Oldest person to free El Cap?

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The Doctor

Social climber
Da Bronx
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 16, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
Anyone know how old the oldest person to free climb the Captain is. I thought maybe Doug Englekirk or Steve Schneider, maybe 46 years young. Would like to know as I will be attempting Golden Gate in October a few months shy of my 50th bday.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Sep 16, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
Heinz Zak did a Freerider free ascent. Not sure how old he was at the time but he was up there.
Baggins

Boulder climber
Sep 16, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
good luck!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Sep 16, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
Jim Herson freed the salathe, he's like 100.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 16, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
Pretty sure Steve has the oldest free ascent at this point.

Englekirk did the Freerider in '04 IIRC. He was either 42 or 43.
Schipoopi did it in '05, no idea how old he was....but he's sponsored by Geritol, so...
The Doctor

Social climber
Da Bronx
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
Thanks I will. Should be a grand adventure!
The Doctor

Social climber
Da Bronx
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
Yeah, but I think I'll try one partner and 3-4 days. No sleds.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Sep 16, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
A quick search of the forum here has someone claiming Schneider was 44 in 05. Being the oldest to free the thing sounds like a worthy goal. Where is Hudon, maybe waiting to set the bar really high?
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Sep 16, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
JLP, if you don't have anything mean, nasty, unfair and anonymous to say,
why say anything at all?
Gene

climber
Sep 16, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
Heinz Zak did a Freerider free ascent. Not sure how old he was at the time but he was up there.


HZ was 40 at the time.

g
Prod

Trad climber
Sep 16, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
Good luck Doc.

Prod.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Sep 16, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
Which routes are considered in regards to the OP?

W face?
Lurking fear?

What about on the far right side?

Lost in transeltion?
Prophet?

Or does everybody consider the freerider the starting point?

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 16, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
I don't think Lurking Fear has even been repeated free since the FA. And with multiple 13 slab pitches, no big surprise.
bit'er ol' guy

climber
the past
Sep 16, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
this is a stretch,

I know

but....

it is possible that some uber honed 75 year old slovakian carp

cruised into the valley and fired off free rider and...

I know

I know its a stretch....

but didn't tell anyone or spew about it on the web

and even a bigger stretch...

none of the ST local knew about it.

just sayin'

scratch that...."just sayin" what a load ofcrap.

either say it or don't.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 16, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
Yuji's looking pretty old now and still climbing 14c trad
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Sep 16, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Sep 17, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
Pretty sure Freerider, Golden Gate and the Salathe are the most repeated and what people consider "freeing" El Cap.

El Nino, El Corazon also see ascents each year now.

Like Will said Lurking Fear appears to be un-repeated, same for the dihedral wall. Perhaps even the West Buttress...

Pretty sure that might change this season. I know Nik Berry was going to try Dihedral Wall but had to change plans due to the last raptor closures.

 Luke
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Sep 17, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
Steck in his 70s freeing E Butt is pretty outrageous.

I'll bet in the coming decades we'e going to see age records crushed all over the place.

Being able to free climb El Cap at any age is pretty darn proud.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 17, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
Yeah, WButt unrepeated too unless Matt went back up there. I think he only got shut down on bagging the FFA (after establishing the variations than eventually made the route go free) because one of those hard slab pitches was wet or something. It was his vision and work that made it possible for the T&B show.

This thread needs moar pikchurs:

Go gramps, go!
Credit: some dude from oregon with a fake name
MisterE

climber
Sep 17, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
Worthy goal, my friend!

Best of luck!

Erik
Messages 1 - 20 of total 32 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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