young fellow in a couple of days ago who skied , I think, The North Peak coulior. He said it was firm, with runnels in it, and some sun cups.
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Ultrabiker
Ice climber
Eastside
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Aug 11, 2006 - 09:31pm PT
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If the Day/Night variable temps continue as they have around here, we may see some "Classic" Couloir Ice, MAYBE, begin appearing in late Sept on the following Classic's:
NP East and West, Gilbert, Smrz, Knutson, Harrington, Moynier, Feather(Big MAYBE), Mendel Rt Side and cross your fingers, ICE NINE may even be in and out for a couple of days in very late Sept.
So far, as KSOLEM mentioned, there is a top layer of at least 24-36"s of this years snowpack/neve still covering many of the Sierra Classic's Ice.
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marky
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 24, 2006 - 08:34pm PT
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has anyone looked at anything lately?
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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Aug 25, 2006 - 12:08am PT
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Here is what the V notch and the U notch looked like last weekend Marky.
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Ultrabiker
Ice climber
Eastside
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Aug 25, 2006 - 08:32am PT
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"ICE NINE" is DOA for this season...so far. Pray for a drip in the next couple of weeks! Same for "Moynier"...ahhhhhhhhhh! I need my Ice fix soooooooon!
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10b4me
Trad climber
California
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Aug 30, 2006 - 12:43am PT
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anybody been up the Dana Couloir lately?
what's the 'schrund like? neve or AI?
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james Colborn
Trad climber
Truckee, Ca
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Aug 30, 2006 - 10:51am PT
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Dana Last thursday with a party of three. One in the party was not so solid so we roped up and simul climbed it in one long pitch. It's low angle enough to use a long axe. Neve frozen corn snow conditions prevail, w/ one small patch of ice on the upper right of the couloir. The Schrund is bridged in three places, left, center, and right side. We went for the center. The route is very moderate, with lots of scoops for rests, if your solid I reccommend soloing the route. As with most climbs in the backcountry the approach is more brutal than the climb.
Mick how about posting some of the photos. James
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Aug 30, 2006 - 11:58am PT
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That 'schrund on Palisade Glacier looks larger than I have seen it before. T2 did you climb either notch and if so what was the 'shcrund like to cross?
I can't believe the last time I was on the Palisade Glacier was in 1973 (U-Notch and North Pal).
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Aug 30, 2006 - 03:04pm PT
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Did V notch two weeks ago and it was perfect nieve, the center was starting to ice up and that will likely continue for a while. The U notch was nieve too and the right side was icing up. The nieve was sweet, like ice climbing but easier, definately not a slog!!
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bearbnz
Trad climber
Bridgeport, CA
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Aug 30, 2006 - 06:14pm PT
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Here is a photo of the North Peak couloirs from Monday August 21. Definitely snow, but firm snow in the A.M.
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Ultrabiker
Ice climber
Eastside
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Aug 30, 2006 - 09:25pm PT
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WOW!!!!! Check out #2 or the Center Couloir!!! Looks like the funnel up top (2/3rds of the way up and can't be seen clearly) goes through!!! BEARBNZ's, did you notice if that is true. If it is, that is a fine line and goes @ WI4+/5 with an 80deg 5-8' wide by 40' long deep channel that only forms once every, well, last time I saw it/did it was back in 98'. Got to go SOLO it...maybe tomorrow!
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marky
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2006 - 03:07pm PT
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anyone checked out Mendel N Face lately? Palisades?
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Scott_Nelson
Trad climber
San Diego
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Sep 19, 2006 - 03:18pm PT
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I heard Ice Nine was melted out as of July. = (
Too hot this summer I guess.
Other coulouirs look to be shaping up.
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Mick K
climber
Northern Sierra
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Sep 19, 2006 - 03:36pm PT
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James: I just came across this thread today. Here is my attempt at posting a photo of Mt. Dana [edit: I finally figured it out]. If you can see from the picture the differnce between the old ice and this year's neve. With the current cold temps I would say that most gullies will be very nice neve. If you want the old ice you have to find a gully that did not retain the snow pack form last years record season.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Sep 19, 2006 - 04:07pm PT
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The impression I get is that the gradual transformation from snow to neve to ice is only one part of the picture. Melt / freeze cycles and rainfall helps that process.
I was up in the east couloir of Split this past June with someone who swears he had seen ice in it four years before. Only it was too warm and we found a waterfall where the steep ice would be formed (in colder temps). However, last November there was a nice pitch of WI3 there (see pics on summitpost - I've met all the guys who climbed it last Nov).
It probably requires snowmelt and colder temps to form the steep ice in Split's east couloir and maybe Ice Nine & Moynier too. Potentially all these may re-form later in the season with the return of colder weather. But I have never been up any of these. Just my guess.
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ADK
Trad climber
Reno, Nevada
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Sep 19, 2006 - 04:49pm PT
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Soloed the dana couloir on saturday car to car 4.5 hours. There is not much blue ice, mostly neve. The schrund is easy to cross on the left side and there are many rests along the way. I was running pretty late on accident but id recommend it for an amazing sunset
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addiroid
Big Wall climber
Long Beach, CA
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Sep 19, 2006 - 07:06pm PT
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Did North Peak last weekend. It was neve. The schrund was passable on the left with about a 6' climb on vertical styrofoam or a shitty rock/neve chimney/ow on the left. Pretty solo'able for someone who knows their sh#t (not me) when it comes to ice. The rest of the route was nice with the final third being easy enough to grab the top of the shaft of the tool, and walk up on all 4's.
Great to run up the NW ridge of Conness too after that!!
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marky
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2006 - 01:13am PT
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bump
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crotch
climber
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Sep 21, 2006 - 01:46am PT
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Both the St. Jean and the central coulior on Split are melted out as of 3 weeks ago.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Sep 25, 2006 - 02:27pm PT
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Thanks for the beta about Split. When you say 'central' couloir do you mean the East couloir (the one with the chimney pitch) ? Which part appeared to be melted out ?
(oh, and bump :)
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crotch
climber
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Sep 25, 2006 - 04:44pm PT
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re: Split Central- I was referring to the couloir between the two Galen Rowell aretes (NE Arete and NW Arete) in the 100 Sierra Classics book. OK, back from a look on Summitpost. I'm talking about the E. Couloir. Sorry for the confusion.
There were patches of snow covering maybe 20-40% of the E. Couloir, but mostly dry rock, especially down low. I'll try and post a pic some time this week. I was surprised because from 395, it looked like the couloir might be "in".
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crotch
climber
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Sep 25, 2006 - 11:10pm PT
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Split E. Couloir in August.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Sep 26, 2006 - 12:17am PT
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Thanks ! Well, I guess the approach would have sucked anyway...
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forjan
Ice climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 26, 2006 - 02:54pm PT
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crotch,
Sh*t! I was gonna with rhyang in early November to do this one. What date exactly in August did you take this pic of Split Mtn's East (Central) Couloir?
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crotch
climber
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Sep 26, 2006 - 04:58pm PT
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It would have been labor day weekend.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Sep 30, 2006 - 09:46pm PT
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Soloed the left couloir on North Peak today : all neve, 45-ish degrees, two melted out spots (probably class 3 or so).
Bottom half of right couloir looked like it was still neve, but didn't see much more than that - wanted to beat any incoming weather. It was all neve when I soloed it on 10-Sept.
I can never figure out what's going on in that middle couloir :)
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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North couloir on North Peak Sep 23 (right most route). Frozen styrofoam the whole way. 15 foot vertical step crossing the schrund then smooth sailing. Fun. Good link-up with north ridge of Conness if you are in shape (found outI'm not) :-) 17 degrees at saddleback lake the previous night. Burrrr..
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10b4me
Trad climber
California
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went in to solo the Dana couloir yesterday. very little ice, weather was threatening, and there were two people moving pretty slow on the route. decided to cancel the climb.
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salad
climber
San Diego
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any info on Gilbert?
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crotch
climber
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We climbed the Cats Ears Couloir on Mt. Dade on Sunday. Mostly neve with a few patches of ice. Schrund is not a problem. There's a loose class 3 rock band about 100' above the schrund. As we reached the top of the couloir the skies opened up and didn't let up until the next morning. I'd guess that a foot or more of fresh snow fell above 12,000' in the Rock Creek area this weekend.
The previous weekend, we climbed Dana & found perfect styrofoam with about 75' of optional blue ice in the middle of the gully.
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markhusbands
Mountain climber
Mariposa, CA
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Oct 16, 2006 - 11:54am PT
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Any recent info on the Mendel Couloirs or V-notch Couloir?
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cybele
Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
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Oct 18, 2006 - 01:49pm PT
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Bump. Anybody have any more info? Thanks.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 18, 2006 - 02:48pm PT
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Huh?...Smrz? Knutson? Harrington (I'm guessing maybe Split Mt.)?
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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Oct 18, 2006 - 03:02pm PT
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I was on Gilbert Oct.,2-4. It was in good condition. Sorry no pics. Snowed 2-3 inches on us at camp. A bit more above. Made the moraine approach very tedious.
Tony
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travelin_light
Trad climber
california
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Oct 18, 2006 - 03:28pm PT
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TYeary,
When you say, "Gilbert was in good condition," do you mean alpine ice? snow,styrofoam?
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tdoughty
Mountain climber
descanso, ca
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Oct 18, 2006 - 04:23pm PT
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N. Gully, Mt. Emmerson 10-8-06
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markhusbands
Mountain climber
Mariposa, CA
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Oct 18, 2006 - 07:40pm PT
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well, looks sort of icy above the cups.
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markhusbands
Mountain climber
Mariposa, CA
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Oct 19, 2006 - 06:45pm PT
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any recent trip reports to mendel or the palisades?
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travelin_light
Trad climber
california
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Oct 19, 2006 - 06:54pm PT
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ha! Funny you should say that. My buddies went up to the U-Notch last weekend. There was so much snow I guess it took five hours to reach the coulior from the moraine. I guess there was some ice (i have not got the details yet). They did two pitches and got stormed off. They said it was cold as hell. you boys out there? post up!
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markhusbands
Mountain climber
Mariposa, CA
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Oct 19, 2006 - 07:31pm PT
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not encouraging...
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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Oct 19, 2006 - 09:27pm PT
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Gilbert had about 2-3 inches of fresh, wet snow over alpine ice. Short streach of water ice in the middle section. Some black ice as well. Upper half was all ice covered by a few inches of snow. All in all pretty nice. I hear it snowed again dumping more snow so perhaps the game's over for this year.
Tony
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ADK
climber
truckee
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Oct 23, 2006 - 07:50pm PT
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Anyone know if the colouir climbing is still good for this coming weekend? Any specific info would be appreciated...thinking of going down the east side for a sat. climb.
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ADK
climber
truckee
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Oct 24, 2006 - 03:12am PT
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Thanks Dave
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marky
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2006 - 03:26am PT
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did Dana couloir yesterday. mix of frozen snow, alpine ice, and dinner-plating water ice. would have been a romp had I not been sick.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Oct 24, 2006 - 11:40am PT
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hey Mark - when you say 'alpine ice' I assume you mean neve ? How much water ice was actually present ? Got any pics ?
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Oct 29, 2006 - 11:41pm PT
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Answered my own question - went and soloed the Dana Couloir this morning. Lots of hard neve, a couple hundred feet of blue ice in the top half or so in streaks and patches, some pockets of fresh snow (well relatively fresh anyway), and some aerated whitish ice here and there.
Seemed like it would be fairly easy to avoid most of the ice in the couloir if one so desired (and I did not :)
Solstice Couloir looked like it was still filled in to the top. When I soloed it on 9-Sept it was all neve, but I thought I caught a glimpse of blue up high this morning ... maybe it was just a shadow ...
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McC
Trad climber
Livermore Ca
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Oct 31, 2006 - 03:08am PT
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Hiked the right-most of the three couloirs left of the summit of North Peak on Saturday-10/28. Neve with no ice exposed. Some exercise but no adrenaline. Left-most gully had rocks exposed in 2 places -- looked easy to get over or around the rocks. Upper prtions of the middle gully appeared entirely melted out. Nice views from the top -- another beautiful day in the Sierra.
Friends of a friend climbed Ice 9 in mid-September. Sounded and looked like even less ice than 9/04 when I last climbed it -- so little ice to get over crux chockstone that they took off their crampons to climb up to and through the crux, and about 50 feet higher. Said they found the most beautiful line of ice had "ever laid eyes on. The ice was FAT, crystal clear, and there was no evidence of anyone ever having climbed it." Nice job Brian and Calvin!
