bearbnz
Trad climber
Bridgeport, CA
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Aug 30, 2006 - 03:14pm PT
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Here is a photo of the North Peak couloirs from Monday August 21. Definitely snow, but firm snow in the A.M.
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Ultrabiker
Ice climber
Eastside
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Aug 30, 2006 - 06:25pm PT
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WOW!!!!! Check out #2 or the Center Couloir!!! Looks like the funnel up top (2/3rds of the way up and can't be seen clearly) goes through!!! BEARBNZ's, did you notice if that is true. If it is, that is a fine line and goes @ WI4+/5 with an 80deg 5-8' wide by 40' long deep channel that only forms once every, well, last time I saw it/did it was back in 98'. Got to go SOLO it...maybe tomorrow!
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marky
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 19, 2006 - 12:07pm PT
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anyone checked out Mendel N Face lately? Palisades?
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Scott_Nelson
Trad climber
San Diego
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Sep 19, 2006 - 12:18pm PT
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I heard Ice Nine was melted out as of July. = (
Too hot this summer I guess.
Other coulouirs look to be shaping up.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Sep 19, 2006 - 01:07pm PT
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The impression I get is that the gradual transformation from snow to neve to ice is only one part of the picture. Melt / freeze cycles and rainfall helps that process.
I was up in the east couloir of Split this past June with someone who swears he had seen ice in it four years before. Only it was too warm and we found a waterfall where the steep ice would be formed (in colder temps). However, last November there was a nice pitch of WI3 there (see pics on summitpost - I've met all the guys who climbed it last Nov).
It probably requires snowmelt and colder temps to form the steep ice in Split's east couloir and maybe Ice Nine & Moynier too. Potentially all these may re-form later in the season with the return of colder weather. But I have never been up any of these. Just my guess.
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ADK
Trad climber
Reno, Nevada
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Sep 19, 2006 - 01:49pm PT
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Soloed the dana couloir on saturday car to car 4.5 hours. There is not much blue ice, mostly neve. The schrund is easy to cross on the left side and there are many rests along the way. I was running pretty late on accident but id recommend it for an amazing sunset
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addiroid
Big Wall climber
Long Beach, CA
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Sep 19, 2006 - 04:06pm PT
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Did North Peak last weekend. It was neve. The schrund was passable on the left with about a 6' climb on vertical styrofoam or a shitty rock/neve chimney/ow on the left. Pretty solo'able for someone who knows their sh#t (not me) when it comes to ice. The rest of the route was nice with the final third being easy enough to grab the top of the shaft of the tool, and walk up on all 4's.
Great to run up the NW ridge of Conness too after that!!
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marky
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 20, 2006 - 10:13pm PT
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bump
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crotch
climber
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Sep 20, 2006 - 10:46pm PT
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Both the St. Jean and the central coulior on Split are melted out as of 3 weeks ago.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Sep 25, 2006 - 11:27am PT
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Thanks for the beta about Split. When you say 'central' couloir do you mean the East couloir (the one with the chimney pitch) ? Which part appeared to be melted out ?
(oh, and bump :)
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crotch
climber
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Sep 25, 2006 - 01:44pm PT
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re: Split Central- I was referring to the couloir between the two Galen Rowell aretes (NE Arete and NW Arete) in the 100 Sierra Classics book. OK, back from a look on Summitpost. I'm talking about the E. Couloir. Sorry for the confusion.
There were patches of snow covering maybe 20-40% of the E. Couloir, but mostly dry rock, especially down low. I'll try and post a pic some time this week. I was surprised because from 395, it looked like the couloir might be "in".
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crotch
climber
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Sep 25, 2006 - 08:10pm PT
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Split E. Couloir in August.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Sep 25, 2006 - 09:17pm PT
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Thanks ! Well, I guess the approach would have sucked anyway...
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forjan
Ice climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Sep 26, 2006 - 11:54am PT
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crotch,
Sh*t! I was gonna with rhyang in early November to do this one. What date exactly in August did you take this pic of Split Mtn's East (Central) Couloir?
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crotch
climber
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Sep 26, 2006 - 01:58pm PT
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It would have been labor day weekend.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Sep 30, 2006 - 06:46pm PT
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Soloed the left couloir on North Peak today : all neve, 45-ish degrees, two melted out spots (probably class 3 or so).
Bottom half of right couloir looked like it was still neve, but didn't see much more than that - wanted to beat any incoming weather. It was all neve when I soloed it on 10-Sept.
I can never figure out what's going on in that middle couloir :)
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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North couloir on North Peak Sep 23 (right most route). Frozen styrofoam the whole way. 15 foot vertical step crossing the schrund then smooth sailing. Fun. Good link-up with north ridge of Conness if you are in shape (found outI'm not) :-) 17 degrees at saddleback lake the previous night. Burrrr..
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10b4me
Trad climber
California
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went in to solo the Dana couloir yesterday. very little ice, weather was threatening, and there were two people moving pretty slow on the route. decided to cancel the climb.
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salad
climber
San Diego
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any info on Gilbert?
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