Hardest 5.7 in Yosemite Valley?


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Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 18, 2013 - 06:26pm PT
+10 for Donnini

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Apr 18, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
How about Zanzabar Dihedral Independance pass? do they still call that 5.7?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 07:19pm PT
The rating should guide people to the correct climb and not be the defining feature of a climb.
People who are so pleased about how stiff their crag is should get out and travel more.

Not the point of this particular thread! But yes, agreed.
gonzo chemist

Fort Collins, CO
Apr 18, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
"...and then moved West where they got soft."

I don't consider anything in Vedauwoo to be soft.


edit: Paul Roehl,
Goliath is a GREAT route! I climbed it a couple years ago, and I'd never even seen anybody on it. Ever since, I only ever saw one pair of climbers on it.

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Apr 18, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
Not in The Valley, but an interesting aside in Josh, Lynn Hill and Tarbuster did this route in Johnson Canyon they called Spanish Bayonet, they were kids then. They called it 5.7. Consensus these days is about 5.9.

A quick glance at MP to verify that consensus also reveals that Larry Stone and Jeff Sewell were also in on that action.

Anyway it's a great Indian Cove route, and with Rattlesnake closed it gives them that like an approach somethin' fun to do...

(It's one of the harder 5.7s in JT)

Social climber
State of decay
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
Positivily 4th Street in the Ditch. And I'm prolly the only idiot here who has scumed up the thing. And I mean scum. The bat quano was slicker than,well....bat sh#t.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 18, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
been there...
the first time I was in Positively 4th Street I remember approaching that flake and wondering where all the stuff came from, putting my hands up in the crack elicited a commotion of squeaks, looking up a large colony of bats were scurrying out of my way... I understood where the stuff came from... it was bat sh#t.

You climb up and around the flake, heading for the bats... they start a squeaky retreat, but you wonder which of those little suckers has rabies... and is crazy enough to give you a nip... none, as it turns out.

Trad climber
Apr 19, 2013 - 02:43am PT
Direct route on the column
Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
Apr 19, 2013 - 07:03am PT
It depends. Are you climbing in klettershoes, tennies/Converse, blue Robbins, barefoot, EBs, PAs, sticky sticky rubber, with or without chalk, did you get up on the right side or the wrong side of the tent, what did you do the night before?

I used to free solo the first pitch of Jamcrack, up and down, as a warm-up, and I never found it that difficult (and I am not a great climber), but firstly, I was young, and secondly I'd probably sh*t me pants just following it nowadays. In Dalkey Quarry there is Street Fighter HVS/5.8ish. I followed it recently, boy was I scared.
On-Site Flasher 69

Sport climber
Apr 19, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
During my first year of climbing in Yosemite Valley, I was convinced that I must work through the grades in order to make progress. My first lead was Uncle Fanny's, and boy was that a rude awaking. Thinking back, it was a solid first lead, and it made most other 5.7 routes seem easy. Although, on my road through 5.7's, many challenges still awaited. Most notable, first pitch of beggers buttress(the chimmeny), also pygmy pillar 5.7 route, and La cosita left.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 19, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
I'm glad to read I'm not the only one who considered Uncle Fanny non-trivial. It didn't help my ego to learn that the first ascent was led fourth class.

The left side of La Cosita, whose first ascent was done by my former law partner, Wally Upton, has to be about the steepest 5.7 in the Valley.


.....in a single wide......
Apr 19, 2013 - 02:08pm PT
Hey Kris- -- I don't think we ever really considered Spanish Bayonet a 5.7.
Prolly 5.8+ was how it felt that day on the limp end.

The route to it's right felt like 5.9 to me on the sharp end, but got down-rated to 5.7 alas...

And again Kudos to Tarbuster for opening up our eyes to the possibilities in Johnson Canyon.


Big Wall climber
Lakeview, OR
May 9, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
Did snake dike unroped in 1975. Was scarier coming down the cables.

Trad climber
May 9, 2013 - 03:02pm PT
The hardest 5.7 I've ever jumped on is Captain Hook, Suicide Rock, Buttress of Cracks Left Sude. A slippery start. BTW, Suicide Rock is a fun place.

Upd. Hernia 5.8 (the same place) is fun. With a hard slab climb TR option from the same anchor.

May 9, 2013 - 03:10pm PT
La Cosita Left nearly shattered my hopes for doing any of the real routes on El Cap...

Social climber
Joshua Tree
May 9, 2013 - 03:19pm PT
I've already said p1 DNB, but to weigh in on Positively 4th...did that one warm summer afternoon with my bro Andy. We flipped for leads, I chose evens. He started up p1, was a little slow and hesitant and I'm like "WTF dude, just run it to a stance, it's 5.7 or something." Then I followed the pitch found it WAY more slippery and polished than it looked. p2, the "5.9" bit (which is literally about 1 face move), didn't really feel any harder than the "5.7" on p1.

The first 15' or so of Sacherer Cracker is kinda awkward and burl for 5.7

Trad climber
May 9, 2013 - 03:23pm PT
Positively 4th street 1st pitch flake almost shat me out the first 3 times.
Captain...or Skully

May 9, 2013 - 04:23pm PT
Donini is crusty, but wise.

May 9, 2013 - 05:16pm PT
v-try overhang bypass on lower cathedral. some holds fell off. i'd call it solid 5.8+/5.9.

Trad climber
May 9, 2013 - 06:01pm PT
A long-time climber told me there used to be a tree at the now-crux of after 6? He got on the route for the first time post-tree a few years ago and got an unpleasant surprise.

That's my vote for the hardest, but I haven't done some of the other contenders.
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