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marky
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2006 - 04:33pm PT
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any news? thinking of getting a last blast in this weekend. Mendel? Palisades?
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Nov 13, 2006 - 03:14am PT
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We saw ice in the couloir on Mt. Gilbert on Sunday, perhaps 2 or 3 pitches worth.
But it depends on how much you want it. The approach slabs weren't too bad, even with a dusting of snow from Saturday's storm, and this melted off during the day. The several inches of freshies and ice on the seemingly endless talus was what really sucked though.
I understand that another system is coming in Monday. Oh well... the mountain will still be there next year.
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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Nov 17, 2006 - 11:42am PT
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Your right about Gilbert. We went in all the way to the base Wednesday (11/15). Beautiful water ice up high but miles of post-holing in one to two feet of fresh snow over big talus fields. What a stressful work out - one wrong step and you'd drop in up to you neck between two huge boulders. Then we got to the base of the couloir and started getting big "thawamps.." as the wind-packed powder slab settled over sugar snow. Time to turn and run... What a disappointment.
Next year I'll be back.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Nov 17, 2006 - 03:41pm PT
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Yep, sounds familiar ... but it was great to be out there anyway.
Curse you Red Baron ...
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Scott_Nelson
Trad climber
San Diego
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Dec 23, 2006 - 06:05pm PT
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What shape do you think Gilbert would be in right now? The approach might be less tedious with snow covering the boulders?
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marky
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2007 - 01:28am PT
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It's getting to be that time... anyone with info?
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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As of July 2, Kindergarten Chute is starting to form and Checkered Demon is partially melted out (and looks mighty ugly)
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Ice in the V-Notch, as of 1-July
(marky - weren't you up on Sill with Mike around then ? Didja see the U-Notch at all ?)
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eeh
climber
East Side
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Jul 31, 2007 - 06:36pm PT
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FYI. Mt Gilbert is done for the year. It is totally melted out and nasty in the middle section, which was just thin last year. Mt Thompson has lots of crevasses, several quite massive, on the snow field/glacier leading up to the couloirs. We didn't end up climbing the couloirs for various reasons, but it is questionable as to whether they even go to the top. I really hope it snows next winter!
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ADK
climber
truckee
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Aug 24, 2007 - 11:58am PT
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bump.
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Mike Dahlquist
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Anyone go up to Palisade Glacier for Labor Day weekend? I was thinking about trying to climb the V-Notch or U-Notch next weekend but I'm hoping they don't resemble the North Face couloirs on Norman Clyde Peak, which were ugly and full of mud on Sunday. If anyone climbed either Notch or even looked at them let me know what you saw. Thanks!
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marky
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2008 - 01:31am PT
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anyone have any recent info?
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 22, 2008 - 11:18am PT
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A depressing view of Palisade Glacier from last weekend.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 22, 2008 - 11:34am PT
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How's dana looking?
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BCD
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Aug 22, 2008 - 12:50pm PT
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Feather Peak on Wednesday the 20th:
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 22, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
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Yee-haw!
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Brian Granger
climber
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Aug 22, 2008 - 10:47pm PT
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Has anyone attempted or been near Mt. Emerson North Couloir and/or Checkered Demon couloir (Peak 13112') in the last couple of weeks? Is there a climable snow/ice line that leads nearly to the top? If the routes have reasonable ice coverage, I'd like to climb them next weekend. Looking for a partner if anyone is interested?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 23, 2008 - 02:58pm PT
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looks dirty, whatever it is...
Dana Couloir
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bradL
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, NV
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Anybody been in a couloir lately? I'm going to climb the V-Notch in late September. Hoping for quality ice-cube-blue ice.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feather Peak was looking thin!
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Logdog
Trad climber
Sierra Nevada
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THe Dana and north peak couloirs are looking to be in good shape by september. All were mainly snow with small patches of ice starting to show as of mid August. Anybody have any info/ pics of the palisades this year?
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bradL
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe, NV
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bump...
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10b4me
Ice climber
the reticient boulder at the Happies
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a friend of mine is up there this weekend. he is scouting out the couloirs on Dana, and North Peak. will report once he gets back.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Keeping an eye on this one.
