craigslist score - what would Krshna do?

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Roots

Mountain climber
Tustin OC
Nov 7, 2013 - 12:49pm PT
IMHO getting a deal on used pro (this include ropes) is not worth the risk...even if it was free.

That goes for partners too. I was climbing with a guy that told me his whole kit was put together with used gear from internet. I stopped climbing with him.
Rankin

Social climber
Greensboro, North Carolina
Nov 7, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
That is indeed an Edelweiss Flash, 10mm. I have that rope. It's a bargain basement rope: heavy, not supple. I bought mine as a 70m for about a hundred bucks, and cut it in half to use as a gym rope. Everyone in the gym hates belaying with it.
splitter

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 7, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
what probably really went down with nature and the dude's mom...
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Nov 7, 2013 - 02:06pm PT
I'll buy used hardware but never would I consider it worth it to trust used soft goods. I wouldn't trust a sling or a draw, which in most cases will be one part of a system full of redundancy. I've bought used cams but always reslung 'em.

A used rope, though? I can't understand why that would even be tempting. You're worth more than whatever $ you save on using a rope sold to you by some rando out there...

It also strikes me as shady whenever I see someone selling a used rope online. I guess it's a bias I've got. The rope is sacrosanct, man! Don't roll dice with ropes!
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
I didn't buy the gear because of the rope. the shoes alone were worth the $40.

truth though... this kid just bought the cheapest gear he could find, went top roping three times - beginnerish climbs, is moving to florida and wanted to sell the gear. he had it stored in his room.

I'm waiting for werner to show up and spray about how back in the day they'd just toss all their ropes in a pile and when they needed one just grab whatever was there. or something like that.

the helmet - looks brand new. not a scratch. Suspect or good?

two of these draws... brand new. not a scratch or any wear from a rope on them. suspect or new? (they are crappy BDs)
splitter

Trad climber
SoCal Hodad, surfing the galactic plane
Nov 7, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
nature,

you got the deal of a lifetime, imho! just singled out the rope for apparent reasons. i, or anyone for that matter, would have bought the stuff with or without the rope. i'm sure that you are aware of the risks involved involving used ropes. anything that i posted was inconsideration of any noobs who might be lurking. including the n00b cougar pickup wannabe vid (we all know yo da' man, bro).

edit: "back in the day" - the difference with that is: you can trust all yer friends, regarding the history of the rope. i'm pretty sure that they didn't use any of those ropes to tow their cars to Merced, or out of some ditch, etc! I'd trust their judgement as to when a rope needed to be retired. Sure, we all have heard some of those Bird stories about the sketchy looking ropes. But pretty sure he didn't tie one end to a tree, and use the other end to lift some truck out of some sink hole and then, with fifty feet of slack, have it drop back into the hole, or whatever. extreme & highly unlikely scenario, no doubt. but, who knows what someone (especially a n00b who quit climbing after one outing) used it for? ...just sayin.
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2013 - 03:37pm PT
I know what you're saying. and yes you must include the disclaimer for n00bs and locker.

Here's the thing. I trust the dudes story thus trust the history of this gear. As noted above it's a heavy stiff rope. I'm sure it's fine for leading but at best I'll use it for top roping. I've got a good lead rope but would love to use it less for top roping. Or maybe It'll just get fixed somewhere (had a dude by three old ropes he was using for fixing for guiding)

here's another craigs list score:

Credit: nature

I could go on....
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 7, 2013 - 04:25pm PT
Kinda looks like an Imlay fire canyon rope. If so...it'd be very static. TR only!
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 7, 2013 - 04:42pm PT
^^^^---- I think you might be right. it seems heavy and stiff and doesn't seem like it's a 10mm.

and that makes a ton more sense. with three quick draws the guy obviously wasn't into leading. it also explains why it doesn't have an tags at either end.

http://www.imlaycanyongear.com/ropes.php

thanks for that piece of info Brian. TR only. or haul line. perfect.


Anyone ever seen the movie Take it to the Limit? Best climbing move Evar!
"Screw this, let's go toproping!"

Edit: alright... here's a question i should know the answer too... when it's stated a rope is 9.8mm what is being measured? I just put my 9.8 up against a ruler and it's looking more like 11mm. This cord in question looks more like 10mm. granted i'm eyeballing but I ain't blind and it ain't that hard to see.
aguacaliente

climber
Nov 7, 2013 - 08:12pm PT
If you wanted to know whether the rope is static or dynamic you might be able to measure the percent elongation under body weight load.

Seems unlikely a bargain hunting guy would have a relatively pricey static canyoneering rope? but I guess you never know where he might have got it from.
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
Nov 7, 2013 - 08:24pm PT
There was an article in one of the magazines a few years back where they bought a bunch of various diameter ropes and measured their thickness.

They found only a rough correlation between the stated diameter and the measured diameter. The numbers were all over the place.
Deekaid

climber
Nov 7, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
since when are static ropes more expensive than dynamic ropes?
i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Nov 7, 2013 - 08:45pm PT
it's because it's a higher quality static rope as compared to a bargain dynamic rope.

and would you take $40 shipped for the rope?
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 8, 2013 - 03:45pm PT
I'll think about that offer. thanks. let me determine if it a static line. I'm sort of feeling if it is I really did score and my want to keep it for The Hallucinogen Wall
Deekaid

climber
Nov 8, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
gotcha ...those edelweiss flash ropes do suck...like a steel cable ...no hand at all
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 8, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
Yeah, Doug, those Canyon Fire Imlay ropes wear like iron.

Look at the weave...yellow box with a red center. I've never seen an Edelweiss or other climbing rope with that pattern or weave.

That it isn't marked on the ends is telling. I've not seen, at least in recent times, a rope made in Europe for rock climbing that doesn't have the CE/UIAA tags on the ends. My Edelweiss rope has the tags on the ends.

Should be hot melted through the core.

Should feel pretty rough and stiff. Fairly good hand when used a bit. Can be a tad bitey when new.

Imlay stuff is available in your area. Wouldn't be uncommon to find.

http://www.summithut.com/products/83mm-x-300-ft-canyon-fire-rope/

Weigh it. Compare the weight to an Imlay cord. Voila. Might be easier than measuring the elongation...
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 8, 2013 - 06:19pm PT
since when are static ropes more expensive than dynamic ropes?

When they started using Technora as a rope fiber...

http://www.sterlingrope.com/product/155018/CT/_/CanyonTech
Deekaid

climber
Nov 8, 2013 - 06:58pm PT
thanks for the Intel I have never bought a static rope except from Bluewater.

damn! pricey
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