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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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Sep 30, 2013 - 02:29am PT
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I was once doing a short arm-bar offwidth, pulled on a hold that turned out to be part of a giant loose block that was only visible by a tiny micro fracture in the rock. The rock smashed my arm pretty bad and I took a fall on the #6 C4 below my feet. I went to the hospital to get it checked out, very small fracture, contusions, nowhere near as bad as it could have been.
Point being, I was a little biotch and marked an X at the base of the wall with some tape, and wrote my number on the tape, hoping someone might get curious and offer to return the #6. Anyway, later after my mind settled I figured it was barely different than graphite to most eyes, so I went back the next day and rapped the thing with my arm in the sling and got my damn cam back. (Also finished dropping the block the rest of the way)
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mushroom
Trad climber
USA
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Sep 30, 2013 - 04:18am PT
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I believe it was Pass the Pitons Pete who proclaimed:
Your 'worth' on the wall is equal to booty gained less gear left behind.
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rolo
climber
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Sep 30, 2013 - 04:35am PT
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In the early 1990s in the Paine Towers two major new routes in the east face of Torre Central were hugely helped by major booty, although it is hard to tell what qualifies as booty... One of the routes honors that "gift from god" in it's name. It was hard to be too sympathetic for the party that suffered the damage. It was the Spanish duo that was infamous for spending months working on a route in El Cap with fixed ropes, for opening a new route in the Naranjo de Bulnes at an 8-meter-per-day rate while on live TV, for climbing a route in three separate sections on the southeast face of Fitz Roy and claiming it as a continuous ascent, etc. Those that found the booty did not know nor expected that the spaniards had hoped to go back to their project and route cache, which had appeared very much abandoned. The scene at basecamp when spaniards showed up must have been quite something.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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I left a small stopper on the first pitch of the Grack Center on Glacier point on Saturday. I am hoping that maybe PC will go and get it for me. I am sure you other schmucks will just keep it. It is really worth a lot to me, probably $4 or $5, and it will only take an hour or so to figure out how to get it out.
In my defense, I thought it was an ok placement, but my inexperienced second jerked on it a bit. I sent my nut tool down to her, but that did not help. None of the 3 or 4 groups following got it out either. I tried to clean it on rap and was surprised by how deep it was. "How the heck did it get down there?" Of course I have a bad memory, so maybe I put it down there. It was totally stuck. I worked on it long enough to get it loose so it would wiggle, but I could not maneuver it out of its position. Its a real puzzle.
I worked on it awhile till I realized, I was not only leaving junk on the route, but clogging the rap route. So I left it and went on down and then went on to lunch and did not get back despite intentions to maybe scramble up and work on it some more despite the 4 other parties waiting to climb the 5.6 route.
There was big blue stopper on the second pitch if somebody has the skills and tools to get it. It was completely loose and I could move it back and forth several inches at least. But it was deep and without my nut pick I could not change the orientation to find the right path to get it out. With other parties lined up below, I could not work on it very long.
Sometimes the pleasure of booty is being able to solve an extrication problem that somebody else did not solve.
Which brings me to a question. What methods are people using to remove really badly stuck and mangled cams? Hacksaw blades? Chisels?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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For clean up i use a cordless sawzal with a long metal blade. Some lady bitched me out for cleaning her mangled cam this way that had been stuck for a month @ my local crag.
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