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apogee
climber
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Keep on keepin' an eye until about September...
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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any info? thinking of warming up on dana and north peak this weekend
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10b4me
Boulder climber
The End Is Near Retirement Home
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both those should be ok, although there might be more neve than ice.
btw, the Checkered Demon looks like it is melted out.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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man, it was brutal up there the other day!
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Jay Hack
Trad climber
bellingham, Washington
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Wow, that just blows my mind that in a year that the Sierra snow pack was 143% of normal, that Ice Nine and Right Mendel are already melted out. Nice up close pictures though, thank you for the update.
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crřtch
climber
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Checkered Demon is melted out.
Kindergarten Couloir is holding snow from bottom to top.
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Hoots
climber
Toyota Tacoma
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Aug 19, 2010 - 12:21am PT
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Anybody know how North Peak or V notch is looking right now? Thanks!
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Aug 19, 2010 - 12:33pm PT
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bump
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Brian
climber
California
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Aug 19, 2010 - 01:43pm PT
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Chief,
Thanks for saving me the hike over Lamarck Col!
Brian
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Aug 26, 2010 - 05:00pm PT
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Anyone head up the U/V notches? How do these look? Would they be in decent shape, in yer opinion, in a week? Anywhere else that is? Looking to do my first sierra coulior this season, any ideas help! Thanks!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Aug 26, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
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Saw some pics of the Kindergarten Couloir (left chute on Checkered Demon) from earlier this month -- looked good. Only did it once in 2005, but it seemed about the same steepness as the Dana Couloir. I'd probably give it another several weeks though.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Aug 26, 2010 - 05:42pm PT
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The Chief - THANKS for the pics of Mendel right and ice nine in your 8/5/10 post.
I've done the both routes on Mendel a bunch of times and seen them more diminished each time (gave up on the right side years ago). Never, ever have I seen them so melted out and so grim as in your pictures. Very, very sad. You've squelched my thoughts about trying to convince someone to do ice nine with me this year. Dang it, but thanks.
CURRENT CONDITIONS??
In another thread, I recently posted some pics and a TR from N Pk, Dana, and U Notch from 3 weeks ago (8/3-5/10). My observations of the conditions back then:
N Peak – fun styrofoam snow with some ice.
Dana – sloppy snow over old ice with some rock debris already making its appearance.
U Notch – soft, almost sloppy snow with some ice up high in the couloir – lots and lots of loose rocks ready to launch.
Conditions are perhaps now better and more icy than then. Probably getting better as the season progresses. Hit them before the sun shines on 'em and have a good time. Helmet and good luck suggested.
Another observation: hiked the sunny north couloir (original route) on Mt. Abbot (13,704') on 8/16/10. Ski poles and approach shoes were adequate for the relatively mellow suncupped snow. Party of 2 who came up as I was descending used their crampons and axes.
With last winter's decent snowfall, it's amazing to see Mendel so dry in The Chief's pictures. Dang.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Aug 27, 2010 - 04:00pm PT
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Though I don't think this is one of the classic Sierra couloirs, here are a couple of Mt. Abbot pics showing the snow (not ice) conditions from 8/16/10:
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Flanders!
Trad climber
June Lake, CA
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Aug 27, 2010 - 04:55pm PT
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did the Feather Peak Coulior on 8.26.10
Doug
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Aug 27, 2010 - 05:41pm PT
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Beautiful shots Doug !
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Sep 17, 2010 - 01:32am PT
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Soloed the Dana Couloir this morning -
Bergschrund is open, but there was a good snowbridge on the right hand side. The ice now stretches all the way across the couloir, but less so on the left. Beautiful textured ice, clear as glass in some places.
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superbum
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Any up to date info on Feather?
Or any other Sierra Ice?
