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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 14, 2013 - 10:59am PT
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The only complaint I heard about the comp (prior to this) was from a woman:
"Psicobloc with shirts on???? Only in Utah. Shame on you. Shame on you!"
People (both male and female) like to see human bodies (both female and male). Your silly impression that is was sexist and your anti-sexy attitude doesn't stand a chance against millions of years of sexy-based evolution.
Hey, if it is/was so sexist, why are the Athletes not separated by sex? (Megan is 5th and Vasya is last on the list)
http://psicocomp.com/athletes.php
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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Aug 14, 2013 - 11:59am PT
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Maculated,
The primary premiss for your argument is false. Colette misspoke in reference to the female qualifications.
“They” decided there were too many women and they cut out the women? Any woman who wanted to compete in finals was given a place. This is not true of the men's field, which used qualifiers to cut down the amount of competitors.
It's surprising you don't know who Colette is, considering she climbs 5.14 and is a great female climbing role-model.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 14, 2013 - 01:02pm PT
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Aug 14, 2013 - 02:11pm PT
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Gyms are meat markets? And this is new?
Dingus, LOL, buddy, how would you know? When was the last time you climbed in a gym?
cheers,
Munge "haven't been to the gym in three weeks" Climber
A few more days of abstaining from the gym and I get an award.
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exposeur
Trad climber
california?
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Aug 14, 2013 - 02:23pm PT
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so, have any of y'all heard about how the russian olympics is threatening LGBT people with arrest, etc? no doubt sexism exists in climbing and should be discussed/smashed, and not to diminish that spirit of critical analysis, but the olympics is such a much, MUCH bigger deal. the climbing community was all concerned about getting included in an event that is currently openly condoning major, violent discrimination, and i don't see anyone in the climbing community talking about it..
i don't think the comp got even half the attention that one sexist ad in a magazine does... and fred becky's fingers digging into that woman's butt makes me uneasy. but imagine being arrested for just looking gay..
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enjoimx
Trad climber
SLO
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Aug 14, 2013 - 02:28pm PT
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This is why I hate climbing comps. They totally miss the point of rock climbing. I hate the whole comp scene, the drama, competition, politics, bullsh#t.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 14, 2013 - 02:35pm PT
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This is why I hate climbing discussions. They totally assume there is a point to rock climbing, other than having fun whilst climbing things.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Aug 14, 2013 - 02:57pm PT
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I hold doors, pull out chairs, remain standing till the ladies have taken their seats - sexism?
We call that "manners" where I grew up. Not everyone can be blessed with a southern heritage though.
The OP rant is exactly the kind of knee-jerk, PC run-amok, mountain/molehill sh#t that causes people who are generally sympathetic to the aim, to dismiss you as a whackaloon.
16 competitors in each bracket, equal prize money. But you need to bitch, so bitch you will. Grasping at straws and the only one you can come up with is that Thesenga isn't the second coming of Howard Cosell and Kinder's girlfriend isn't the best impromptu public speaker. The horror of it all!
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lubbockclimber
Trad climber
lubbock,tx
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Aug 14, 2013 - 03:12pm PT
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The whole thing is stupid
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 14, 2013 - 03:25pm PT
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I see way more man nipples at the crag than woman nipples. I find that very sexist and very offensive.
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 14, 2013 - 06:40pm PT
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Yeah, 30'+ solos over deep water... why would anyone who enjoys climbing on rocks care about that?
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Degaine
climber
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Aug 15, 2013 - 02:12am PT
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The OP’s post/blog article is poorly written and unclear. Given comments by those who were there who confirmed that there was indeed equality between the sexes with regard to the competitors, I’m surprised she hasn’t edited or simply pulled the article. That the emcees were unprofessional and not up to the task is another story.
I also find it a bit dubious for one event organizer criticizing another event organizer in this way.
