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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 18, 2013 - 09:06pm PT
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Not in The Valley, but an interesting aside in Josh, Lynn Hill and Tarbuster did this route in Johnson Canyon they called Spanish Bayonet, they were kids then. They called it 5.7. Consensus these days is about 5.9.
A quick glance at MP to verify that consensus also reveals that Larry Stone and Jeff Sewell were also in on that action.
Anyway it's a great Indian Cove route, and with Rattlesnake closed it gives them that like an approach somethin' fun to do...
(It's one of the harder 5.7s in JT)
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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Apr 18, 2013 - 10:13pm PT
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Positivily 4th Street in the Ditch. And I'm prolly the only idiot here who has scumed up the thing. And I mean scum. The bat quano was slicker than,well....bat sh#t.
TY
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 18, 2013 - 10:41pm PT
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been there...
the first time I was in Positively 4th Street I remember approaching that flake and wondering where all the stuff came from, putting my hands up in the crack elicited a commotion of squeaks, looking up a large colony of bats were scurrying out of my way... I understood where the stuff came from... it was bat sh#t.
You climb up and around the flake, heading for the bats... they start a squeaky retreat, but you wonder which of those little suckers has rabies... and is crazy enough to give you a nip... none, as it turns out.
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Pie
Trad climber
So-Cal
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Apr 19, 2013 - 02:43am PT
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Direct route on the column
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Apr 19, 2013 - 07:03am PT
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It depends. Are you climbing in klettershoes, tennies/Converse, blue Robbins, barefoot, EBs, PAs, sticky sticky rubber, with or without chalk, did you get up on the right side or the wrong side of the tent, what did you do the night before?
I used to free solo the first pitch of Jamcrack, up and down, as a warm-up, and I never found it that difficult (and I am not a great climber), but firstly, I was young, and secondly I'd probably sh*t me pants just following it nowadays. In Dalkey Quarry there is Street Fighter HVS/5.8ish. I followed it recently, boy was I scared.
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On-Site Flasher 69
Sport climber
Riverside
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Apr 19, 2013 - 01:42pm PT
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During my first year of climbing in Yosemite Valley, I was convinced that I must work through the grades in order to make progress. My first lead was Uncle Fanny's, and boy was that a rude awaking. Thinking back, it was a solid first lead, and it made most other 5.7 routes seem easy. Although, on my road through 5.7's, many challenges still awaited. Most notable, first pitch of beggers buttress(the chimmeny), also pygmy pillar 5.7 route, and La cosita left.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 19, 2013 - 01:54pm PT
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I'm glad to read I'm not the only one who considered Uncle Fanny non-trivial. It didn't help my ego to learn that the first ascent was led fourth class.
The left side of La Cosita, whose first ascent was done by my former law partner, Wally Upton, has to be about the steepest 5.7 in the Valley.
John
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chiindi
Big Wall climber
Lakeview, OR
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Did snake dike unroped in 1975. Was scarier coming down the cables.
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pell
Trad climber
Sunnyvale
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The hardest 5.7 I've ever jumped on is Captain Hook, Suicide Rock, Buttress of Cracks Left Sude. A slippery start. BTW, Suicide Rock is a fun place.
Upd. Hernia 5.8 (the same place) is fun. With a hard slab climb TR option from the same anchor.
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slidingmike
climber
CA
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La Cosita Left nearly shattered my hopes for doing any of the real routes on El Cap...
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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I've already said p1 DNB, but to weigh in on Positively 4th...did that one warm summer afternoon with my bro Andy. We flipped for leads, I chose evens. He started up p1, was a little slow and hesitant and I'm like "WTF dude, just run it to a stance, it's 5.7 or something." Then I followed the pitch found it WAY more slippery and polished than it looked. p2, the "5.9" bit (which is literally about 1 face move), didn't really feel any harder than the "5.7" on p1.
The first 15' or so of Sacherer Cracker is kinda awkward and burl for 5.7
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RMLeahy
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Positively 4th street 1st pitch flake almost shat me out the first 3 times.
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crackaholic
climber
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v-try overhang bypass on lower cathedral. some holds fell off. i'd call it solid 5.8+/5.9.
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phile
Trad climber
SF, CA
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A long-time climber told me there used to be a tree at the now-crux of after 6? He got on the route for the first time post-tree a few years ago and got an unpleasant surprise.
That's my vote for the hardest, but I haven't done some of the other contenders.
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Jim Pettigrew
Social climber
Crowley Lake, CA
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Second pitch of Triple direct on Reed's! All 5.7;)
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John Ely
Trad climber
DC
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The North Dome Regular Route used to be, still is in some places, called 5.7. For long and sustained, and with all kinds of new and strange moves and some routefinding, I certainly wouldn't recommend it for a new 5.7 leader, even one who could manage some of the one pitch delights mentioned above.
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The Compruta
Trad climber
New Britain, CT
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May 10, 2013 - 05:25am PT
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I've done most of the pitches mentioned and I'd have to say the beginning of Doggie Diversions on Camp 4 Wall is the hardest 5.7 I've been on in the Valley but I guess it depends on how comfortable they are in a squeeze chimney.
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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May 10, 2013 - 07:15am PT
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The first pitch of the DNB?
The mandatory free pitch off of Awahnee Ledge WFLT?
The final slab pitch of S. Face of North Dome
The grease pitch on After 6
The Ear of the Salathe
The 2nd pitch of Higher Cathedral Spire Regular Route - Never been able to even figure out the easy far left traversing variation.
Uncle Fanny
The "4th class" approach to WFLT
The DNB pitch is probably the most memorable after a few years. We should just up it to 5.12 to keep the traffic down. Oh yeah all the anchors are chopped too now or extra high gravity bad!!!
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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May 10, 2013 - 02:25pm PT
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Actually I got your answer by far. The South Face of North Dome route in entirety is probably the best sandbag 5.7 full adventure day to be had in Yosemite. Great route, no cake walk, all types of climbing, and a few fun but not bad runouts on a few sections for the grade.
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