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The Doctor
Social climber
Da Bronx
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 16, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
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Anyone know how old the oldest person to free climb the Captain is. I thought maybe Doug Englekirk or Steve Schneider, maybe 46 years young. Would like to know as I will be attempting Golden Gate in October a few months shy of my 50th bday.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Sep 16, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
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Heinz Zak did a Freerider free ascent. Not sure how old he was at the time but he was up there.
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Sep 16, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
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good luck!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 16, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
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Jim Herson freed the salathe, he's like 100.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Sep 16, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
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Pretty sure Steve has the oldest free ascent at this point.
Englekirk did the Freerider in '04 IIRC. He was either 42 or 43.
Schipoopi did it in '05, no idea how old he was....but he's sponsored by Geritol, so...
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The Doctor
Social climber
Da Bronx
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
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Thanks I will. Should be a grand adventure!
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The Doctor
Social climber
Da Bronx
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
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Yeah, but I think I'll try one partner and 3-4 days. No sleds.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Sep 16, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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A quick search of the forum here has someone claiming Schneider was 44 in 05. Being the oldest to free the thing sounds like a worthy goal. Where is Hudon, maybe waiting to set the bar really high?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Sep 16, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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JLP, if you don't have anything mean, nasty, unfair and anonymous to say,
why say anything at all?
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Gene
climber
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Sep 16, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
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Heinz Zak did a Freerider free ascent. Not sure how old he was at the time but he was up there.
HZ was 40 at the time.
g
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Prod
Trad climber
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Sep 16, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
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Good luck Doc.
Prod.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 16, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
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Which routes are considered in regards to the OP?
W face?
Lurking fear?
What about on the far right side?
Lost in transeltion?
Prophet?
Or does everybody consider the freerider the starting point?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Sep 16, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
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I don't think Lurking Fear has even been repeated free since the FA. And with multiple 13 slab pitches, no big surprise.
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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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Sep 16, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
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this is a stretch,
I know
but....
it is possible that some uber honed 75 year old slovakian carp
cruised into the valley and fired off free rider and...
I know
I know its a stretch....
but didn't tell anyone or spew about it on the web
and even a bigger stretch...
none of the ST local knew about it.
just sayin'
scratch that...."just sayin" what a load ofcrap.
either say it or don't.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 16, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
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Yuji's looking pretty old now and still climbing 14c trad
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Sep 16, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Sep 17, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
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Pretty sure Freerider, Golden Gate and the Salathe are the most repeated and what people consider "freeing" El Cap.
El Nino, El Corazon also see ascents each year now.
Like Will said Lurking Fear appears to be un-repeated, same for the dihedral wall. Perhaps even the West Buttress...
Pretty sure that might change this season. I know Nik Berry was going to try Dihedral Wall but had to change plans due to the last raptor closures.
 Luke
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Sep 17, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
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Steck in his 70s freeing E Butt is pretty outrageous.
I'll bet in the coming decades we'e going to see age records crushed all over the place.
Being able to free climb El Cap at any age is pretty darn proud.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Sep 17, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
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Yeah, WButt unrepeated too unless Matt went back up there. I think he only got shut down on bagging the FFA (after establishing the variations than eventually made the route go free) because one of those hard slab pitches was wet or something. It was his vision and work that made it possible for the T&B show.
This thread needs moar pikchurs:
Go gramps, go!
Credit: some dude from oregon with a fake name
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MisterE
climber
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Sep 17, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
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Worthy goal, my friend!
Best of luck!
Erik
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