There’s definitely sexism in climbing, but I fail to see the sexism in the aforementioned event. Energy would be better spent addressing idiotic posts like blahblah’s that still bring up Lynn’s small fingers 20 years after her amazing feat.
Blahblah wrote:
The "many instances" you refer to is actually one thing: women with tiny fingers can climb at least some thin cracks that most men cannnot.
Dude, what an idiotic thing to write. If men get to use that excuse for not being able to climb what Lynn has climbed, does that mean that Lynn get’s to use here 5’1” stature as an excuse to not have sent climbs that guys a foot taller have sent? Lynn freed the Nose, a ground breaking feat in our small world of rock climbing. Other world class climbers couldn’t and/or haven’t, period, full stop, end of story, no excuses for those not up to the challenge.
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Degaine
climber
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Aug 15, 2013 - 02:13am PT
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Post wrote:
It's their choice to do that, not yours. The judgement in your post is incredibly hypocritical. Empowerment means choice,and then you belittle the choice.
Be careful with the whole notion of choice. In many Western European countries, Muslim women claim that wearing a head scarf or a veil is a choice, yet this practice is clearly misogynistic.
However, Tioga’s post is way off base given: a) climbing mags show just about as many men climbing without t-shirts on, and b) the women I climb with wear the climbing tanks/bras for freedom of movement similar to men not wearing a t-shirt while climbing.
Of course like many athletic human beings, people go shirtless / climb in a climbing bra to get tan, to show off for others, etc., and people also go to climbing gyms for the social aspect to meet (meat?) others, where’s the problem?
That’s not to say there’s not sexism in climbing, but tioga’s comment and the poorly written post/blog article aren’t it.
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Degaine
climber
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Aug 15, 2013 - 02:33am PT
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Hi tioga,
Out of curiosity, what personal issues do I have?
Otherwise, I fail to see where I attacked you personally. I criticized your post that’s it, and made no comment about you personally. It’s right there for you to read, “Tioga’s post is way off base…”
P.S. To add that if you actually read both of my posts above, you would have seen that I twice wrote that there's sexism in climbing.
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 15, 2013 - 08:08am PT
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Falling into water is aid.
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Port
Trad climber
San Diego
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Aug 15, 2013 - 08:38am PT
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Btw, been to Planet Granite in Sunnyvale...the hell of a meat market that the place is.. it's more like a rave party after 5.30pm!
Sounds like fun!
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 15, 2013 - 11:29am PT
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30+ foot solos on some blue plastic thingy ... why would anyone who enjoys climbing on rocks care about that?
That is not psicobloc, that was the competition.
And even if I did care, the name is still ghey.
Ah yes, you big bad ass Merkins, stink-buggin your way up chossy 5.8 slabs with your cams and widgets, tell those silly Euros that soloing sh#t you couldn't aid your way up is "ghey."
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patrick compton
Trad climber
van
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Aug 15, 2013 - 12:11pm PT
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euro-fagg ghey azz spurt climbers now think they is fish
will kids now learn to climb in surfer shorts?! where iz it all headed?
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Dr. Christ
Mountain climber
State of Mine
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Aug 15, 2013 - 12:24pm PT
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It can't be worse than lycra
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ladyscarlett
Trad climber
SF Bay Area, California
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Aug 15, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
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Oh dear...you Obviously haven't seen the Lycra lingerie that I've seen! :)
But it sounds to me like this wont change until we make it ALL ABOUT SEX!!!! Show the best and sexy of genders and sexuality.
Sexy, skimpy outfits are required, and sex appeal is part of the scoring...way more straight up than 'artistic aesthetic.
Each event has a different required outfit...swimsuit, underwear, strip climb, etc....
Sounds like the best way to deal with this is not to take sex/gender completely out of the pic (that sounds stupid...I like looking and hawt men and ladies!) is to put more sex into every part!!!
Hehehe, can't wait for this one....I'll have my camera and extra batteries fer sure!!!
Cheers
LS
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