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Messages 1 - 32 of total 32 in this topic |
The Doctor
Social climber
Da Bronx
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 16, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
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Anyone know how old the oldest person to free climb the Captain is. I thought maybe Doug Englekirk or Steve Schneider, maybe 46 years young. Would like to know as I will be attempting Golden Gate in October a few months shy of my 50th bday.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Sep 16, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
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Heinz Zak did a Freerider free ascent. Not sure how old he was at the time but he was up there.
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Baggins
Boulder climber
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Sep 16, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
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good luck!
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 16, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
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Jim Herson freed the salathe, he's like 100.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Sep 16, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
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Pretty sure Steve has the oldest free ascent at this point.
Englekirk did the Freerider in '04 IIRC. He was either 42 or 43.
Schipoopi did it in '05, no idea how old he was....but he's sponsored by Geritol, so...
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The Doctor
Social climber
Da Bronx
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
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Thanks I will. Should be a grand adventure!
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The Doctor
Social climber
Da Bronx
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
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Yeah, but I think I'll try one partner and 3-4 days. No sleds.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Sep 16, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
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A quick search of the forum here has someone claiming Schneider was 44 in 05. Being the oldest to free the thing sounds like a worthy goal. Where is Hudon, maybe waiting to set the bar really high?
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Sep 16, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
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JLP, if you don't have anything mean, nasty, unfair and anonymous to say,
why say anything at all?
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Gene
climber
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Sep 16, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
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Heinz Zak did a Freerider free ascent. Not sure how old he was at the time but he was up there.
HZ was 40 at the time.
g
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Prod
Trad climber
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Sep 16, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
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Good luck Doc.
Prod.
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 16, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
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Which routes are considered in regards to the OP?
W face?
Lurking fear?
What about on the far right side?
Lost in transeltion?
Prophet?
Or does everybody consider the freerider the starting point?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Sep 16, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
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I don't think Lurking Fear has even been repeated free since the FA. And with multiple 13 slab pitches, no big surprise.
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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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Sep 16, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
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this is a stretch,
I know
but....
it is possible that some uber honed 75 year old slovakian carp
cruised into the valley and fired off free rider and...
I know
I know its a stretch....
but didn't tell anyone or spew about it on the web
and even a bigger stretch...
none of the ST local knew about it.
just sayin'
scratch that...."just sayin" what a load ofcrap.
either say it or don't.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 16, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
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Yuji's looking pretty old now and still climbing 14c trad
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Sep 16, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
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cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
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Sep 17, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
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Pretty sure Freerider, Golden Gate and the Salathe are the most repeated and what people consider "freeing" El Cap.
El Nino, El Corazon also see ascents each year now.
Like Will said Lurking Fear appears to be un-repeated, same for the dihedral wall. Perhaps even the West Buttress...
Pretty sure that might change this season. I know Nik Berry was going to try Dihedral Wall but had to change plans due to the last raptor closures.
Luke
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Sep 17, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
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Steck in his 70s freeing E Butt is pretty outrageous.
I'll bet in the coming decades we'e going to see age records crushed all over the place.
Being able to free climb El Cap at any age is pretty darn proud.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Sep 17, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
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Yeah, WButt unrepeated too unless Matt went back up there. I think he only got shut down on bagging the FFA (after establishing the variations than eventually made the route go free) because one of those hard slab pitches was wet or something. It was his vision and work that made it possible for the T&B show.
This thread needs moar pikchurs:
Go gramps, go!
Credit: some dude from oregon with a fake name
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MisterE
climber
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Sep 17, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
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Worthy goal, my friend!
Best of luck!
Erik
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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May 17, 2014 - 07:16am PT
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So, does anyone have an update on the Doctor and Joel's attempt on Golden Gate.
Joel was a beast at Indian Creek!
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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May 17, 2014 - 10:17pm PT
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Bump!
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johnr9q
Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
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May 17, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
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I did El Cap free when I was 68 and led every pitch but one. (not gonna say what route)
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Oregon
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May 17, 2014 - 11:33pm PT
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....or what pitch
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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May 18, 2014 - 07:25pm PT
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i heard they added 2 bolts, but it was on rap so its OK...
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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May 18, 2019 - 09:16pm PT
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so, looks like i still have the record. freerider at age 45, partnered by the late great sean "STANLEY" Leary, who, thankfully led all the cruxes on the final day. steve schneider
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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May 18, 2019 - 09:21pm PT
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I think Platinum may be a contender for the honor.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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May 18, 2019 - 10:18pm PT
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Jlp had it right, Hudon is looking to blow shipoopi out of the water by almost 20 years . How old is rob miller?
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NBB
Social climber
Boulder
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May 18, 2019 - 10:26pm PT
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I might be 2nd oldest in 2015 at age 43. I lead the slabs, monster, teflon, picture book and scotty burke, among others. I'd like to go back.
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Jim Hornibrook
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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May 28, 2019 - 08:54pm PT
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If West Face counts I did it at 48 years old, though my bad ass partner led most of the hard stuff. Thirteen hours car to car felt fast for this old man.
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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May 28, 2019 - 10:42pm PT
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it is possible that some uber honed 75 year old slovakian carp
cruised into the valley and fired off free rider and...
I know
I know its a stretch....
but didn't tell anyone or spew about it on the web
and even a bigger stretch...
none of the ST local knew about it.
Nope. Sorry. That's not a thing...
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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May 29, 2019 - 06:36am PT
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Mark Hudon was headed for Freerider this spring--age 63 and crushing like a maniac. With this rough weather, does anyone know if he made it?
BAd
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