Oldest person to free El Cap?

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Messages 1 - 32 of total 32 in this topic
The Doctor

Social climber
Da Bronx
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 16, 2013 - 04:39pm PT
Anyone know how old the oldest person to free climb the Captain is. I thought maybe Doug Englekirk or Steve Schneider, maybe 46 years young. Would like to know as I will be attempting Golden Gate in October a few months shy of my 50th bday.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Sep 16, 2013 - 04:41pm PT
Heinz Zak did a Freerider free ascent. Not sure how old he was at the time but he was up there.
Baggins

Boulder climber
Sep 16, 2013 - 04:45pm PT
good luck!
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Sep 16, 2013 - 04:46pm PT
Jim Herson freed the salathe, he's like 100.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 16, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
Pretty sure Steve has the oldest free ascent at this point.

Englekirk did the Freerider in '04 IIRC. He was either 42 or 43.
Schipoopi did it in '05, no idea how old he was....but he's sponsored by Geritol, so...
The Doctor

Social climber
Da Bronx
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
Thanks I will. Should be a grand adventure!
The Doctor

Social climber
Da Bronx
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 16, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
Yeah, but I think I'll try one partner and 3-4 days. No sleds.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Sep 16, 2013 - 05:27pm PT
A quick search of the forum here has someone claiming Schneider was 44 in 05. Being the oldest to free the thing sounds like a worthy goal. Where is Hudon, maybe waiting to set the bar really high?
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Sep 16, 2013 - 05:49pm PT
JLP, if you don't have anything mean, nasty, unfair and anonymous to say,
why say anything at all?
Gene

climber
Sep 16, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
Heinz Zak did a Freerider free ascent. Not sure how old he was at the time but he was up there.


HZ was 40 at the time.

g
Prod

Trad climber
Sep 16, 2013 - 05:54pm PT
Good luck Doc.

Prod.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Sep 16, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
Which routes are considered in regards to the OP?

W face?
Lurking fear?

What about on the far right side?

Lost in transeltion?
Prophet?

Or does everybody consider the freerider the starting point?

Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 16, 2013 - 06:36pm PT
I don't think Lurking Fear has even been repeated free since the FA. And with multiple 13 slab pitches, no big surprise.
bit'er ol' guy

climber
the past
Sep 16, 2013 - 11:23pm PT
this is a stretch,

I know

but....

it is possible that some uber honed 75 year old slovakian carp

cruised into the valley and fired off free rider and...

I know

I know its a stretch....

but didn't tell anyone or spew about it on the web

and even a bigger stretch...

none of the ST local knew about it.

just sayin'

scratch that...."just sayin" what a load ofcrap.

either say it or don't.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Sep 16, 2013 - 11:31pm PT
Yuji's looking pretty old now and still climbing 14c trad
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Sep 16, 2013 - 11:57pm PT
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Sep 17, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
Pretty sure Freerider, Golden Gate and the Salathe are the most repeated and what people consider "freeing" El Cap.

El Nino, El Corazon also see ascents each year now.

Like Will said Lurking Fear appears to be un-repeated, same for the dihedral wall. Perhaps even the West Buttress...

Pretty sure that might change this season. I know Nik Berry was going to try Dihedral Wall but had to change plans due to the last raptor closures.

 Luke
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Sep 17, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
Steck in his 70s freeing E Butt is pretty outrageous.

I'll bet in the coming decades we'e going to see age records crushed all over the place.

Being able to free climb El Cap at any age is pretty darn proud.
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 17, 2013 - 01:34pm PT
Yeah, WButt unrepeated too unless Matt went back up there. I think he only got shut down on bagging the FFA (after establishing the variations than eventually made the route go free) because one of those hard slab pitches was wet or something. It was his vision and work that made it possible for the T&B show.

This thread needs moar pikchurs:

Go gramps, go!
Credit: some dude from oregon with a fake name
MisterE

climber
Sep 17, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
Worthy goal, my friend!

Best of luck!

Erik
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
May 17, 2014 - 07:16am PT
So, does anyone have an update on the Doctor and Joel's attempt on Golden Gate.

Joel was a beast at Indian Creek!
Reeotch

climber
4 Corners Area
May 17, 2014 - 10:17pm PT
Bump!

johnr9q

Sport climber
Sacramento, Ca
May 17, 2014 - 10:51pm PT
I did El Cap free when I was 68 and led every pitch but one. (not gonna say what route)
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Oregon
May 17, 2014 - 11:33pm PT
....or what pitch
paganmonkeyboy

climber
mars...it's near nevada...
May 18, 2014 - 07:25pm PT
i heard they added 2 bolts, but it was on rap so its OK...
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
May 18, 2019 - 09:16pm PT
so, looks like i still have the record. freerider at age 45, partnered by the late great sean "STANLEY" Leary, who, thankfully led all the cruxes on the final day. steve schneider
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
May 18, 2019 - 09:21pm PT
I think Platinum may be a contender for the honor.
shylock

Social climber
mb
May 18, 2019 - 10:18pm PT
Jlp had it right, Hudon is looking to blow shipoopi out of the water by almost 20 years . How old is rob miller?
NBB

Social climber
Boulder
May 18, 2019 - 10:26pm PT
I might be 2nd oldest in 2015 at age 43. I lead the slabs, monster, teflon, picture book and scotty burke, among others. I'd like to go back.
Jim Hornibrook

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
May 28, 2019 - 08:54pm PT
If West Face counts I did it at 48 years old, though my bad ass partner led most of the hard stuff. Thirteen hours car to car felt fast for this old man.
Tom Patterson

Trad climber
Seattle
May 28, 2019 - 10:42pm PT
it is possible that some uber honed 75 year old slovakian carp

cruised into the valley and fired off free rider and...

I know

I know its a stretch....

but didn't tell anyone or spew about it on the web

and even a bigger stretch...

none of the ST local knew about it.

Nope. Sorry. That's not a thing...
Bad Climber

Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
May 29, 2019 - 06:36am PT
Mark Hudon was headed for Freerider this spring--age 63 and crushing like a maniac. With this rough weather, does anyone know if he made it?

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