Let's keep the beta buoyant!
vic
10-02-10
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motoservo
Big Wall climber
Austin, TX
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Went to climb Left Mendel Couloir (Ice 9) this weekend. Didn't get close enough to really see the condition of the ice but there was lots of it. Got hit with what I assume is the first significant snowfall of the season when we woke up Sunday morning so we had to turn back.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Oct 17, 2010 - 11:49am PT
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Red Slate Mountain's north couloir yesterday -
Simul-soloed with a couple of guys from socal (John and Sean) who happened to get there at the same time. ~6 inches of snow in the couloir from the last storm, so you need a partner just to help break trail :)
But there was still some ice & neve exposed, making for a fun climb. The left turn about 3/4 of the way up led to three sub-chutes with some fun & easy mixed. Top out is literally yards from the summit.
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BMcC
Trad climber
Livermore
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Oct 18, 2010 - 01:25am PT
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Rhyang - congrats on getting Red Slate before more snow fell. Nice pic! Thanks for the update on conditions.
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Oct 30, 2010 - 12:13pm PT
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would love to get on some alpine ice one week from today... maybe the recent snowfall will have blown/melted off (four or five days of sunny high-pressure forecast)
anyone got fresh beta?
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Bad Climber
climber
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Oct 30, 2010 - 12:29pm PT
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Great photo of Red Slate! That makes a fine solo. I've done most of the classic couloirs in the Sierras, and for my taste, when the angle isn't that steep, I prefer doing them in early season, snowy conditions. I've done the right Mendel three times, always somewhat early season. This means the easy angled stuff is solid neve/step kicking, and the steep narrow part is nice ice. I've also seen some spectacular rock fall down the N. face of Mendel, too. I'm not kidding--HOUSE-sized boulders roaring into the basin, clouds of dust. We could easily make out the different facets of the monster chunk as it spun down the wall. We were camped on the opposite side of the valley below Lemark Col. On that trip, we climbed Darwin instead!
BAd
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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Oct 30, 2010 - 04:35pm PT
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powder!
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PeteC
climber
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Oct 30, 2010 - 05:20pm PT
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ignore powderdan. he says that about 100 times a day. it's like Tourette's Syndrome.
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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unsettled weather bump
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powderdan
Social climber
mammoth lakes
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powder!!!
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PeteC
climber
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see what I mean..
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NMR
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 29, 2012 - 01:07am PT
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With the impending opening of Tioga Pass I am curious what some of these routes look like this time of year. I know the alpine ice conditions wouldn't be present but, for example, would the Dana couloir be an enjoyable snow climb in May? Or will it just be too warm wet snow?
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NMR
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Apr 29, 2012 - 04:19pm PT
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Bump?
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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would anyone know how the current snow pack is likely to affect the usual suspects (U-Notch, Mendel, etc.) over summer into fall? perhaps this would be a good year (for a change) to get out the tools?
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seano
Mountain climber
none
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It could be a good year for fall ice, or maybe even "too easy." The last big Sierra snow year, 2011, I did Feather, North, and Red Slate, and all were mostly fun névé.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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bump
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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This one should be more popular. It's on the left side of the north face of Humphreys, and links up to the East Ridge at the big notch where the rock climbing starts. It's easy, but it eliminates all the slogging on the east ridge, making for a much more enjoyable ascent.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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we're skiing them now,
long slog in due to road closures for snow but road progress every day. loose wet everywhere last week, corn this week, snowed this weekend
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Where were you at Mo?
We were out at mt. Gilbert, nevahbe ridge and mt. Warren. The bit of snow shut us down yesterday. Couloirs are fat now. The conness area is unrecognizable.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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May 20, 2017 - 04:14pm PT
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has anyone been up in the evolution range recently? looking for a localized assessment of snowpack on Mount Mendel...
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Yinzer
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 21, 2017 - 07:14am PT
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The snowpack is fat in & near the evolution range.. S & W facing slopes are likely thinner but stashes of snow easily over 10 feet exist on the N & E aspects I would think ...
I went up Emerson's NE coul about a week and a half ago and took a photo from the top that looks towards Mendel I think.. I was aiming for Sill & North Pal and those were the ones I recognized.
The snow becomes almost impassable due to postholing and softness by around 9-10am even as high as 10,000' & up. Skis are essential... on foot you'd just be hating life. 2-3-4am trailhead departure times have been helpful...
Also putting in a photo of the fat snowpack beneath Sill, from Thursday... just because <3
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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May 21, 2017 - 07:43am PT
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Mt. Conness and North Peak from Black Mountain summit ridge this last Friday.....yes you want/need skis.
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