retro bolting- colorado

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 20 of total 536 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 24, 2013 - 10:43am PT
Ok time to bring this to the ST:

a "bold" route done in 1988 has been retro bolted, without the consent of the F.A party...
Its a bummer when i see these things happen as it seems to degrade the effort of the FA party and weaken the standards set back in the day, when we had less advanced gear, shoes, no gyms to train in etc.. todays climber should have no problem stepping up to the plate and giving it an honest go instead of creating short cuts to make an ascent...

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/archangel/108240564#a_108254896

I have drilled plenty of bolts, on the lead, on rappel, some bold routes, some well protected.. but i have never added bolts to someone else's route, not even on the Muir Wall. Come on people, go find virgin rock to enjoy the thrills of an FA, but please leave the standards of yesterday intact.
kurt
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jul 24, 2013 - 10:51am PT

I've come to realize over time.. not every route needs to be "safe". Hell some routes don't ever need to be repeated.. There's millions of miles of stone out there to climb without messing with someone elses route.
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:08am PT
Trad route now dumbed down sport route,
The nerve of some peoples children!!!
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:25am PT
Not only does the child piss on others accomplishments, he even questions whether they did them in the first place:

Reportedly freed by Thom Byrne in 1988, Archangel remained largely ignored until 2013. If Byrne freed it, his ascent was extremely bold.


.12c, not exactly an Earth-shattering grade these days (although I'd love to be able to climb that grade right now!). But to question whether it was even freed, because it would have been too hard, adds to the incredulousness action of the dim-wit.
Chim-Chim

climber
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:26am PT
So the retrobolter questions the first ascentionist even freed the climb in 88', then proceeds to shape it in a way that suits his skill set. Lame as Notsocoloradan, and a braggart to boot. Dan Kennedy
Randisi

Social climber
Dalian, Liaoning
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:28am PT
"Clipping is fun on this route."

Just about says it all...
FrankZappa

Trad climber
Hankster's crew
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:32am PT
Yup, I had the same sentiments when I saw it on MP as well.
Nothing new for BoCan, or Dream-your-a-hard-climber-Canyon, though.
I've given up and gotten used to it. It's just the direction that climbing seems to be going; no more room for new bolted routes, might as well retro-bolt the ones nobody ever does.

Edit:^^^ You could compare this to Double Cross if it now had 14 bolts running up it. Not really the same thing....
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:38am PT
When questioned about run outs during the early sport craze and "safe" routes, Mark Wilford was quoted as saying:

"Safe isn't one of the reasons I started climbing. Why don't we just bulldoze all these mountains down so we can all be safe?"
WBraun

climber
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:43am PT
Stupid Americans do not understand that one must always be safe no matter what.

Whether one runs out 80 feet with no pro, free solos or clips multiple bolts.

The bottom line is still, to be safe in all endeavors ......

Safety is relative!
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:44am PT
So I ask this, did the climb really get "done" in 88....

If it is a bold climb, with general knowlege that it really has been free climbed. Than the RETRO is wrong.

But some climbs that have been "climbed" are still in question if this is true or not. Look at some of the more questionable climbs in Southern California... Refiners Fire ... 14B, heck there was $10,000 riding on someone climbing that free, so if one day it gets retro bolted and freed, might not be a big deal.

On the other hand if the EDGE gets retro-bolted there will be hell to pay.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 24, 2013 - 11:57am PT
So I ask this, did the climb really get "done" in 88....


There are a LOT of routes that fall into that category.

I guess we are now released from the responsibility to actually find out?

Hell, a couple of damn good climbers in Oregon actually went to the trouble to contact me about some REALLY obscure routes of mine from the late 70's. Imagine that.
locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:08pm PT


Someone also retrobolted "Just a Touch"...

Fuking idiots!!!...
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 24, 2013 - 12:10pm PT
any way you look at it its a bummer. dumbing down the sport for another blog post.
folks need to look outside the front range, there are plenty of new routes to be had, just have to drive and hike a bit.
can this post get to 100? 200? 10,000?
HAHAHAHAAAAAA..
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:25pm PT
How Ryan Braun of the retro Bolter.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
Survival....I think there are climbs that are in question if they ever truly, were climbed.

Hard to condem retro, if it was really some sort of project.

Any CO locals who have knowledge if this one??

The MP folks are silent on this one.

maybe the new standard in CO, thats why none are to pissed.

locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:43pm PT

"maybe the new standard in CO, thats why none are to pissed."...

There does seem to be a decent bit of it taking place...

A little surprised that I don't read much about people chopping bolts here...

Perhaps you're correct...
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
This seems to be a trend. History ignored or forgotten. I've had several of my routes from the 70's and early 80's retro bolted on rappel and erased, renamed, and new "first ascents" recorded over them. They weren't of earth shattering difficulty, just 5.10-11, but you had to think to accomplish them with a margin of safety. The illusion of safety- from cradle to grave.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
Soon to be Nipple suckling Liberal
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:53pm PT
I think someone should return it to the standard it was set in..

Some nutless wunder decides "IF it was actually done>?" Like the BY is just a myth???


Piss poor performance all the way around... Someone send the retro bolter a bottle of calcium pills sos he can develop a spine...

locker

Social climber
Some Rehab in Bolivia
Jul 24, 2013 - 12:55pm PT


"should be about cheering for others you think do proud work"...




"YAY!!!...

I'm so PROUD of you for retrobolting the Bachar/Yarian"
...


;-)

FrankZappa

Trad climber
Hankster's crew
Jul 24, 2013 - 01:03pm PT
A little surprised that I don't read much about people chopping bolts here...

Just doesn't happen 'round here. Climbers just shrug their shoulders and say that the route should be chopped, but nobody does it. Climbers say silly things like "if you don't like the bolts don't clip them" or "my personal protest is to not clip the bolt". Similarly, "my personal protest to chipped holds is to not touch that hold." Oh so brave....

Really what this boils down to is did the FA/FFA give permission to retro-bolt? Anyone?
Messages 1 - 20 of total 536 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews