High Sierra Couloir Report

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 120 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
crotch

climber
Oct 3, 2006 - 10:20pm PT
We climbed the Cats Ears Couloir on Mt. Dade on Sunday. Mostly neve with a few patches of ice. Schrund is not a problem. There's a loose class 3 rock band about 100' above the schrund. As we reached the top of the couloir the skies opened up and didn't let up until the next morning. I'd guess that a foot or more of fresh snow fell above 12,000' in the Rock Creek area this weekend.

The previous weekend, we climbed Dana & found perfect styrofoam with about 75' of optional blue ice in the middle of the gully.
markhusbands

Mountain climber
Mariposa, CA
Oct 16, 2006 - 08:54am PT
Any recent info on the Mendel Couloirs or V-notch Couloir?
cybele

Ice climber
finally, west of the Mississippi
Oct 18, 2006 - 10:49am PT
Bump. Anybody have any more info? Thanks.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Oct 18, 2006 - 11:48am PT
Huh?...Smrz? Knutson? Harrington (I'm guessing maybe Split Mt.)?
TYeary

Mountain climber
Calif.
Oct 18, 2006 - 12:02pm PT
I was on Gilbert Oct.,2-4. It was in good condition. Sorry no pics. Snowed 2-3 inches on us at camp. A bit more above. Made the moraine approach very tedious.
Tony
travelin_light

Trad climber
california
Oct 18, 2006 - 12:28pm PT
TYeary,
When you say, "Gilbert was in good condition," do you mean alpine ice? snow,styrofoam?
tdoughty

Mountain climber
descanso, ca
Oct 18, 2006 - 01:23pm PT
N. Gully, Mt. Emmerson 10-8-06

markhusbands

Mountain climber
Mariposa, CA
Oct 18, 2006 - 04:40pm PT
well, looks sort of icy above the cups.
markhusbands

Mountain climber
Mariposa, CA
Oct 19, 2006 - 03:45pm PT
any recent trip reports to mendel or the palisades?
travelin_light

Trad climber
california
Oct 19, 2006 - 03:54pm PT
ha! Funny you should say that. My buddies went up to the U-Notch last weekend. There was so much snow I guess it took five hours to reach the coulior from the moraine. I guess there was some ice (i have not got the details yet). They did two pitches and got stormed off. They said it was cold as hell. you boys out there? post up!
markhusbands

Mountain climber
Mariposa, CA
Oct 19, 2006 - 04:31pm PT
not encouraging...
TYeary

Mountain climber
Calif.
Oct 19, 2006 - 06:27pm PT
Gilbert had about 2-3 inches of fresh, wet snow over alpine ice. Short streach of water ice in the middle section. Some black ice as well. Upper half was all ice covered by a few inches of snow. All in all pretty nice. I hear it snowed again dumping more snow so perhaps the game's over for this year.
Tony
ADK

climber
truckee
Oct 23, 2006 - 04:50pm PT
Anyone know if the colouir climbing is still good for this coming weekend? Any specific info would be appreciated...thinking of going down the east side for a sat. climb.
dave

climber
Earth
Oct 23, 2006 - 06:02pm PT
Did N.E. Couloir, North Peak yeaterday. Mostly styro foam/ neve some patches of harder stuff. I put in a couple of 22cm. screws which seemed to bite into something inspiring. Fun, no wind and a beautiful day.
ADK

climber
truckee
Oct 24, 2006 - 12:12am PT
Thanks Dave
marky

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2006 - 12:26am PT
did Dana couloir yesterday. mix of frozen snow, alpine ice, and dinner-plating water ice. would have been a romp had I not been sick.
rhyang

Ice climber
SJC
Oct 24, 2006 - 08:40am PT
hey Mark - when you say 'alpine ice' I assume you mean neve ? How much water ice was actually present ? Got any pics ?
rhyang

Ice climber
SJC
Oct 29, 2006 - 08:41pm PT
Answered my own question - went and soloed the Dana Couloir this morning. Lots of hard neve, a couple hundred feet of blue ice in the top half or so in streaks and patches, some pockets of fresh snow (well relatively fresh anyway), and some aerated whitish ice here and there.

Seemed like it would be fairly easy to avoid most of the ice in the couloir if one so desired (and I did not :)

Solstice Couloir looked like it was still filled in to the top. When I soloed it on 9-Sept it was all neve, but I thought I caught a glimpse of blue up high this morning ... maybe it was just a shadow ...
McC

Trad climber
Livermore Ca
Oct 31, 2006 - 12:08am PT
Hiked the right-most of the three couloirs left of the summit of North Peak on Saturday-10/28. Neve with no ice exposed. Some exercise but no adrenaline. Left-most gully had rocks exposed in 2 places -- looked easy to get over or around the rocks. Upper prtions of the middle gully appeared entirely melted out. Nice views from the top -- another beautiful day in the Sierra.

Friends of a friend climbed Ice 9 in mid-September. Sounded and looked like even less ice than 9/04 when I last climbed it -- so little ice to get over crux chockstone that they took off their crampons to climb up to and through the crux, and about 50 feet higher. Said they found the most beautiful line of ice had "ever laid eyes on. The ice was FAT, crystal clear, and there was no evidence of anyone ever having climbed it." Nice job Brian and Calvin!
marky

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2006 - 01:33pm PT
any news? thinking of getting a last blast in this weekend. Mendel? Palisades?
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